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Thread: V6 Ticking/ Tapping noise

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    Default V6 Ticking/ Tapping noise

    I have an ’04 GSi automatic with 48K on the clock. I recently noticed a faint ticking noise from the engine bay. From inside the car it is inaudible, I only heard it when I had the window down and reversing into the driveway. The frequency of the ticking does not increase in direct proportion to engine rpm so I don't think it is a faulty hydraulic tappet. I suspect the noise is coming from one of the bearings in the either the auxiliary drive belt tensioner or rollers.

    I had the cam-belt, rollers and water pump done only 3,000 miles ago so I’m pretty sure it won’t be any of those components.

    On the assumption that it is a problem with the auxiliary drive belt and associated parts, if anyone has experience of changing these items a V6 I’d welcome comments on the ease (or otherwise) of the job. I had a quick look today and it looks like a pretty major dismantling task as I can’t see any easy way to gain access to the belt, tensioner and rollers without removing an engine mounting?

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    Regular Member poves's Avatar
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    mine makes a slight ticking noise on idle , never bothered me though , 03 elite 3.2. 41000 miles.

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    Thanks for your response Poves - if the car had always made this noise, I wouldn't be concerned. It has only started to 'tick' within the last week or so, therefore my assumption is that some components are reaching the end of their life and I'd like to replace them prior to complete failure.

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    If the ticking does not change when the revs change it cannot be related to tappets drive belt etc. What about the heater fan

    My 3.2 taps a bit from cold but thats a reminder it needs an oil change >150K miles now

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    Lotus_c_man - the frequency of ticking sound does change with rpm, but not in direct proportion, which is why I suspect impending bearing problems with auxiliary belt tensioner/rollers.

    I wouldn't (and didn't) attempt the cam-belt change on the V6, but I'm trying to get a view on the complexity of changing the auxiliary belt and associated parts as these are probably the cheapest bits with which to start in an effort to cure the ticking noise. I suspect an alternator or air con pump swap would much more difficult and expensive, so I'm hoping it not one of those components on the way out.

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    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    right.. the simple answer is, you'll have to remove the engine mount to get access to the belt..no other practical way..

    so, airbox out, support the car on an axle stand, support the engine on a jack, remove the engine mount, then detension the beltand slip if off the waterpump pulley..

    then you can spin the pulleys by hand to see if any/ which one is rough..

    BTW, it's normally the belt tensioner pulley, which is avaliable seperatley to the tensioner..

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    GSi3.2, Thanks - exactly the info I was seeking.

    I didn't know the pulley was available as a separate component from the tensioner and that is useful to know, but as these don't appear to be particularly expensive bits, I'll probably just replace the lot and have done with it.

    Pity that the garage who did the cambelt job didn't suggest doing this while they had the thing in pieces to do that work. Normally garages aren't slow in finding excuses to do more, but maybe they thought they were doing me a favour keeping the cost down.

    Do you happen to know the torque figures for the tensioner-to-engine , plus the engine mount-to-engine, engine mount-to-bodywork?

    I assume the torque figures in the Haynes manual for the other models are fine for the engine mount-to-bodywork, but I'm not sure about the engine mount-to-engine and tensioner-to-engine figure for the V6.

    Comments appreciated

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    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    right, the tensioner pulley to tensioner assy has no torque figure, as you do the nut up it will just move the tensioner over on the spring..and thats when it's tight enough..

    the engine mount to bodywork figure is the same across the board..and the mount to engine is just FT...it's steel into alloy threads so don't go banana's..

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    GSi3.2 - Thanks again

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