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Thread: EGR Valve on 2.0 DTI LS 2004

  1. #1
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    Default EGR Valve on 2.0 DTI LS 2004

    Can anyone let me know if my EGR valve should have a gasket?

    I removed the EGR last week to clean and noticed the wasnt one.


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    FYI. Ive just received my new EGR valve and it has a rubber O ring.

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    Yeah, and they're a pig to reseal. Been there, done that on my Mk4 Astra 2.0DTi. Never again.

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    Regular Member markd3925's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra GTS


    Engine : 3.2 V6

    Year : 2003

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    thought they had a metal gasket, check its not stuck to the valve might not notice it if its metal

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    Regular Member david.aka.judas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C@rlos View Post
    FYI. Ive just received my new EGR valve and it has a rubber O ring.


    £2.78 from VX.

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    Here are a few random pics from when I changed my EGR.

    New EGR and open inlet manifold


    I cleaned this about two weeks ago.


    Old EGR


    Old EGR looking tatty


    Inlet manifold was also full of crud, also cleaned the boost sensor attached to this.


    New EGR fitted


    The gap you see in the gasket was totally crudded up. How nice the EGR valve looks.

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    Regular Member david.aka.judas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C@rlos View Post
    Here are a few random pics from when I changed my EGR.

    New EGR and open inlet manifold


    I cleaned this about two weeks ago.


    Old EGR


    Old EGR looking tatty


    Inlet manifold was also full of crud, also cleaned the boost sensor attached to this.


    New EGR fitted


    The gap you see in the gasket was totally crudded up. How nice the EGR valve looks.

    oh - you thought you would go once step further did you.........

    can we have a how to on the manifold........please.

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    The manifold was just as easy as the EGR.

    Once the plastic cover is removed,

    You just need to undo the jubilee clip from the rubber hose attached to the inlet manifold.

    Then you remove the 4 torque bolts, (pic 7) and lift the manifold up from the two locating lugs, keep an eye on the gasket, you dont want to lose it.
    There is a bracket attached that the plastic cover plugs into, this is held by the two left side torque bolts.(seen on pic 5 on the left of the image)

    To remove the boost sensor from the inlet manifold (pic 5) there is one torque bolt, remove this and then you can rotate and pull out the sensor, it is held in with a rubber ring seal. If you are cleaning the sensor, be very careful, the sensor nodule looks very fragile, and I cleaned it with an artist paint brush and carb cleaner until it was all a yellowish colour, (sorry I didnt take any pics of this)

    With the inlet manifold, I completely soaked it with Carb cleaner, and if you can look inside you will see that there are holes inside, mine where gunked up with crud, I used a flexible wire to poke out the crud and re-cleaned with Carb cleaner, I used about two tins of the stuff.

    Put back together in reverse, REMEMBER DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS, I tightened untill you feel the bit and then giv a quarter or half a turn, I dont have the torque settings for these bolts and do not have a torque wrench.

    Hope this helps.

    Just to add, I have flawed the motor yesterday and today and the light and limp mode has not appeard, Yet?

    Yey!

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