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Thread: N/S Rear Caliper Binding

  1. #1
    Regular Member si_hoss's Avatar
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    Default N/S Rear Caliper Binding

    It's hot after a short run, even in this weather and smells of burning. Also, noticed the car feeling sluggish on acceleration even before checking.

    So, I'm gonna buy and fit myself a new caliper, anyone know roughly who's best to buy from and rough cost? Europarts list this for my number plate and engine

    http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Va...bf2b35015&BCAL

    If I get this will I need the rewind tool?? And would Halfords sell that tool?

    Cheers
    Si

  2. #2
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    Interestingly my rear offsite is binding slightly but unsure as to whether its the handbrake or the calliper.

    What makes you so sure that it the calliper Si ?

    Dave

  3. #3
    Regular Member cerbrious's Avatar
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    replacing the caliper is a little drastic, remove the caliper remove the pads and remove the dust cover from around the piston (this is probably damaged and will require replacment) get an assistant to GENTLY press brake to bring the piston out chances are there is gunk and corrosion on it that will clean off with a metal polish untill you have a nice smooth piston.
    rewind the piston i use a pair of needle nose pliers in the holes on the piston face turn the piston clockwise as you apply pressure to push the piston back in.
    if pads ok reuse if not replace there buttons anyhow and make sure to check fluid levels

    sorry if you already knew this but from experience people are usually terrified at caliper maintainance.

  4. #4
    Regular Member gtr1000's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Insignia

    Trim : Sri

    Engine : 140 Ecoflex S/S

    Year : 2013

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    When I wanted to service my 302's about 18 months ago, VX had the seals kits on backorder of 3-4 weeks. There were no re-con calipers in the UK, also on back order. Solution - upgrade to 314's.

    Anyway, IIRC, the linky price is cheaper than the re-con/exchange ones from VX. Or, if you do strip the caliper down, just make sure you've got new seals before you start or at least check the current availability.

  5. #5
    Regular Member cerbrious's Avatar
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    if its just a edges of the piston you can usually get away with leaving the piston in place just bringing it out a little.
    usually its just the dust seal that perishes

  6. #6
    Regular Member si_hoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cerbrious View Post
    replacing the caliper is a little drastic, remove the caliper remove the pads and remove the dust cover from around the piston (this is probably damaged and will require replacment) get an assistant to GENTLY press brake to bring the piston out chances are there is gunk and corrosion on it that will clean off with a metal polish untill you have a nice smooth piston.
    rewind the piston i use a pair of needle nose pliers in the holes on the piston face turn the piston clockwise as you apply pressure to push the piston back in.
    if pads ok reuse if not replace there buttons anyhow and make sure to check fluid levels

    sorry if you already knew this but from experience people are usually terrified at caliper maintainance.
    Thanks for the advice, I'll have a look tomorrow in-between decorating the kitchen and shopping for cabinets etc etc

    I took the piston out of my old Frontera and clened it up once, solved the problem for about 4 months then replaced it with a second hand unit. I guess even if this has the same effect it'll delay it til the warmer weather so will give it a go!!!

    I'll check the handbrake cable for any obvious damaged causing it to stick.

  7. #7
    Regular Member cerbrious's Avatar
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    never had this only be a tempory fix in the past if you clean it all up properly your laughing might be worth changing the brake fluid soon incase its moisture content is too high

  8. #8
    Regular Member si_hoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cerbrious View Post
    replacing the caliper is a little drastic, remove the caliper remove the pads and remove the dust cover from around the piston (this is probably damaged and will require replacment) get an assistant to GENTLY press brake to bring the piston out chances are there is gunk and corrosion on it that will clean off with a metal polish untill you have a nice smooth piston.
    rewind the piston i use a pair of needle nose pliers in the holes on the piston face turn the piston clockwise as you apply pressure to push the piston back in.
    if pads ok reuse if not replace there buttons anyhow and make sure to check fluid levels

    sorry if you already knew this but from experience people are usually terrified at caliper maintainance.
    MORNING!!

    It's been a couple of weeks, thought I sorted it but now found out I haven't. Gave it a look over to find the pads are down to the last mm, so hoping this was why it was binding I emery-clothed the piston as it was right the way out already, couldn't get the right sized tool and couldn't wind it back with pliers so handed it over to a tyre and brake place to change.

    Now, it's still heating up, only getting warm rather than hot like before, but getting that "burning brake" smell too.

    My question is, if I buy a seal kit, do I need to remove the piston completely to fit, and is it a difficult task?? The dust seal is perished badly also (I do have a pic but it's on another phone).

  9. #9
    Regular Member simon1's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra elite

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 1800

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 80000

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    have you got solid discs on the rear as will be taking mine off as going to go vented and 292mm callipers . my old callipers done little millage and no problems if you get stuck

  10. #10
    Regular Member si_hoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by simon1 View Post
    have you got solid discs on the rear as will be taking mine off as going to go vented and 292mm callipers . my old callipers done little millage and no problems if you get stuck
    Hmmm - I think vented but can't remember, I'll have a look at lunch, many thanks for the offer!!!

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