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Thread: Car won't start!

  1. #1
    Regular Member Telly Addict's Avatar
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    Vehicle : BMW e92 335d

    Trim : M Sport

    Engine : 3.0 TT

    Year : 2008

    Default Car won't start!

    Hi all, just got back from the annual xmas jaunt to the inlaws after a week away and the car of course was covered in 6" of snow. Cleared most of the snow off the car and decided to start her up and run her for a while until hot.

    When ignition was applied, a continuous clicking could be heard from the rear end and the computer showed an 'F' in place of all figures. Turning to start did nothing...

    I noticed the fuel gauge did not move either (stayed at empty even though I know there is plenty of fuel in it) and the temp was showing -8C...

    Do you think the diesel has frozen? It's only cheapo supermarket fuel atm. I believe the temps have been this low for most of the week if not colder...

    Any ideas??

  2. #2
    Regular Member mattv6diesel's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Bmw 330d

    Trim : Msport

    Engine : 3.0d

    Year : 2008

    Default

    take your battery out and charge it then put it back in. that will reset the ecu's and make sure its charged

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    sounds like a dead battery mate

    Get a booster pack or jump leads....

  4. #4
    Regular Member frasedeb's Avatar
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    there was a similar post on here about a week ago where the owner tricked the car into starting by warming up the outside temp sensor.
    worth a try

  5. #5
    Regular Member Telly Addict's Avatar
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    Vehicle : BMW e92 335d

    Trim : M Sport

    Engine : 3.0 TT

    Year : 2008

    Default

    I measured the battery at 12.4v, which should be ok...

    Hmm maybe I'll try removing it and charging it anyway.

  6. #6
    Ex Vec-C Admin Deztroyer's Avatar
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    they take a hell of a kick on ampage to crank them over will probably be taking it well under the necessary starting voltage - everything you have said points to the battery - and thats where i'll lay my tenner

    0-Large smile ......every time it's driven

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    I'd go with battery too it's that time of year, batteries don’t like the cold snaps and frosts. But it may be a starter motor fault, here's a few checks to confirm or eliminate:

    Most batteries are sealed maintenance free units but some have removable covers so you can check the electrolyte fluid level. Do this by looking down into each cell and checking that the fluid level covers the top of the metal plates, top up with distilled (de-ionised) water as necessary.

    (1) Check the batteries level of charge. With the ignition switched off the battery voltage should be greater than 12.2v.If the voltage is below 12.2v then recharge the battery.

    (2) Check the alternator output voltage. With the engine running at a fast idle (1500 rpm) attach a multimeter across the alternator terminals (the large red cable to the battery and engine earth will do). A voltage reading between 13.2v – 14.2v is OK. If the voltage reading is less than 13v or above 14.4v then suspect an alternator fault.

    (3) Check the cold cranking amps (battery load test). Disable the ignition and turn the engine over on the starter motor for 15 seconds, during test the voltage on a good battery should not drop below 9.4v – 9.5v. If the voltage drops below 9.4v then recharge and retest the battery before writing it off.

    (4) Check battery for current drain. Remove the battery negative lead and connect a multimeter (set to 10A DC range) between the negative lead and the battery negative terminal. Stand by current draw should be less than 35mA (35 milliamperes). If everything is normal, you will read a stand by current of less than 0.035A (35mA). If the current drain is higher than that you need to find out what is draining the battery.

    If the battery proves OK suspect the starter motor, possible a sticking bendix. With the ignition switched off, put the car in gear and gently rock it back and forth a couple of times.

  8. #8
    Regular Member Telly Addict's Avatar
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    Vehicle : BMW e92 335d

    Trim : M Sport

    Engine : 3.0 TT

    Year : 2008

    Default

    Cheers for the pointers chaps, but the clicking is when IGN ON not when trying to crank. It sounds like it's coming from the fuel pump area.

  9. #9
    Ex-Staff Full Member John LE's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Facelift Insignia/Corsa D

    Trim : LE/VXR

    Engine : 2.0 cdti/1.6 Turbo

    Year : 13/07

    Default

    I think you may be right about the fuel freezing, sounds like it may be frozen in the lift pump. Do you have a garage with a heater you could put the car in over night?

  10. #10
    Regular Member Telly Addict's Avatar
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    Vehicle : BMW e92 335d

    Trim : M Sport

    Engine : 3.0 TT

    Year : 2008

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by john.robertson2 View Post
    I think you may be right about the fuel freezing, sounds like it may be frozen in the lift pump. Do you have a garage with a heater you could put the car in over night?
    Sadly no, the garage is full and I wouldn't like to try pushing the veccy up the incline in 6" of snow...

    I think I'll take the battery out and charge it over night, maybe it'll clear any daft ecu problems in the process.

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