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Thread: good old battery problems again

  1. #1
    Regular Member nick-v2.2's Avatar
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    Default good old battery problems again

    Well after my mess around the other week and the aa guy saying it was the starter motor, turned out to be a flat battery of course.

    Charged it for 12-14 hours last saturday and its flat again. Come out of work today to the usual clicking.

    Lucky for me I had my charger in the boot.

    Only took a minute or two and was able to start the car and come home, dropped off at a local garage and got them to check the alternator.

    With car running it was about 14+ so seems fine. I have put the car on charge over night and will check again tomorrow. Just to make sure.

    its the 2.2 z22se elegance. The battery is 8 months old and says low maintenance on the side, altho I actually bought it flat which was strange and assumed it was a sealed non maintenance type. I know wrong to assume.

    If i go and purchase another battery, any recommendations would be great.

    With this battery being "low maintenance" its an unmarked brand so really my own fault. Is it just the fluid level inside I would need to check and possibly have to top up, or is it worth disconnecting to get the model number off the side?

  2. #2
    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Mk1 renault scenic... I know I know but it drives

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    Default

    have you checkd the fluid level?

  3. #3
    Regular Member Thunder's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra C Facelift

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    Default

    If i go and purchase another battery, any recommendations would be great.
    This link will help Click me

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    The Delphi sealed batteries fitted by Vauxhall as OE are usually very long lived - if you've got trade club just get one from a dealer.

    Otherwise the Bosch Silver range is highly regarded http://www.carbatteriesonline.co.uk/...make2=VAUXHALL

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    Before you go running off to part with your hard earned do a few tests/checks...

    (1) Most batteries are sealed maintenance free units but some have removable covers so you can check the electrolyte fluid level. Do this by looking down into each cell and checking that the fluid level covers the top of the metal plates, top up with distilled (de-ionised) water as necessary.

    (2) Check the batteries level of charge. With the ignition switched off the battery voltage should be greater than 12.2v.If the voltage is below 12.2v then recharge the battery.

    (3) Check the alternator output voltage. With the engine running at a fast idle (1500 rpm) attach a multimeter across the alternator terminals (the large red cable to the battery and engine earth will do). A voltage reading between 13.2v – 14.2v is OK. If the voltage reading is less than 13v or above 14.4v then suspect an alternator fault.

    (4) Check the cold cranking amps (battery load test). Disable the ignition and turn the engine over on the starter motor for 15 seconds, during test the voltage on a good battery should not drop below 9.4v – 9.5v. If the voltage drops below 9.4v then recharge and retest the battery before writing it off.

    (5) Check battery for current drain. Remove the positive lead and connect a multimeter (set to 10 amp DC range) between the positive lead and the positive battery terminal. Stand by current draw should be less than 0.035A. If everything is normal, you will read a stand by current of less than 0.035 amps (35mA). If the current drain is higher than that you need to find out what is draining the battery.

    (6) Incorrect battery fitted. Check the batteries Ah (amp hour) rating against the manufacturers specifications.

    If the little red ‘ignition light’ comes on it indicates a variation between the alternator output voltage and the battery voltage. If the light gets dimmer as the engine revs up then suspect an alternator fault. If it gets brighter then suspect the battery.

    Typical voltage readings for serviceable batteries are:
    fully charged 12.6v - 12.8v (partially charged 12.2v – 12.4v)
    fully discharged 11.8v - 12.0v (under load 10.5v)
    continuous (alternator) charging 13.2v - 14.4v

  6. #6
    Regular Member nick-v2.2's Avatar
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    Default

    hi many thanks for the information.

    It is a low maintenance battery, so first thing I shall do in the morning is check fluid levels.

    I put it on charge at around 5pm using a Clarke BC130, after about 3-4 hours it says it is pushing 0amp, usually indicating battery is fully charged

    From the manual

    http://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manua...c120n-520n.pdf

    "Keep the battery on charge until the Ammeter gauge reads zero (or 0-2
    amps) or has stopped moving down. Then switch off at the machine."

    Just my luck.



  7. #7
    Regular Member nick-v2.2's Avatar
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    Default

    Charged it over night.
    Disconnected the charger and checked the fluid seems ok

    then tested with the voltmeter.
    car Locked and stood for 5 minutes it read 12.4 to 12.5.
    With the car unlocked it read 12.20.
    With Car started it reads 14.32
    turning all the lights on and stereo, it dropped to 14.15
    I tried the ammeter check, but was unable to lock the doors while it was connected so it would not settle. Or I could of just done it wrong but was giving reading from 0.5 to 3.0.

    I have not touched anything electrical in around 6-7 months.

  8. #8
    Regular Member nick-v2.2's Avatar
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    Default

    somehow managed to double post

  9. #9
    Regular Member Ste's Avatar
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    Default

    If it's only 8 months old then is it covered by a warrantee?

  10. #10
    Regular Member nick-v2.2's Avatar
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    Default

    its only a small garage and i dont have the reciept. I have got a second charger to try charging it. Going to see what happens if not i'm looking at the exide range.

    Which exide battery would it be for the vectra 2.2 z22se. Currently have a 065 battery on.

    I always end up with problems round christmas :-(

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