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Thread: Sorry another Hid question

  1. #1
    Regular Member phil67's Avatar
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    Default Sorry another Hid question

    Ive been reading/ searching about some of the problems about certain types of HID kits for a facelift model (faults, flickering), i know this will provoke some silly replies but which kit is the best and i have also noticed that you only seem to get to do the dipped beam, so if i take the plunge is it woth doing the full beam as well.


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    Lots of people use cheap kit, some have been fine, others have encountered faulty equipment, others have bought kit that requires remedial work before it's suitable for use with canbus cars (i.e. they've had to splice the wiring and insert a resistor into the lighting circuit).

    If you want the best kit, i.e. guaranteed not to cause faults, and instead do exactly what it says on the tin, get www.HIDS4U.co.uk "Ultimate" kit. Works perfectly with canbus cars, no bulb-check error messages, no flickering lights, no failed ballasts after just a couple of months.

    As for doing full beam as well - it's totally unnecessary and also much more difficult to do than dipped beam. Unnecessary given how bright full beam is anyway and how infrequently you'd use it. Difficult because HIDs take a few seconds to reach full brightness after you switch them on, and if you fit them to main beam as well, you'd lose your ability to "flash" your lights at other cars, and you'd probably fail the MOT as a result. The majority of cars that have HIDs fitted at the factory during production stick with halogen bulbs for main beam and the HIDs only on dipped beam. The small percentage that do have HIDs on main beam as well (bi-xenons they're called) have two bulbs in mainbeam - a halogen one for flashing your lights, and a HID one for sustained mainbeam use. It's difficult to replicate this two-bulb mainbeam set up.

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    Regular Member phil67's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks Thomas, that explains a lot why the kits only have the stuff for one set of lights.

    Cheers matey.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas1 View Post
    Lots of people use cheap kit, some have been fine, others have encountered faulty equipment, others have bought kit that requires remedial work before it's suitable for use with canbus cars (i.e. they've had to splice the wiring and insert a resistor into the lighting circuit).

    If you want the best kit, i.e. guaranteed not to cause faults, and instead do exactly what it says on the tin, get www.HIDS4U.co.uk "Ultimate" kit. Works perfectly with canbus cars, no bulb-check error messages, no flickering lights, no failed ballasts after just a couple of months.

    As for doing full beam as well - it's totally unnecessary and also much more difficult to do than dipped beam. Unnecessary given how bright full beam is anyway and how infrequently you'd use it. Difficult because HIDs take a few seconds to reach full brightness after you switch them on, and if you fit them to main beam as well, you'd lose your ability to "flash" your lights at other cars, and you'd probably fail the MOT as a result. The majority of cars that have HIDs fitted at the factory during production stick with halogen bulbs for main beam and the HIDs only on dipped beam. The small percentage that do have HIDs on main beam as well (bi-xenons they're called) have two bulbs in mainbeam - a halogen one for flashing your lights, and a HID one for sustained mainbeam use. It's difficult to replicate this two-bulb mainbeam set up.


    its not any more dificult to do the full beams just the same as diped as i have done them to and my fog lights ,when i looked at getting mine people said they wouldent work when flashing them but they do , they are just not as bright as when there warmed up(would say there as bright as normal bulbs) but after 5 ish seconds they are great and especialy on country roads you can see for miles


    btw my 3 kits are from hid-direct.com (think thats what its called)

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