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Thread: Heater Blower Strange Problem - Help!

  1. #1
    Regular Member djr69uk's Avatar
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    Default Heater Blower Strange Problem - Help!

    Sorry to post this in the general section but I want as many eyes as possible on this one.

    My heater doesn't work most of the time on settings 2 and 3 and so yes it sounds like a resistor pack failure. So today I bought one and thanks to the brilliant info on this site, I had it fitted in about 10 minutes. At the time I also checked for water ingress and pollen filter blockages. All fine. The motor seems to spin freely too.

    I turned the blower on and for about 10 seconds it worked on '1'. Then it died again.

    Basically more often than not it will not work on anything apart from '4'. Sometimes when I get in the car it will work for about 5 seconds on say '3'... then stop running and only work on '4' again. Very rarely it'll work for an entire journey. When I turn the dial to '1' I get do hear a faint click coming from near the relays on the left hand side behind the grove compartment, then and another louder click when the dial reaches '4', at which point the motor always spins up fine. I then get another faint click when I turn it off again.

    So it isn't a resistor pack problem and it doesn't sound like the control knob as it is making something click everytime I go from off to 1 and 3 to 4. The temperature is fine too - just the blower speeds.

    Not knowing much about electronics has left me a bit foxed with this one. Oh and I'm not covered by any warranties before anyone asks. Any ideas?

    Thanks for any help in advance.

  2. #2
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    i was hoping to see a reply to this because i've got the same problem with my signum only works on No4.

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    Me too

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    Regular Member 67688c's Avatar
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    Just had a look at the wiring diagram, as I thought it would be a quite a simple circuit, slightly more complex than I thought, mainly due to the extra circuitry for the aircon.

    It uses 3 relays, K3,K4,K5. K5 looks like the main motor blower relay, there are also 3 fuses in the switching lines of the relays. It discribes K5 & K4 as blower relays.

    K5 Relay = F23 (40amp)
    K4 Relay = F2 (7.5amp)
    K3 Relay = F25 (7.5amp)

    In view of the fact the resistor packs are okay, it may be worth a quick check to see if all the fuses are okay. The main fuse which supplies the whole heater circuit is F33 which is a 60amp so if this blows the heater motor would not run on any speed.

    Would you believe there are 4 motors in total being used in that aircon/heater circuit.
    Main Blower motor
    Recirculation Flap motor
    Air distribution Falp motor (whatever that is)
    Air mixer flap motor.

    Looks like there is a PCB control board on the heater assembly itself so the problem could well be on that somewhere, dry joints being very likely perhaps especially as the motor started and then stopped. The wiring from the main rotary heater speed switch goes direct to this control board. The resistor pack also plugs directly into the main control board, so a problem with this may be the culprit, especially in view of the fact your've already replaced the resistor pack.

    The relays just switch the main positve +12v with all the speed control circuitry as is usual being on the negative side of the motors.

    Why do they have to make something simple so complicated.
    Think mine will be going into the dealer if it ever gives trouble.
    Last edited by 67688c; 1st September 2008 at 17:34.

  5. #5
    Regular Member 67688c's Avatar
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    Unlikely to be fuse related...
    On reading the original post again, I would bet a tenna that it will be one or more poor solder joints on that control board, the symptoms you discribe are typical of this.

  6. #6
    Regular Member djr69uk's Avatar
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    Thanks Cameron - that's really helpful... I think I understand the wiring a bit better now, but if you could somehow attach a picture then that would be great

    The relays or dry joint on the motor control circuit sound like a possibility to me as these could cause the problem to be intermittant i'd guess. If it was one of the fuses behind the relays then surely something would stop working completely?

    When I first bought the Veccy, the problem only occured once or twice but otherwise would work fine. As time has gone on, the problem is the opposite... so now it works very rarely and so most of the time doesn't work on 1-3. Every so often it kicks in for 5 seconds... but only ever when you initially turn the ignition on - never during a journey.

    Another bit of info if it helps... I tried probing the connectors on the resistor pack for some sort of output whilst it was on setting 3, but couldn't find anything at all. Admittedly I don't know which pins do what, but I'm fairly sure I tried every combination. However, I do get the faint click from a relay when I turn it from 0 to position 1. Then a louder click from a relay when going from 3 to 4. 4 of course makes the motor run.

    Thanks again.


    **edit** only just read your latest post... got distracted by a work mate
    Last edited by djr69uk; 1st September 2008 at 18:35.

  7. #7
    Regular Member 67688c's Avatar
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    Haynes manual heater circuit.

    Sorry about quality... heavily compressed.

    HTH

  8. #8
    Regular Member 67688c's Avatar
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    see if this is better
    Last edited by 67688c; 1st September 2008 at 19:31.

  9. #9
    Regular Member djr69uk's Avatar
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    Thanks again mate. That's cool. I've not really tried to figure one of these diagrams out before but after studying it for about 15 minutes I think I'm getting an idea of what's going on - although it's probably complete b*llo*cks! lol! I'm an IT guy so I don't do electronics - but I'll give it a go anyway!

    My interpretation...

    On body control unit (26) position 0 - nothing happens all relays stay open. That was easy lol!

    Body control unit position 1-3 - i'm guessing the main control unit (76a) sends a voltage along the wire to K4 (via XC27/32??) and this closes the relay. The closed relay completes the circuit back to the main control unit (via XC28/4??) and then probably gets re-directed into the heater resistor pack (76c) via control unit output pins (XC28/1-3 depending on the state of the body control unit switch). The output is spat out with resistance and then goes into the heater motor via pin 1.

    Body control unit position 4 - signal sent to K5 via XC27/21, relay closed and circuit completes via the voilet wire into the motor. Motor spins full pelt.

    So if the above isn't horribly confused or confusing (which I suspect it is!), then I'm thinking the only 2 things that could cause this particular issue are the relay at K4 or the main control unit as you suspect - which is more than likely the problem - especially as it is the most expensive to fix!

    However, I can prove the relays are OK if they are the same by swapping them. Is it likely that they are the same? How do I locate them? I looked in the passenger side fuse box and can't see any relays... the manual doesn't tell me where they are...

    Thanks and sorry if the above makes no sense!

  10. #10
    Regular Member parapaul's Avatar
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    Relays will most likely be in the fusebox behind the battery... That's about as far as my usefulness extends!

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