Z22YH Engine not firing - Fuel pressure regulator?

[bug_bloke]

Hi all, I've had a good look around the forums and I can't find the problem I am experiencing. I am sorry if this has been covered before.
2007 2.2 direct - Z22YH
Started the engine (no recent problems up till now) drove away and it conked out and would not restart. Engine rotating but not firing.
Rolled it back, parked it up and started playing. After a load of different tests, I distilled the fault into the following symptoms.

• No fault codes, no spanner light
• Loads of fuel in the tank, and it is being delivered to the engine (which is confirmed by removing the low-pressure fuel hose and turning key to on).
• Unplug the pressure regulator, engine starts and sounds good for 2-3 seconds, then dies. With regulator plugged in, it does not start at all. This symptom is repeatable.
• High pressure fuel pump, regulator and sensor replaced 20,000 miles ago
• Possible related - I remember there was previously a shortlived whiring noise coming from the engine bay upon ignition on (but not engine start), that sound is not there now. What was doing this whirring noise? Can someone go and check theirs to confirm I am not imagining things.

So my question is, does this sound like a high pressure fuel system problem, possibly the regulator? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Thaanks for your help everyone

[skidmark1]

just checked mine and there is a high pitched whine that comes from the area by the fuel pressure regulator, there looks like a valve just below the regulator but I am not sure if it is coming from that or not or what it is there for

[CLUB04]

If it fires and runs (albeit briefly) with the regulator unplugged, but not at all with it plugged in, that would be your initial problem, in my opinion

Sent from my H8416 using Tapatalk

[bug_bloke]

Update: Ordered and fitted a new pressure regulator. It did not clear the fault, although the car ran for a few minutes, it stalled when I engaged drive on the transition, and then did not restart.

Again, much playing around, including inspection of as much of the wiring as possible and removal and inspection of the high-pressure fuel pump. I found the following:

If I unplug the fuel pressure sensor and regulator, the engine can start and stays running. Although I would not trust it even for a short test. If I tried again after stopping it, it did not start again.

I believe all this confirms the problem is related the fuel system, but could be the ECU, fuel sensor or interconnecting wiring (or something I’m not thinking of). I have ordered a second hand engine ECU and I am considering ordering a pressure sensor, but what could go wrong with them to cause this problem?

How does the sensor and regulator work? Is it possible that the sensor/ecu ‘thinks’ the pressure is not high enough yet and blocks the regulator to allow the pressure to build up?

By the way, still no check engine light and no fault codes (apart from the expected codes relating to the unplugging).

Has anyone seen these symptoms before, seen a post with similar symptoms or has any in-depth knowledge of the system please?

[bug_bloke]

Am I right in thinking that the replacement engine ECU needs to be coded to my car?

If so, I will need assistance from someone with a tech2, but I don't know anyone in the area. Also, if I've got someone plugging in, then maybe they can tell me what's wrong with it.

This is the problem with working on your own car all the time, when you really need help you don't know where to go for it. I'm in the Medway towns, does anyone have some suggestions?

[bug_bloke]

Update

I replaced the engine ECU, which caused the problem to get worse. The engine turned over but clearly no fuel was being delivered this time, so I installed the original ECU. Upon attempting to start again it fired up. I left it running for a while and it sounded fine, even at high revs. After stopping and attempting to start, it refused to restart. i.e the original problem had not magically disappeared.

At this point I started to realise it was not a fuel problem, but possibly an air problem.

So, next I tried disconnecting and blocking the crackcase vent valve, tested, no change. Then I disconnected the power to the Purge valve and the car started. But it was rough. The strange thing is once I plugged the purge valve back in, the original problem would not return, even after a few attempts.

The purge valve appears to work with a 9v battery, i.e. no air can pass, then connect to battery and then air can pass. But upon further inspection of the crackcase vent valve and pipework I found it very thick with gunk. So I replaced the Crackcase vent valve for a new one and cleaned the pipe to see if this improved matters.

The car is now starts every time, but has new problems.

Spanner light on, no codes, no power at low revs. I have looked thought some forum threads a little and think it’s a toss-up between the swirl flaps and the timing chain. Does anyone have any tips to easily inspect one or the other, or shall I just start stripping the engine to inspect/replace both?

Thoughts and comments are appreciated.

[troutybrown]

What diagnostics are you using?

[Graham2704]

I would go Fuel pressure regulator if the spanner light is on. Does it happen when the engine is hot as mine would always do this when sat in traffic. Swirl flaps if you put your hand on the bar and get someone to turn the ignition on you will feel it move left/right the noise you can hear is the actuator moving it. Timing chain would also cause a non start so look before you keep cranking it over !!. Take the cover off and normally the black plastic guide snaps off you will see it moving.

[bug_bloke]

Troutybrown, I’m using one of those cheap email scanners, and also a Bluetooth device with the Torque app. Would I benefit from getting someone in with a Tech2, or Snapon scanner?

Graham2704, I’ve already replaced the fuel pressure regulator, it made no difference. The new problem happens all the time, hot or cold. I can see and hear the bar moving left and right, but is it possible that one or two of the flats are stuck closed? The car starts, but I’ve read other people say they found the timing chain a jumped a tooth causing similar symptoms i.e. low power at low RPM and no fault codes, but ultimately drivable.

I think my next step is to use my endoscope (once it arrived in the post from amazon), to see if my swirl flaps are all opening when the bar moves across. I might also be able to use it to see the tensioner on the chain.

[troutybrown]

Troutybrown, I’m using one of those cheap email scanners, and also a Bluetooth device with the Torque app. Would I benefit from getting someone in with a Tech2, or Snapon scanner?

If spanner light has been on there will be a code stored. Tech2 or Opcom will read it. Google Opcom we are not allowed to discuss the use of it on here.