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Thread: Somethings wrong

  1. #1
    Regular Member brimfull's Avatar
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    Default Somethings wrong

    Hi,

    Just wondering if anyboby else has had a problem with their vectra c similar to mine.

    Car will run fine for a number of days, leave for around 24 hours and battery appears to be flat, jump start the car it will then run fine for anything up to a couple of months.

    I have had a mechanic look over the car and he can confirm that the battery is being charged when engine is running and there is no drain when engine is off.

    During everyday driving the trip computer screen flickers slightly when car is reved, and upon start up heater blow appears to be quite weak until engine has been running a few seconds then blows fine.

    I have changed the battery about 8 months ago and this has made no differnece.

    There are no warning lights on and car does drive fine when it starts, just a little frustrating that I can leave the car for more than a day without battery going flat, howevere this problem does come and ago.

    This problem does seem worse when rear windscreen heater is on.
    Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Regular Member Ademusic's Avatar
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    Default

    Sounds like a dodgy battery made worse by the cold weather and the fact you'll have more things on such as lights, heater etc this time of year.
    Even though the alternator can be tested to show it's charging the battery, the battery may not be holding it's charge to well so you may need a replacement...

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    Regular Member jonnybravo's Avatar
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    Default

    Hi B
    when you changed battery did you fit a new battery of the same output ie amp/hour.if not as ademusic says the battery may not be man enough to run all components in the cold weather.have the battery drop tested at your local garage this will tell you if the battery is holding charge correctly.check your manual it will tell you the battery output required

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    Regular Member jonnybravo's Avatar
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    Default

    the output will be on your battery on a sticker

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    Default

    Here's a few places to go and things to do ...

    Most batteries are sealed maintenance free units but some still have removable covers so you can check the electrolyte fluid level. Do this by looking down into each cell and checking that the fluid level covers the top of the metal plates, top up with distilled (de-ionised) water as necessary.

    (1) Test the battery’s level of charge. With the ignition switched off the battery voltage should be greater than 12.2v.If the voltage is below 12.2v then recharge the battery.

    (2) Test the alternator output voltage. With the engine running at a fast idle (1500 rpm) attach a multimeter across the alternator terminals (the large red cable to the battery and engine earth will do). A voltage reading between 13.2v – 14.2v is OK. If the voltage reading is less than 13v or above 14.4v then suspect an alternator fault.

    (3) Test the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA battery load test). Disable the ignition and turn the engine over on the starter motor for 15 seconds, the voltage on a good battery should not drop below 9.4v – 9.5v during this test. If the voltage drops below 9.4v then recharge and retest the CCA before writing the battery off.

    (4) Test the battery for current drain. Remove the battery negative lead and connect a multimeter (set to 10A DC range) between the battery’s negative lead and negative terminal. Stand by current draw should be less than 35mA (35 milliamperes). If everything is normal, you will read a stand by current of less than 0.035A (35mA). If the current drain is higher than that you need to find out what is draining the battery.

    (5) Check for correct battery fitment. Check the batteries Ah (ampere hour) rating against the manufacturers specifications.

    Typical multimeter readings for serviceable batteries are:
    Fully charged 12.6v - 12.8v (partially charged 12.2v – 12.4v)
    Fully discharged 11.8v - 12.0v (under load/dead cell 10.5v)
    Continuous (alternator) charging 13.2v - 14.4v
    Standby current drain 35mA (drawn by alarm, clock, ECU etc)
    Overnight trickle charge at 1.5 amps (4 hour rapid charge at 4 am

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    Regular Member frasedeb's Avatar
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    Default

    do you lock it every time or do you park it in garage unlocked. sounds daft but you must lock it to reduce battery drain.

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    Regular Member Tadpole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frasedeb View Post
    do you lock it every time or do you park it in garage unlocked. sounds daft but you must lock it to reduce battery drain.
    as I found out having similar problems
    Today with over a week of not moving the car started fine first turn hth ………

  8. #8
    Regular Member Ste's Avatar
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    Default

    People wrongly think there is a problem at this time of year. Cold weather (batteries lose performance and charge storing ability at lower temps) means (generally) more electrical power consumption from blower, lights, heated rear screen means that less power is available for the battery to recharge. Coupled with more stop starts and shorter journey's more frequently mean the battery takes a hit.

    If the battery is being charged (the test that most people do is without these electrical drains turned on) says everything is OK. The only remedy is to manually charge the battery, reduce electrical consumption or drive longer journeys.

    That assumes that battery and alternator are in good condition.

    I did a test and measured the power consumed as electrical loads were turned on and off.

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74787

    the ambient temp was a fair bit higher than it has been of late.

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