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Thread: Sub Help

  1. #1
    Regular Member Damian's Avatar
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    Default Sub Help

    After a little bit of advice on a sub.

    I currently have a Pioneer 4 channel amp installed in my car with 2 channels in use for the front speakers so 2 channels spare.

    1. Do I just connect a sub to one of the free channels??

    2. I have seen a Pioneer sub and it says it needs a 28 litre box, how do I work out how big this is ??

    3. I would actually like to have the sub well hidden out of the way, but I don't want to take my spare wheel out either. What are my options ??

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Regular Member Robward27's Avatar
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    If the four channel amp has two sets of RCA (phono) inputs you should be able to split the input into both sets using these : http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...=SEO&U=strat15 however you have to make sure you have individual low and high pass filters in the amp or you'll have to install an inline filter before the input of the amplifier. Also you may only be able to use one output channel of the amp if its not bridgeable (you may have a selector switch for this 2/3 or 4 channel). As for the sub what size is it, you can purchase ready made boxes which do not take up too much room, especially in the vectras boot lol!!!.

  3. #3
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Other options? yes mate try this

  4. #4
    Regular Member Matt21385's Avatar
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    Trim : VXR

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    Quote Originally Posted by rushy
    Other options? yes mate try this
    How does it sound mate & what size of sub is it? (Great idea)

  5. #5
    Regular Member DennisTheMenace's Avatar
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    looks like either a ten inch

  6. #6
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    A full 10 inches mate. Sound not as good as in box and I still need to do a lot of sound deafening, but for what I want it for just to give that little punch its ideal. Alpine do a little active box (150w) that will go in there a treat by the way.

  7. #7
    Regular Member Damian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robward27
    If the four channel amp has two sets of RCA (phono) inputs you should be able to split the input into both sets using these : http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...=SEO&U=strat15 however you have to make sure you have individual low and high pass filters in the amp or you'll have to install an inline filter before the input of the amplifier. Also you may only be able to use one output channel of the amp if its not bridgeable (you may have a selector switch for this 2/3 or 4 channel).
    This is the instruction manual for my amp if that will help answer the questions above, sorry for being such a novice

    Cheers

  8. #8
    Regular Member Damian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rushy
    A full 10 inches mate. Sound not as good as in box and I still need to do a lot of sound deafening, but for what I want it for just to give that little punch its ideal. Alpine
    How easy is it to get in and out to access the light cluster ?? Any chance of a mini how 2 on what you did

    Cheers

  9. #9
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Ok mate bit late now, will do tomorrow night.l

  10. #10
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Right damian here goes:-

    First you need to strip the boot, so you need to put seats forward, boot floor out then side panel out. To do this first you need to take the plastic lock surround off, a gentle pull towards the front and it should pop off. Then pull the boot door seal off around the side panel. There is one plastic plug that you need to take out, you can break this as you need to upgrade it. Top right of panel by the way. The hole side panel should now pull out and leave you with this.

    You will note in the pic that there are 4 pins in the floor, you will be using these later.

    Now make a cardboard template of the flat newly exposed area. Once its lined up press down and use the pins to punch holes in the cardboard. To get your front edge now place side panel back in and mark with pen. Its quite hard to explain but you then need to take away the thickness of the wood and then the sub plus about 1cm to allow the sub to move. Transfer this pattern to 18mm MDF + drill out the holes to fit over the pins. Make them quite tight as this holds the bass in place. Job done now for the baffle.
    Again 18mm MDF. Its up to you how high you want it, mine fills the hole, but if you want better access to light make it shorter. Put the MDF under the hole and mark around the hole, now add one inch. you should now have the baffle plate. With the sub you should have the diameter of the hole you need to mount it, transfer this to the baffle and start cutting. A 10 inch sub will not fit inside the hole so test fit the two pieces of wood to see where you want the sub to go. Screw together and test fit and it should look like this

    With this in place you can now make the top brace. I just used an L bracket and self tappers to secure it to the inner side wall.
    Fix the sub in, then the side panel and run it up, check that the sub is not hitting the panel, if it is a little bit of trimming is needed.
    I used a plastic rivet to hold the boot wall back in place ( same as the ones that hold the bumper on). They are a bit over-sized so hold the wall good and tight.
    To make this sound nice and tight you are going to have to sound deafen, Dynamat is best but very expensive so I am going to use roof flashing. Also you had better get your sub matched, a free air is best if you want the best quality of sound.
    Hope this helps

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