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Thread: Had MOT today

  1. #1
    Regular Member danlat1415's Avatar
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    Default Had MOT today

    I had my MOT today, and it passed, but the engineer did inform me that there was a little play in the steering wheel. (which i'd noticed for a few months)
    He said it was probably caused by the bearing on one side of the wheel rack? I was listening to him, but didn't fully take it in. I'm not sure if he was talking about the front or rear. He did mention the end of some rods go under the boot while trying to describe it, but I got confused.

    He said it was a common fault on a lot of cars, and nothing to worry about.

    But I have noticed the play in the steering wheel, and it does concern me, because it affects the handling when turning corners, and going round aroundabouts, even at slow/normal speeds. it feels like the car is seriously understeering, and like i'm going to swerve off the road, even if I put full lock on the wheel..


    Any suggestions what the engineer meant? and if I can fix it?


    Thanks
    Dan

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    Ex Vec-C Admin & Founder GARY3306's Avatar
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    Default

    From your description, it sounds like he was on about the inner track rod ends in the steering rack. Yea it is a common fault but easily and cheaply repaired. Obviously do it as soon as you can though
    [SIGPIC]VX<font color=Red>R</font> with added Courtenay <img src=https://www.vectra-c.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.png border=0 alt= title=Big Grin class=inlineimg />

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    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    yep, JUST what gary said....

    &#163;25 a side for bits... poor access but not hard to do....

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    Regular Member danlat1415's Avatar
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    Can anyone go into detail in this?

    I didn't quite understand what the engineer was saying, and it seems that you guys know what he was talking about, and roughtly how much it costs...

    Can you just explain briefly what it is, and how I could fix it?


    Thanks
    Dan

  5. #5
    Regular Member wanna veccy's Avatar
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    hi fella it has only been a week since i changed my steering tie rods and track rod ends. it aint the easiest job m8 but if there are two of you u will get the job done depending on ur ability about 1hr per side so about 2hrs. u will need a hammer for knocking the old track rod end out. two medium sized adjustable spanners one to grip the rack so it doesnt spin and the other to grip the tie rod to loosen. i think a 19mm spanner for the track rod end bolt and not sure but i think the bolt connecting the tie rod to the track rod end is also a 19mm. here is were i got my parts from also u can get ur track rod ends off these guys http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-VECTR...1%7C240%3A1318

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    Regular Member danlat1415's Avatar
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    Default

    I've emailed the guy on Ebay, and got all 4 parts for a discount hopefully this will fix the problem.

    Cheers for the help guys.

    wanna_veccy - is there any chance you could get a picture of their location on the vehicle?

    How hard are they to access? do I need the car up on a ramp, or is a jack and axle stands ok?


    Thanks

  7. #7
    Regular Member wanna veccy's Avatar
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    sorry it taken so long to get back to u m8. but all i did was put the car on axle stands and removed the wheelslike i say u will need someone to hold the flat on the driver side tie rod to stop the steering rack from twisting.will try get a picture for you.if this is any help if u look at the wheel hub from the passenger side the parts u are looking at are at the right hand side of the wheel hub and the tie rod is the long pole like part that goes towards the engine.if u look from above the engine down past the abs module you can see the part and the gaiter protecting it from road grime. this veiw is the best point at which u should attack the part at as this route offers more leverage of the adjustable spanner. but it still ****** tight tho.

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    Regular Member wanna veccy's Avatar
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    Default

    right then m8 i have just been out in the freezing cold for these so bl00dy better be worth it lol the pics not in order sorry m8 but easy to make sense of.
    below in the yellow box is the track rod end in the red box this is the tie rod and the gaitor which protects the ball joint. before u remove the track rod end loosen the nut on the end of the track rod end shown in this picture cause it is a right ***** to remove when the track rod end is off.

    next track rod end in yellow and tie rod in red.

    image below shows u the track rod end bolt which needs to be taken off then knocked upwards out of the hub to remove.

    below is a close up of the gaitor from above the engine.

    below is above engine bay yellow circle shows the tierods position, blue marker shows battery cover and orange shows the engine cover.

  9. #9
    Regular Member danlat1415's Avatar
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    Default

    Cheers VERY much for those!!
    i now have a better understanding of where they are etc, and what to look for. Hopefully will get it sorted on Saturday, so probably expect some more questions


    Thanks
    Dan

  10. #10
    Regular Member danlat1415's Avatar
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    Hi.
    the parts arrived yesterday, and I'm going to tackle it tomorrow.
    now that i've got the picture and the actual parts, I understand how it all connects etc.


    I do have a couple of questions before I start though...
    When removing the track rod ENDS, do I need to count the turns it takes for it to come off, so I can put it back on exactly the same? Or is it the tie rod itself that I need to count the turns?

    Also I'm confident in removing the track rod ends, but I'm not too sure about the tie rods. I can see from the replacement part I've received - that it screws in at the end covered by the gaitor. Do I need to hold anything while I unscrew the tie rod, and do I need to count the turns on this..?


    Thanks
    Dan

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