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Thread: Newbie vectra buying advise

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    I don't have a Vectra , but am seriously considering buying one. So I would like to get as genned up as possible in readiness to swoop in and get a bargain.

    My target Vectra would be a high mileage ex-fleet Elite 1.9 16V cdti. I would even have an automatic but its not a critical factor.

    Mileage doesn't worry me. Its the trick of buying with the 'right' high mileage such that all the major jobs have been done , eg clutch . exhaust , timing belt/pulleys , brake discs etc.

    So then....bring it on and let me know what to look for and what to avoid. I'll start with my own queries :-

    1. If I bought a manual, this would be my 1st DMF clutched car. How long do they last and whats the approx cost for a replacement job at a private garage.
    2. I've seen a few Auto's going cheap in ebay. Maybe it was coincidence, but could I be right in assuming Vectra's have fragile auto boxes.
    3. Is the 1.9 16V cdti a good lump, or should I stick to the older 2.2 DTI

    4. Any notably expensive jobs ( DMF clutch noted ) that I need to check have been sorted on a potential car, such as fancy belt pulleys , pumps/motors. I read something about butterfly swirls ( whatever they are! ) and that the 1.9 engine is actually a Fiat lump?

    So if I spot an 150k miled ex fleet car, help me come up with a checklist . What would be considered a good high mileage zone eg 100k , 120k , 140k ?

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    Full Member neverlandandy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Insignia Elite Nav

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 2.0 cdti

    Year : 2012

    Mileage : 9k

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    firstly welcome aboard mate im not the one to help you but someone will be along soon enough that can

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    Welcome to the site!

    What's your budget? How many miles do you intend doing in the car annually?

    Your answers to your questions:
    1. They should last the same length of time as the clutch, so it's worth doing them both at the same time. Some folks have had early DMF failures, though. Usually around the 30k mark.

    2. Can't say I've heard that problem.

    3. I had a 1.9CDTi in my Astra, and to be honest I wouldn't buy another. Fantastic perforimng engine, but EGR and inlet swirl flaps are an expensive fix (£500 for parts alone, plus 3-4 hours labour).

    4. Yeah, as above, check the swirl flaps have been done, check the EGR has been replaced, check the ABS works (I've seen a few high milers with fried ABS computers). Also check rear tyre wear, because you don't particularly want to replace all the rear suspension parts.


    Personally I'm really happy with my 1.8VVT - I do 22-24k a year and the Vectra is easily working out cheaper to run than the diesel Astra was.

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    Thanks so far.

    My budget is pretty low ~£3.5k I know there's plenty of base models around for that, but to find a higher spec unit means a trade-off with high mileage.

    My present runner is a 110HDI Xsara with 144k miles, before that I had a Laguna with 177K miles....and before that I had an Audi-80 TDI with 266k miles. The one thing I learnt about diesels is whilst many of the ancils fall off ...the engines just keep plodding along providing they are regularly serviced.

    I do about 22k a year, so want about 60<>70k mileage ( trouble-free ) out of a Vectra. I don't see the point of paying thousands for a low mileage one as it will be worthless when I'm done with it. My ideal scenario would be to find one thats just had its clutch/DMF sorted and also a fresh timing belt c/w pulleys/tensioners.

    I'd much rather stick with a diesel as I prefer torque over revs. I can't be bothered with all the agro about worn valve seals and ignition systems. Diesels are much more simple to maintain.

    So back to the post:-
    -Is this swirl flaps / EGR problem specific ONLY to the 1.9 16V ( i.e the 120PS 8V is not affected ) ?
    -How can you tell its been done ? Just have service history to prove?
    -How would I spot a knackered ABS CPU ? I figured any car with permanently flashing ECU lights would not make me commit to buy anyway.
    - What is the recommended mileage for a timing belt ? 60K 80K 100K ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ebod View Post
    Thanks so far.

    My budget is pretty low ~£3.5k I know there's plenty of base models around for that, but to find a higher spec unit means a trade-off with high mileage.

    What is the recommended mileage for a timing belt ? 60K 80K 100K ?

    Youve opened up a right can of worms on the cambelt issues, Most people on here get them changed VERY early, I had mine changed at the dealers reccomended interval with no issues (80,000) all cars will be dfferent

    As a general rule of thumb, if the mileage is close the service limit for the cambelt and you have no proof its been replaced, get it done asap

    Are you sure you want the 1.9 diesel? From what i can see, there isnt a massive difference in the MPG from the 1.9 to the 3.0V6 variant

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    Quote Originally Posted by Guyver1 View Post
    Youve opened up a right can of worms on the cambelt issues

    Okay now the post has started to get some momentum.

    So the dealer belt change is 80K ? is this general or specific to only one engine type. I'd prefer a 1.9cdti but wouldn't refuse a 2.2dti if the deal was good.

    The first belt change is often 'just' that, a belt change. Its the second one that needs to have been done with new pulleys/tensioners ( & water pump ). I want to catch one thats just been done full monty style rather than a £20 quid belt.

    ..."why not a 3.0V6 ?" I would like to go round corners thats why ( the 2.9 DOHC-16V 4-cyl diesel in my Kia Sedona weighs over 250 kilos ! )

    ...another question .Does anyone know a VX telephone number where I can request the service records on a potential car, EG to check if swirl flaps have been sorted on a 16V ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ebod View Post
    Okay now the post has started to get some momentum.

    So the dealer belt change is 80K ? is this general or specific to only one engine type. I'd prefer a 1.9cdti but wouldn't refuse a 2.2dti if the deal was good.

    The first belt change is often 'just' that, a belt change. Its the second one that needs to have been done with new pulleys/tensioners ( & water pump ). I want to catch one thats just been done full monty style rather than a £20 quid belt.

    ..."why not a 3.0V6 ?" I would like to go round corners thats why ( the 2.9 DOHC-16V 4-cyl diesel in my Kia Sedona weighs over 250 kilos ! )

    ...another question .Does anyone know a VX telephone number where I can request the service records on a potential car, EG to check if swirl flaps have been sorted on a 16V ?
    I got the 3.0V6 auto, and there arent many cars that will out corner me, good tyres and sports suspension(standard suspension that is), no problems atall

    80,000 miles is what VX say the V6 should be changed at

    as for the pulleys and water pump, a lot of guys on here change them as just a matter of course, Only reason I didnt, was cos i HAD to take mine to the main dealer as no back street mechanic would touch the V6, the tools they require would cost more than the job would

    If you get the chassis number, and go to a main dealer, they will tell you what work has been done

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