Does anybody know the colours on the ignition switch?
I need to know...
The first position, known as ACC also, colour wire for live
Then second position, the colour wire out of the two that stays live after car has started
Thanks in advance
Does anybody know the colours on the ignition switch?
I need to know...
The first position, known as ACC also, colour wire for live
Then second position, the colour wire out of the two that stays live after car has started
Thanks in advance
If you're looking at the ignition switch itself, there isn't a conventional live feed you can pick up as such. The switch is part of the CIM (column module).
The CIM runs on only around half a dozen very thin wires for EVERY function on the steering wheel and column. And I'm fairly certain (IIRC) there isn't even 12v in there, it’s running on 5v.
If you need a 12v ignition switched live for something, there are better places to get one.
What are you trying to do m8 ?
FFS! lol.. This car is a pain in the arse .. why cant it be wired like my MK2 Astra, that was easy! lol
Im trying to wire up a boost guage bud...
The loom on the guage and where it needs to go are as follows;
1. Red > Battery +
2. Black > Earth -
3. Brown > Illumination... i.e. sidelights
4. Yellow > ACC - first ignition position
5. Orange > To an ignition live position 2 that stays live once car has started
So basically i can run 1 & 2 straight to the battery, 3 im sure can be tapped into the sidelight live, its gonna be 4 & 5 that are a mare
if you tap into the side light live you may upset the system all the feeds you need will be behind the glove box to the left but if you choose the wrong wire you maybe giveing your self a head ache my advice is dont bother fitting it the chance of a problem if you dont know what you looking at are very very high indeed you could always contact a good auto sparky ...
Might be a better bet for the Illumination to tap into the radio Illumination, wont interfer with the check bulb system then.
Lol, if only, wiring anything on these is a PITA !!!
Right, yep 1+2 straight from the battery. (don’t forget a fuse)
3 is probably easier and certainly safer from an existing dash switch or the cigarette lighter, anything inside the car that is illuminated, whatever you decide you can get too easiest. The extra current drain shouldn’t be an issue, but if you are concerned about it, use a relay. Don’t use the sidelights, it’s not worth the risk of upsetting the bulb failure warning system which you probably will, lol.
4+5, your best bet is to remove the glove box, and have a look at the back of the fuse box inside the car, use a multi metre (NOT a test light) and you will probably find what you are looking for. Sorry, I don’t have any wire colours for you, but I have myself taken a ignition switched 12v feed from here.
Don’t really understand the need to have both an acc and ignition feed in just a boost gauge, unless it is going to stop some special function, I'd be tempted to connect both to the ignition feed.
It sounds like it's an AutoGauge boost gauge? - same as mine. The gauge has the option of having an alarm on it or not, which can be turned on or off. To retain the setting that you make, it needs the permanent live. The acc is then the power it gets when you turn on the ignition.
I wired mine into the +12v cables on the back of the light switch where there was both an ignition and permanent live, with it being half-Can - but on a facelift as we know it's full Can and the highest voltage you now get from those cables is +5V.
Have a look at Spoons' thread on him fitting his boost gauge - it may help. He has the same gauge as me, and I'm guessing you?, and with his being full CAN he had to be a bit more inventive with the wiring.
Right, I can understand the idea of a permanent and a switched live.
My gauge is also a AutoGauge gauge. (christ that’s a lot of gauges, lol.)
The battery live is permanent, wire 1 in this case.
But why the need for two switched lives ?
Wires 4+5 are both switched, which is what I don’t get, unless that is just the alarm thingy you mention.
There is no alarm on mine, but my gauge is digital, and it only has four wires, perm live, swt live, earth, and the feed from the remote sensor.
Ah, now I remember.
You can wire that gauge in such a way that with the lights off the dial is white, and when turned on it's red - or vice versa if you prefer, so you wire one of the cables into a feed that is only live when the lights turn on.
I didn't want that, I simply wanted it white all the time so I wired it with, I think, just one wire to give white only. I'm not at home so I don't have the instructions for the gauge to hand to be able to give precisely what you need to wire and where for the different options.
http://www.autodials.co.uk/
The SM68 range of boost guage
I think the 2 switched lives are for calibration on the first turn of ignition then the second turn is to power it on
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