PLEASE HELP!!! Timing belt renewal issue

**123rado** · 8th November 2012, 17:03

Hello guys. Need assistance as I am stuck in the middle of a timing belt renewal.

Car is 1.9cdti 120bhp. Everything was going okay till I got to the water pump and then realised that the cam pulley has got to come off before getting the water pump out.

While trying to remove the cam pulley bolt, the cam pulley (cam mark) moved two teeth backwards (anticlockwise) away from position. I marked up new position and removed pulley thinking that when I put it back, I will move it back to original cam position after tightening but it didn't work that way as it moved two teeth forward (clockwise) away from cam position during tightening.

Next thing I did was to turn crank bolt thinking cam pulley will go round and come back to normal position but with hindsight I have now realised it will require belt to be on pulleys before that can be achieved. Anyway, while turning the crank bolt (clockwise), the cam pulley moved two teeth backwards into original cam position (which was what I wanted). Nipple on crank bolt now sitting at the top away from crank mark.

Here is the problem. I fitted belt up and tried to turn engine by hand but it is totally stiff. I have got no clue why that is. Have I broken anything? What do I need to do to correct this?

What I am thinking of doing is remove belt and turn crank bolt till the nipple just about align with the crank mark (this was the original position before removing cam pulley) but I will like to hear suggestions first before I do that.

PLEASE HELP GUYS. THANKS

**Swedge** · 8th November 2012, 17:09

have you removed the plugs? it will be stiff to turn over due to compression

if your timing marks are fine it should be ok but take off the plugs and turn it over by hand

**123rado** · 8th November 2012, 17:26

Originally Posted by Swedge

have you removed the plugs? it will be stiff to turn over due to compression

if your timing marks are fine it should be ok but take off the plugs and turn it over by hand

I have not removed glow plugs but will try that. Is it all glow plugs that should be removed? Just thinking of that plug on extreme offside that is a pain to get to.

**markm** · 8th November 2012, 17:27

wouldn't the engine be under compression as the plugs are in ? wouldn't have thought to can manually turn an oild burner unless the plugs have been removed ??

**Swedge** · 8th November 2012, 17:28

the more you remove the easier it will be, it should still turn over with them in though even though a bit stiff

**123rado** · 8th November 2012, 17:34

Originally Posted by markm

wouldn't the engine be under compression as the plugs are in ? wouldn't have thought to can manually turn an oild burner unless the plugs have been removed ??

Can you rephrase your questions please? Are you seconding the suggestion by Swedge? Thanks

**123rado** · 8th November 2012, 17:35

Originally Posted by Swedge

the more you remove the easier it will be, it should still turn over with them in though even though a bit stiff

Okay. Will try pulling plugs in the morning. Already dark outside now.

**jamesmcuk** · 8th November 2012, 19:18

No need to pull plugs. It will be a real effort to turn an engine. I assume you are doing it via the crank pulley bolt. You should send the whole thing through at least 8 revolutions and check all the marks still line up. If so then you are golden. But you will be knackered doing it. A nice long bar is what ya need

**123rado** · 8th November 2012, 19:34

Originally Posted by jamesmcuk

No need to pull plugs. It will be a real effort to turn an engine. I assume you are doing it via the crank pulley bolt. You should send the whole thing through at least 8 revolutions and check all the marks still line up. If so then you are golden. But you will be knackered doing it. A nice long bar is what ya need

Yes. I am doing it using the crank pulley bolt. Is there any risk of breaking something if it is turned by force?

**jamesmcuk** · 8th November 2012, 19:47

I doubt you could apply enough force manually to cause major damage. If you follow the procedure for locking the cam and crank and then fit the belt and then apply the tension its pretty hard to go wrong other than having a whine due to a tight belt or a slip due to a loose belt. As far as I am aware you can remove the Cam belt spin all the pulleys then set them all at lock, fit the belt and all should be well.

Anyway it should turn easily for about 3/4 of a turn then tighten right up and with a real effort push through then almost pop as it passes max compression before going easier again. This is whats happened on all the diesels I have done this too but I ain't done a Vec. How different can it be?