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Thread: vectra c 1.9cdti - help car cut out and won't start!

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    confused vectra c 1.9cdti - help car cut out and won't start!

    Hi a newbie here!

    I have a 54 1.9cdti(150). I was going down a bypass this morning and the engine just cut out but I managed to roll off the slip road out for the way. The EML didn't come on weirdly enough. The engine turns over fine but not a whisper of firing up. I checked the pipe from the fuel tank(half full) where it goes into the fuel filter and there was plenty of fuel pumping out. When turning over there is no smoke coming out the back

    Got towed into our works garage. Have changed the fuel filter but still won't fire up. They put the diagnostic on it and it read P0100 Mass or volume air sensor fault. He cancelled this code and tried starting , which it wouldn't do, and then checked again but it said no fault codes available!!

    Any ideas where to go next? Would be most appreciated

    Cheers
    Jeff

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    Regular Member embo's Avatar
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    sounds like imobilisor problem

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    Regular Member Rapala's Avatar
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    More than likely a silly question but have you checked the timing belt.

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    try unplugging the MAF sensor then firing her up!

    see if that works

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    Thanks for the replies!

    Timing belt fine

    Tried unplugging MAF sensor but still no good

    How can I test whether the immobiliser is causing a problem. Wouldn't it bring up a fault code? It locks and unlocks fine.

    Checked fuel coming out of common rail

    It is in our fleet maintenance workshops who work on these a lot as they do the police cars - and even they are stumped!!

    Cheers
    Jeff

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    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    you say the cambelt is fine, then i presume they have removed the air box L/h engine mount & L/h engine covers!!, this would be the only way to check this, Also they have checked for fuel at the common rail & injectors (what happened), It must be electrical if the belt & timing is ok, you have fuel, power & heat (glow plugs ok), one option could be cam/crank sensors making the car think its out of time. ASK the person who read the codes if it said they were 'present' OR 'not present', IF they were present & were cleared the car will not start!, the only option will be to try (from another car 'same engine') replacing the maf (sensor by air box) & the map(sensor on rear of inlet manifold), & go from there.
    Last edited by the-wizard; 17th November 2010 at 16:28.

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    Eek

    Quote Originally Posted by the-wizard View Post
    you say the cambelt is fine, then i presume they have removed the air box L/h engine mount & L/h engine covers!!, this would be the only way to check this, Also they have checked for fuel at the common rail & injectors (what happened), It must be electrical if the belt & timing is ok, you have fuel, power & heat (glow plugs ok), one option could be cam/crank sensors making the car think its out of time. ASK the person who read the codes if it said they were 'present' OR 'not present', IF they were present & were cleared the car will not start!, the only option will be to try (from another car 'same engine') replacing the maf (sensor by air box) & the map(sensor on rear of inlet manifold), & go from there.
    Thank you 'the wizard' - i wish you could magic this one!

    I couldn't get to the workshops this evening before they went home so don't know the current status or ask any questions. I don't know whether they just assumed the cambelt was ok because she was turning over fine and with compression and there was no noises when she stopped or whilst turning over. Again with the fuel I think they just loosened one of the injector pipes where it exits the common rail and turned it over and diesel came out. What I'm not sure because i can't ask till the morning is at what pressure? If it was not particularly high I would assume then that there is an issue with the high pressure side of things?

    When you say 'IF they were present & were cleared the car will not start!' are you saying that whatever the code was read if it was still present but then cleared the car will automatically not start? and if so how come it will not raise the same code/s when you try to start it? I am beginning to wonder wether their reader is not a TECH2? and therefore not pulling up any codes - I shall have to query this with them in the morning!!!

    Cheers
    Jeff

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    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    typical thing!, my sons corsa cut out now & then, i read the codes via op com, crankshaft sensor 'present', cleared the code = non starter!, this is because the car thinks its out of time, when the car wont start its unable to run & diagnose its own problems, the full cambelt inspection is a must to rule it out, i personally (i have the equipment) would put camshaft alighment kit on it to make sure top & bottom are true!, it wouldn't be uncommon for the cdti water pump or tensioner to throw slack into the belt due to one or both being worn (both common faults with the cdti), if is all ok, re check the fuel side, check all fuses to rule out elec supply fault to the pump & common rail supply, check sensors as suggested above if a donor car is available, also a check to the throttle body would be wise, it may have a circuit board failure. will send pm for further assist.

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    ohh kay!! Had the car transferred to a Vauxhall specialist. He has found that the bearing on the water pump failed which in turn caused the timing belt to slip!!!! I take it all back Rapala and The Wizard - my hat is well and truly eaten. As there was no horrible noises when it cut out he is going to fit a belt kit and water pump and give it a go.....I am clinging to a razor blade of hope here. If not then obviously the valves etc are stuffed. My question is at what point do I call it a day? Would it be cheaper to get a recon engine.
    Cheers and merry xmas!!

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    Gutted for you. There is a brand new engine advertised on EBay. Almost certainly would be cheaper to buy a second hand engine than get your own one fixed if the timing belt has gone. Why do they use belts for this function. Much prefer a chain. Also you need to consider that a 2004 Vectra is probably only worth 2-3K, so it may not be worth repairing at all.

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