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Thread: Vectra 1.9 CDTI [150] performance issues

  1. #11
    Regular Member gary k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithsimmo View Post
    Also need to know the location of the DPF on a Vectra-C [150] if it has one so i can try strip clean and re assembling. Photos would help!
    in the exhaust system, under the handbrake area

  2. #12
    Regular Member keithsimmo's Avatar
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    Default DPF / Update

    Quote Originally Posted by gary k View Post
    in the exhaust system, under the handbrake area

    So Is the DPF strip-able, and cleanable / worth doing?

    Update

    I have received my OBD2 reader today and I had 2 fault codes stored both P2279 "Intake air sys leak".

    The funny thing was on the way home before I had the scanner the "MIL" light had gone off all by itself and the car was terrible to drive! (not so funny)

    Anyway cleared the codes and decided to clean the Boost Sensor (or what i think is the boost sensor anyway, please correct me if I am wrong)

    It was filthy anyway, totally blocked up with soot so could do with a clean. see below (after cleaning).





    Manifold.

    I also had a good check around for any cracked / split pipes but none that are noticeable to me.

    The end result was still no different to the performance, apart from now I have no MIL or Spanner light on.

    Last ditch attempt tomorrow to fix it before it has to go to the garage. I have the 3rd injector wiring mod kit that I will fit tomorrow to see if that resolves the issue. May be see if I can locate the DPF and clean that out too!

    I think I might have to fork out for a EGR valve after all? Just in case anyone know where the cheapest / best place is to order one from? Autovax are out of stock at the moment??

    Any advice welcome in advance before I take on either of these tasks.

    Thanks in advance

    Keith.

  3. #13
    Regular Member keithsimmo's Avatar
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    Default 3rd Injector wiring mod Changed

    Ok so I changed the wiring on the 3rd Injector. (How 2, to follow later) But this has not resolved my issue. Dont know what to do next might have to book it in...

    As I was having a look around at pipes today i noticed some movement in one of them is this normal? It lifts up about 5-6mm and odesnt look like it is fitted correctly? Then again it might be just a breather? Take a look and compare on you cars if you would please. It may be my problem located?



    Pushed as far as it will go in.



    And Pulled out all the way.



    Here is a link to "You Tube" where I posted a quick Video of the movment in the pipe. Is this normal?

    LINK

  4. #14
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    Default pipe movement

    just checked mine,its the same vertical movement.
    have similar issues with my cdti 150 have cleaned egr badly crudded up and was sticking,there was a slight improvement after cleaning,i think the solenoid/motor of egr has been weakend and does not now opperate effectivly if at all idisconected egr power supply end took motor for drive and found there was no difference in performance, ihave egr valve on order from gm march 15due in if you can wait ill let you know the result.

  5. #15
    Regular Member keithsimmo's Avatar
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    Default EGR Valve.

    Thanks for the responce Steve, good to know that its the same on yours or may be that is the problem we are both having? Would be nice to get a third Opinion if anyone can confirm that that is normal?

    I was thinking that it might be my EGR valve it was clogged up but if the soliniod has gone then testing like you have might confirm that it requires replacing. When I tried ordering one from Autovax they were out of stock!

    Where are you getting yours from and how much is it costing you if you dont mind me asking?

    cheers Keith.

  6. #16
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    Default egr valve

    vauhall main dealer 2 weak delivery £119.60 inc +the 2 gaskits £5.00 hth
    steve

  7. #17
    Regular Member keithsimmo's Avatar
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    Default How2 Change the 3rd injector wire

    As promised here is my How 2 on changing the wiring on the 3rd injector. It has been submitted to the How 2 section but requires Admin Authority first.

    I say “How 2” but maybe that should be "How I"

    Anyway 1st of all apologise to "Admin" for not uploading photos to your site I tried but the size and quality that I took the photos were way over the limit of 100k. If I reduced them below the 100k size the images were too small to see. Feel free to copy the images to your site if you want but I thought that it better to have a "How 2" on a popular subject than not have one at all!

    What you will need is:

    1. The field kit wires part number 93189919.
    2. Small flat screw driver
    3. Wire cutters/ Strippers/ Stanley Knife/ Teeth
    4. Soldering Iron and Solder.
    5. Shrink Wrap tube.
    6. Electrical tape.
    7. Patience.
    8. 10 mm Socket



    1st of all order the Kit from the local dealers.


    2nd remove the engine cover by pulling off firmly. Remember to remove the rubbers from the engine and place back on the underside of the cover for fitting later.

    3rd (I made this slightly harder for myself as I wanted to hide the joined wires in the plastic cover that runs below the injectors. If your confident at soldering and have smaller fingers than me it could be done without removing the plastic cover)

    Located the 3rd injector, 3rd from the left of the engine stood facing the car.




    Remove the Clip with the flat head screw driver.



    And Prize and wiggle out.



    Do this to all 4 injectors if you are going to do this the way I done it otherwise skip the steps about removing the cover and move onto the cutting and splicing stages.

    Next undo the 2 10mm bolts holding the Plastic cover in.



    Prise open the plastic shroud around the 3rd injector connector and remove along with the plastic covering around the wires.



    And make a note of which wire goes in which side of the connector so you can rewire this the same way later.



    Now turn over the plastic cover that runs along the front of the engine and carefully prise open the 8 clips that hold it together. This was the most annoying part of the whole thing as I managed to break 3 of them in the process.



    Sorry about the poor quality of the photo.

    Next measure and strip the wires to where you want the join to be, I left plenty of room for me to make mistakes so my join sits between injectors 1 and 2.

    Apply solder to both sides of the wire and make sure that you are going to connect them the correct way around. (The new 2.5 mm wires just push into the new connector but once in will not come out so make sure you get it right first time)



    At this point don’t forget to slide over your heat shrink sleeving.





    Then solder together and shrink the sleeving over the connection carefully with a lighter.



    I the put some electrical tape around the whole lot and stuffed it back inside the plastic cover and re assembled the whole thing. As you can see the new connector has a slightly different design.



    Make sure you open the blue clip before you connect it back on to the injector.

    That’s about it.



    This didn’t resolve my issue but for £12 and a little amount of time about 1 hour (but could be done in about 1/2 a hour next time). Well worth the problem not occurring at a later time.

    Hope this helped.

    Keith

  8. #18
    Regular Member MattW's Avatar
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    Great write up there Keith, wish I'd have read that before doing mine

  9. #19
    Regular Member Dan_BlackSRi's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra SRi

    Trim : XP1

    Engine : 1.9 CDTi 150

    Year : 2007

    Mileage : 66000

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    Good how2, I should solder mine at some stage, much neater !!

  10. #20
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    Great how too, Did they upgrade the injector wiring in 2006 or is this still an issue ?

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