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Thread: Questions about changing rear upper control arms

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    Default Questions about changing rear upper control arms

    All,

    I need to do this as I've been told that both of my rear arms are worn. I'm guessing that these are the ones.

    I've read the How2 and the associated notes - links below - and have a few questions. I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on the subject.

    1. Is it vital to remove the springs in order to be able to replace the control arms, or is it just nice to have the springs out of the way to get more access (especially to undo the nut and bolt at the top/inner end of the control arms)?

    2. If you would remove the springs, would you undo the bolt on the lower suspension arm (as per the How2), or compress the springs, or both?

    3. Did anyone remove the brake calipers (and mounting brackets) to get more access to the nut and bolt that hold the control arm on to the wheel hub?

    Thanks in advance and best wishes for Christmas and the New Year to all!

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46991

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?p=572048

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    Quick lunchtime bump.

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    you'll need to remove the springs to gain acces to that nasty inner bolt, when i did mine i jacked up the car then supported the lower control arm with a trolley jack, then removed the bolt connecting it to the hub carrier & lowered the jack (no need to compress the spring). the callipers don't need to come off as there's plenty of space to get the bolt out.

    i recomend you do the drivers side 1st as it's a little easier as the exhaust aint in the way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by john1 View Post
    you'll need to remove the springs to gain acces to that nasty inner bolt, when i did mine i jacked up the car then supported the lower control arm with a trolley jack, then removed the bolt connecting it to the hub carrier & lowered the jack (no need to compress the spring). the callipers don't need to come off as there's plenty of space to get the bolt out.

    i recomend you do the drivers side 1st as it's a little easier as the exhaust aint in the way.
    Thanks very much, John. I was going to do the offside first for exactly the same reason - now I've got a reason to pity people with twin exhausts!

    I'll take your advice that the spring does need to come out for purspoes of accessing the nut and bolt at the top of the arm. I'm going to try getting it out with spring compressors first before trying the method of unbolting the lower control arm.

    More opinions and advice welcome!

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    Forum Moderator John LE's Avatar
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    It's safer and easier (than using compressors) to unbolt the bottom of the strut to remove the spring

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    Quote Originally Posted by john.robertson2 View Post
    It's safer and easier (than using compressors) to unbolt the bottom of the strut to remove the spring
    Noted, John. I'll have a look at both options once I get the wheel off. I've got a spring compressor that I haven't used yet but if it looks a bit tricky, I'll go for dropping the bottom arm instead.

    I take it you agree that it is necessary to remove the spring to get access to the nut and bolt at the top of the upper control arm?

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    Forum Moderator John LE's Avatar
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    Not only that but it gives alot more room to work in as things are tight anyway

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    Quote Originally Posted by john.robertson2 View Post
    Not only that but it gives alot more room to work in as things are tight anyway
    This is the spring compressor I've got. You'd use all 3 on the front springs once you'd removed the strut from the car as you can then evenly space them around the spring.

    I'll use 2 of them opposite each other for the rear springs because the way that the springs sit on the suspension arms prevents spacing all 3 evenly around the spring.

    http://www.clarkeinternational.com/s...ing-compressor

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    Just an update...

    I did mine without removing the springs but then I did have someone helping me so access wasn't such a problem - one person could work on the upper bolt from under the car while the other held the nut from under the wheelarch.

    I used a bottle jack to lift the wheel hub up to normal ride height (which I measured from the top of the wheelarch to the centre of the wheel) as this is the suspension position where the arms are not being put under pressure.

    You've just got to be careful that you don't lift the car up off of the axle stands if you do it this way.

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    I too did mine without removing the rear springs. My dad and I worked on it and did the ARB bushes at the same time, both sides done in just under 6 hours.

    The boltj is a pig to get to but once the car was on the ramp and high enough in the air, we found a lot more room to work, but I was lying under the car for most of the 6 hours, playing with my nuts (and spanner)!


    Bye bye Vec B
    - Hello Siggy!

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