What to look for when buying a Vectra C

[Tom Williams]

Hi All

I am considering a car change to a Vectra C Estate probably in the 1.9 CDTi 120 version.

At the moment I think I am likely to find a 55 / 06 reg for my budget hoping for something with around 70k miles if I can.

What are the common points of failure on these models / common areas of wear and tear that will need doing in time?

Just want to know where to look and what to listen out for when I get round to looking.

Thanks in advance

Tom

[John35]

IMHO the engine is strong. Look/listen for the usual suspension noises and DMF rattle. Should pull strongly. Slightly notchly gearbox but they all do that. Good choice as I think they are a great car. Only downside is that they have a dpf....

[Tom Williams]

DPF?

[rushy]

Diesel particle filter mate.

[John35]

Not a problem really as long as you hit the motorway occasionally.

[Tom Williams]

Yeah should hit a motorway for a bit once a week or so.

Is it worth looking at the 150 model?

[John35]

Yeah should hit a motorway for a bit once a week or so.

Is it worth looking at the 150 model?

I will be shot for saying this......NO

[Tom Williams]

I will be shot for saying this......NO

Having had a read around I am expecting there are reasons for this.

[mparks8590]

yes dpf is a pain,

engine is strong but if you buy it, i'd be looking to clean egr, boost and MAF sensor straight away + a routine service

clutch and DMF are expensive to repair so give it a good test drive, dmf can sound like a bag or spanners at start up

i'd be checking regular oil changes were done throughout its life

then at that milage, brakes, although quite cheap to fix and even upgrade

suspension for broken springs, arb bushes , front strut bearings, generally the whole front suspension

rear control arms and rear arb bushes

generally check all fluid levels

check startup smoke from cold then take it for a drive and see how it goes

it should feel good between 2 and 4000 revs.

check any warning lights that stay on


150 is good if you fancy a manifold change now and again. the gearing of the 120 is better anyway....

takes your pick, the only thing i'd say is that if you have a DPF its no use using it around town, it will need a regen on schedule to keep it at its best

[Tom Williams]

yes dpf is a pain,

engine is strong but if you buy it, i'd be looking to clean egr, boost and MAF sensor straight away + a routine service

clutch and DMF are expensive to repair so give it a good test drive, dmf can sound like a bag or spanners at start up

i'd be checking regular oil changes were done throughout its life

then at that milage, brakes, although quite cheap to fix and even upgrade

suspension for broken springs, arb bushes , front strut bearings, generally the whole front suspension

rear control arms and rear arb bushes

generally check all fluid levels

check startup smoke from cold then take it for a drive and see how it goes

it should feel good between 2 and 4000 revs.

check any warning lights that stay on


150 is good if you fancy a manifold change now and again. the gearing of the 120 is better anyway....

takes your pick, the only thing i'd say is that if you have a DPF its no use using it around town, it will need a regen on schedule to keep it at its best

Thanks, thats good information. I have seen a few 150's on the trader however the 120 is more popular.

I do use motorways and dual carriageways at weekends opposed to weekday use but weekday use does tend to be up to 60mph on national speed limit roads - what sort of use does it need to keep the DPF clear?

Thanks

Tom