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Thread: Bumper Painting Advice

  1. #1
    Regular Member djr69uk's Avatar
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    Default Bumper Painting Advice

    Hi guys

    I'm part way through painting a bumper for my old RS2000. Not having done prep and paint before I was hoping to get an idea of how to achieve the 'perfect finish' using rattle cans!

    Basically, due to orange peel effect where someone has painted it before I've sanded it pretty much right back to the bumper using 240 grit and then given it a couple of coats of primer and sanded it back using higher grit until the final coat which I went over with 1200 to give it a nice smooth finish.

    Have now started to paint it and so far have done quick thin coat. Assuming I'm doing OK so far... how do I continue? The paint is pearlescant and I've got laquer to finish it off. Do I lightly sand between colour coats and also after final coat before applying laquer, or should I just build up the colour then laquer?

    Also, I've got wet n dry sandpaper... but not sure when to use it wet or why it needs to be wet.

    Any advice greatly appreciated! Cheers

  2. #2
    Regular Member Ben999's Avatar
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    Everytime i've had painting done people always do it differently. Had a go myself a few times and from what I've learnt, the important things are


    • More thin coats is better than less thick coats
    • No need to sand down between coats of paint, although i would be happy with the finish to your colour before laquer goes on
    • Keep the spray equal distant from the bodywork as you go along (that is move across with the spray, rather than bending your wrist causing the spray to 'arc') does that make sense?
    • If you can get a compressor and spray gun, much much better than aerosol, if you are doing a big panel, i would never use cans personally.
    • do it in a dry, dust free
    • use a sanding block when sanding so you dont get finger lines in the paint.

    To finish it off nicely use rubbing compound, works a bit like t-cut but a lot lot better. You can get it in different grades. Course for getting rid of the major defects, such as paint trickle. Or ultra-fine will remove the scratches from sanding, leaving a nice smooth surface for you to polish.

    Using wet sanding, the water just acts as a lubricant, effectively stops the particles youve just sanded off being rubbed in and scratching the surface you're preparing.

  3. #3
    Regular Member SignumPhil's Avatar
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    The problem with using cans is that the spray pattern is very narrow and the paint very thin and soft. A lot of the paint is almost dry by the time it hits the target.
    In the past, I used to get half decent results by warming up the aerosols in a bucket of hot water, and getting the work piece warm, too.
    Otherwise, yes, lots of thin coats, let them dry, then a very light rub with very fine wet and dry and water. The water lubricates the paper and reduces the build-up of lumps of paint under the paper.
    Then let it dry again, wipe over to get the dust off, and apply another coat.
    Unless paint technology has improved in the last few years you'll need anything from 5 to 10 coats.
    Remember that any imperfection in the surface you can feel will be emphasised when you paint it, so it needs to perfectly prepared before you start.

    Hope this helps.......

    Phil

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    I've done spraying with aerosols with, and without, smoothing each layer of topcoat with fine wet'n'dry, and the "without" method does leave more of an orange peel effect.

  5. #5
    Regular Member djr69uk's Avatar
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    cheers for the top tips guys. even with the 1200 grit there were paint buildups forming on the paper which were introducing light scratches in the fresh paint so that explains that! i'll def. use the wet method between coats from now on.

    silly question maybe, but how much water do i use for wet sanding? do i apply it to the surface or paper first? does it not matter? and should i wait ages after paper before wet sanding? the cans said i can wait 15 mins before adding coats but it wet sanding should i allow more time than that - or for thin coats will 15 mins be fine?

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    Regular Member SignumPhil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr69uk View Post
    cheers for the top tips guys. even with the 1200 grit there were paint buildups forming on the paper which were introducing light scratches in the fresh paint so that explains that! i'll def. use the wet method between coats from now on.

    silly question maybe, but how much water do i use for wet sanding? do i apply it to the surface or paper first? does it not matter? and should i wait ages after paper before wet sanding? the cans said i can wait 15 mins before adding coats but it wet sanding should i allow more time than that - or for thin coats will 15 mins be fine?
    Just dip the paper in a bucket as often as you can. I'd leave a bit longer, as aerosol paint is very soft.

    Phil

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    Regular Member djr69uk's Avatar
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    Cheers all. I'll have a crack at this tomorrow

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