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Thread: Cable from front grill to dash HOW????

  1. #1
    Regular Member jonnye's Avatar
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    Default Cable from front grill to dash HOW????

    Help,

    Just got a Origin B2 camera detector with Target LCR100 garage door opener, apparently this unit has been know to interfere with the mobile laser camera vans.

    Anyway the B2 is in and working great just need to mount the LCR100 in the front grill, easy?

    How the hell do I get the cable form the engine compartment to the dashboard???

    Had a look about and can’t see an easy place to feed the cable, anyone done this? Is there a trim under the bonnet to remove to gain access to a bung plug on the bulkhead?

    Any help would be appreciated

    The car 2005 – SRI 3.0 CDTI V6

  2. #2
    Regular Member Ben H's Avatar
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    Mines a 52 2.2 SRI.
    Routed my front parking sensor cables through grommit main harness runs through behind glove box.
    Whip out glove box (5 screws) and you should see a rubber grommit 3 inches across I guess with a harness running through it. I use an electricians pull through, it's like a stiff but still flexible nylon rod (you could use wire coat hanger), with a bit of a push I pierced it through rubber next to harness & out into engine bay.
    Attach your cable with some tape & give it some lube, oo er!!, the KY was indoors so I just gave it a squirt of WD & gently presuaded it to come through. Once through I cable tied it to harness both sides of bulkhead to keep it still, keep in mind water run off so I had cable coming up to grommit from outside although you coud silicone the hole up after but looking it doesn't look as though it gets too wet there.

    Don't foget to leave enough slack by the headlight so you can still open the bonnet if you're mounting behind grill in bonnet.

    HTH

  3. #3
    [Ex]Admin Duncan's Avatar
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    This is how I routed my boost gauge piping from the engine into the dash area. It depends where you want your wiring to be. If on the right then I'd think this way may be better, if nearer the left then maybe Ben's way..

    Remove wiper arms and water deflector - large black plastic thing. Be very careful when removing it as you need to flex it a bit to get it past the bonnet, and it can break easily (as I found out!!)


    You'll see a bung plug on the drivers side. With a knitting needle/electricians pull etc. you can quite easily feed it into the area under the dash. You just need to remove the trim under the steering wheel to get your hands on it






    HTH

    D

  4. #4
    Regular Member Ben H's Avatar
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    Nothing wrong with Duncs way and as he says maybe better if on the offside.
    I maybe wrong, isn't glovebox easier to remove than dismantling drivers side. I've only taken drivers side apart once & found it a bit fiddly.

  5. #5
    Regular Member Ben H's Avatar
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    Still drivers side may be better depending where you're mounting the display unit.

  6. #6
    [Ex]Admin Duncan's Avatar
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    Drivers side is easy Ben. 5 screws on the under wheel trim - one of which is accessed by removing the headlight switch, easy enough procedure but there's a little trick to it. Once you know it, not a problem.

    D

  7. #7
    Regular Member Ben H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duncan
    Drivers side is easy Ben. 5 screws on the under wheel trim - one of which is accessed by removing the headlight switch, easy enough procedure but there's a little trick to it. Once you know it, not a problem.

    D
    I do recall the head light switch being a cow, I recall it came out in the end but don't think I removed it as it was designd

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    Regular Member jonnye's Avatar
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    glove box may be better, all the cables for the origin drop down into the void by the fag lighter, have to give it a go.

    Just got to get a garage I can fit an automatic door to don't want to miss use the item after all it would not be right to block the laser gun on camera van would it

  9. #9
    [Ex]Admin Duncan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben H
    I do recall the head light switch being a cow, I recall it came out in the end but don't think I removed it as it was designd
    Here's the trick - if you weren't aware you'll have been cursing when you tried to remove it.

    Push headlight knob in (it's spring loaded). Whilst pushing in, turn the knob to the sidelights position - this releases catches in the unit holding it into the trim. As you'll be pushing on it as it releases, it'll shoot backwards into the dash. Just grab the knob tightly and pull it towards you and out of the trim. You can then unclip the wiring connector on the back to let you then remove the trim. You'll then have revealed the last screw needed to remove the trim under the steering wheel.

    HTH

    D

  10. #10
    Regular Member armoured farmer's Avatar
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    Wink

    Ben , i mounted my B2 top r/h corner of dash, had mine hardwired too ,came in from engine bay the same as Duncans, really easy.had all my laser detector mounted on top of rad, and a small piece of plastic removed so it has full road view.











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