User Tag List

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 47

Thread: Started fitting my rear electrics today

  1. #1
    Ex Vec-C Admin Ian-Highlander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ely, Cambridgeshire
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    61 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats

    Vehicle : Insignia Tourer

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 2.0 CDTI (160ps)

    Year : 2010

    Default Started fitting my rear electrics today

    I've been meaning to do the rear electric windows in my car since I got it and having picked up all the bits I needed second hand for really good prices a few weeks back, I thought it was time to fit them. Have hunted high and low on this site and as there doesn't appear to be a decent set of pics of the process anywhere, I thought I'd try and make it a mini "howto" for anyone that may want to do this in the future, so apologies for the number of pics.

    Well the weather wasn't up to much and I was inside the house more than out, but as the car is booked in on Monday for the rear electric windows to be tech2'd I figured I should probably make a start on actually fitting them

    Haven't taken as many pics as I originally planned to, mainly because I kept having to pack up and dash inside every time the rain kicked in (every few minutes). But will update with more concise ones tomorrow when I get the other side in.

    Started stripping the door panel, pretty much same old same old, but for anyone that doesn't know, you pop the handle cover off as shown here and remove the two screws underneath it, then removed the two screws at the bottom of the door. (I'd already fitted the new switch panel with tweeter a few weeks ago, but it's not connected to anything yet in case anyone wondered why there's both switch and winder in place).



    The slightly fiddly bit that seems to put people off doing this is removing the winder handle, it's really very easy to do indeed. With the handle in the position as shown above, push the panel in slightly with your hand to make enough of a gap between the handle and the panel to pop a cloth round behind it. Didn't take a pic of this stage, but just imagine an upside down U shape of cloth round behind the handle, leave a little slack at the top and pull down on both ends of the cloth. It catches the circlip and pulls it straight off. There are other alternative methods, from using small screwdrivers to tiny allen keys to hook it off or if you do this a lot (as I used to), you can buy a tool that does it all for you in a second (used to have one, no idea where it is these days).

    In this pic, the door handle cover, the winder handle, the circlip everyone's scared of, the backing washer that goes between the handle and the door panel.



    You should be left with a nice handle-less panel like this.



    And for those of you that do worry about the handle or circlip, a picture of what it looks like with the circlip in place so you can see how the cloth catches the end parts when you pull it off.



    You can then pull the panel off carefully just as you would with any other door panel on the Vec. Remember to unclip the internal door handle cable before pulling the panel away. Once the panel is removed, very carefully remove the main part of the damp proofing layer (the white plastic sheet) and the door speaker.



    Of course, the day I was having, this lot came over head again, time to clear up and go get some lunch I think.



    Anyway, another break in the weather and out I go again. At this point I remember to actually check whether or not my car has the right body loom for the windows (probably should have checked before removing the rest of the door panel ). Luckily for me, all the wiring is there. If you want to check if your body looms have the wiring or not, it's simple enough. Push the blue plastic circle inwards towards the door as you pull the car side part of the loom out and then look at the plug. If it has the two large connections you can see at the top of the body loom plug in this pic, then it's wired for electric windows. These are the main power cables coming into the door for the motor.



    As you can see, the door side of the loom doesn't have one of these pins, this and the extra connectors for the motor is why you need to buy new door looms if you do this mod.



    Remove the old loom, this is very simple with one slightly tricky part. Getting to the release clip on the connector for the door lock is slightly fiddly as it's right at the top of the door and there's not much room to get anything in to release the clip. Anyway, once done, you'll end up with something like this. (Old loom at the top, new one underneath).



    You can see the differences in the looms, with the extra connectors for the tweeter, the electric window switch and the motor on the new loom.

    Now the fiddliest bit of the whole process and typically I didn't take any pics of this bit, sorry. Will take some decent pics when I do the other window tomorrow. The glass is attached to the window mechanism by a plastic two part "rivet". The glass slots into the white plastic at the top of the mechanism and the rivet passes through the plastic from each side and through a round hole in the glass and then clips together. Removing this clip is really quite fiddly. You need to wind the window down to the access point in the middle of the door, shown between the two lock mechanism cables in this next pic. You now need to poke a small screwdriver or punch through the middle of this clip being very careful not to break it. This releases the catches inside the clip, now whilst holding that in place, you need to reach in behind the mechanism and ease the outer part of the clip out. Once that's out you can push the other one inwards, retrieve both parts of this clip, you WILL need them later (if you break them you WILL need to buy new ones, so be careful).

    Once you've recovered the clips holding the glass in place, wind the window back to the top and tape up the glass so it won't fall when you remove the mechanism. Then drill out the five rivets arrowed in the below picture.



    The mechanism will then easily come out through the main access hole in the door. Shown here, just after I removed it.



    And the new electric one "almost" ready to go in. I say almost because I bought second hand ones and parts of the old rivets where still in place. So out comes the drill again, remove the rest of the old rivets (arrowed) and it will be ready to go in.



    Now is where I hit the fun part of the day (I use the word "fun" in a purely sarcastic way of course). Unfortunately the motors I'd bought had been left right at the top of their run. When I tried to install the motor, I physically couldn't get it into place, the moment I slotted it onto the glass it was a couple of cm's below where it needed to be and I couldn't get it into place. On older cars this isn't an issue, you just plug it in, use the switch to lower the motor a bit, fit it then move it back up again. But thanks to Canbus "technology" this is no longer possible as the electric windows aren't "activated" and as such won't work until they've been tech2'd. The joys of being a qualified auto electrician come in useful at times like these .

    The two main power cables I mentioned earlier connect directly to the motor and are two of the five wires in the housing. If you're lucky like I was, they are already live (red is live, brown is earth), you can tell the two I'm talking about as they are the thickest cables in the loom. If yours aren't live then it should be as simple as sticking the right fuses in the fuse box. The only bit that isn't active and that Tech2 does is activate the switch wires for raising or lowering the window, both of these are just switching a 12v feed to one side or the other of the motor.

    So, leaving the motor assembly hanging outside the door, plug it into the loom, you now have a permanent live feed to the motor, all you need to do is get a switched feed to the right side of the motor to lower it slightly. Very VERY carefully, pierce the outer sleeving of the main live wire (the red one) on the loom thats plugged into the motor so that you can see the actual wire inside it. There are three other wires in this plug, the two you need (one for lowering the window and one for raising it) are the blue/red cable and the grey/green cable. You can safely ignore the brown/black one. Carefully pierce the sleeve on the other two as well so the cable is visible. Be very careful not to damage the copper wire inside, you just need it to be visible.

    Now find a short piece of spare cable and strip each end off. The next bit is straight forward, holding one end of you bit of cable to the red cable so it's touching the wire you made visible, touch the other end to either one or the other of the wires. You'll hear the motor kick in and it will suddenly jump a bit, be careful, I take no responsibility if you aren't ready for it and it kicks up and hits you in the balls or something.

    Basically, by shorting the red wire to either of the others, you can raise and lower the motor at your leisure even though they haven't been activated by Tech2 yet.

    Lowering the motor slightly using the process above allowed me to fit the motor mechanism straight in. Feed it through the main access point, make sure it's lined up so the glass slots into the plastic slot at the top and then carefully rotate the mechanism round from the inside so that the two locating pins (one top, one bottom) both locate correctly. These hold it in place allowing you to do the riveting to fix it permanently again. NOTE: although fitted from the inside of the door, parts of the motor mechanism (and the loom to feed it) end up outside the door as shown below. This picture doesn't quite show it, but if you look very carefully, you can see where I removed part of the loom covering and pierced the cables on the plug right at the bottom of the picture.



    Now using pop rivets about 4.5 - 5mm wide and about 10-11mm long, fit two rivets one at the top and one at the bottom. This is the easiest part of the job, if you don't have a pop rivet gun, BUY ONE, it'll cost you about a fiver and is a million times easier than trying to bolt it in place as well as being the right way to do it. Again, no pics, will take more tomorrow, the one above was taken just before I did mine. I've marked the position where the lower rivet goes with an arrow.

    Make sure the glass is lined up correctly with the top of the mechanism (there's a ruddy great hole in the glass that lines up with the plastic for the rivet to go through). Using your little bit of cable, short the mechanism breifly to bring the window down to the access point as before. Refit the plastic two part rivet, one from inside the door and one through the access point, these clip securely together and hold the glass to the mechanism. Once you're happy with this, short the motor again to send the window right to the top. Remove the connector from the bottom and wrap insulation tape round each wire you pierced individually and carefully, then complete the job by wrapping insulation tape tightly round the whole lot including the little bits you've pre-wrapped. The important thing is to make sure each wire is individually insulated again, you don't want your windows suddenly opening or closing because wires touched

    At this point of the day, it chucked it down with rain again, so I threw everything in the car and gave up for the day. Will finishe the door panel on this one and do the other one tomorrow. More pics and details then.
    Last edited by Ian-Highlander; 12th July 2008 at 21:56.

  2. #2
    Regular Member glynn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    stevenage, hertfordshire
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    looking very good m8, shame about are stevenage weather as i have been doing some brakes in it and got wet

    im going to check my loom next week

  3. #3
    Regular Member colalowe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    in the North
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    its looking good so far
    well explained so far as well.

  4. #4
    Ex Vec-C Admin Ian-Highlander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ely, Cambridgeshire
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    61 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats

    Vehicle : Insignia Tourer

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 2.0 CDTI (160ps)

    Year : 2010

    Default

    Sunday didn't exactly start well for me. Out I went to start fitting the drivers side rear window. I needed to move the car over slightly on the drive to do so, however when I tried to start the car it wouldn't start. The battery was completley dead. Turns out the testing I did yesterday with the window killed it dead. I knew the battery was getting to the end of it's life and this is the second time in a month it's died like this after a small amount of use without the engine running, but was hoping to leave it longer before having to outlay more cash.

    However, a trip to Halfords later, and the heaviest duty battery they had in stock purchased, I got home to find that some kind person had "mislaid" all my sockets, ratchets etc etc Grrrrr, another trip to Halfords later and another £50 spent (this set is now locked in my boot and stays there from now on) and I was finally able to get the battery changed over and make a start on what I'd actually planned today. £150 lighter without even starting

    However back on topic...

    I tidied up yesterdays work, refitted the damp proof layer on the passenger door, replaced the door panel and wired up the new switch etc etc Just the blanking plate for the hole to buy tomorrow.






    Anyway, over to the drivers side, I've been a lot more thorough with the pictures today so apologies for the large number of pics but I wanted to try and show every part of this process. A bit less explanation on this one, the process is the same as the other side.

    Door pre-stripping.



    Handle cover removed to undo two screws below.



    Cloth wrapped round handle to remove circlip. (Pull downwards to remove it).



    Winder handle removed.



    Door panel off, remove rubber grommet round winder.



    And the lower grommet...



    Damp proof layer carefully removed...



    Pushing the blue clip in whilst pulling out the wiring loom connector.



    Wiring loom almost completely removed...



    Here's the fiddlier clip to get at on the loom, you have to push the red clip upwards in order to remove the clip.



    The same clip once it's removed.



    Wind the window down so you can see the plastic rivet through the access point.



    Using a screwdriver a few mm wide carefully open up the clips inside the rivet.



    Carefully prise each side of the plastic rivet out, start with the outer one and retrieve both parts. If you damage this you will need to purchase new ones. This is what the rivet looks like once removed.



    Wind the window back to the top and tape the glass over the top of the door so it doesn't fall when you remove the mechanism. Drill out the five rivets indicated in my first post. Use a drill bit thats wider than the hole in the rivet and it will drill the head off in seconds.



    Ease the mechanism out of it's locators.



    Then feed the mechanism out of the main access hole at the top of the door.



    Now, the fun bit, again the motor was too high to be able to fit straight in and I needed to lower it slightly, again the main power to the door is there, but the switch wires aren't enabled until it's been tech2'd, so plug in the loom to the motor and leave the motor hanging.



    CAREFULLY strip back some of the insulation round that part of the loom.



    And very carefully, pierce the insulation on the red, the blue/red and green/grey wires using a very sharp knife (be careful not to damage the actual wire inside too much).





    Then using a short piece of spare wire, carefully short the red wire to the blue/red one and the motor will lower.



    Lower the motor enough to be able to fit it into the door, then unplug the loom again and make sure the wires that are pierced don't touch anything (you'll need them again in a bit so don't fully insulate them yet). Fit the mechanism into place, making sure you line the glass up correctly with the top plastic fitting and locate the two locating pins top and bottom correctly in the door. Next pic shows the motor in place, the lower locating pin below it and the hole to rivet it on with below that.



    And the top locating pin with the rivet hole above it, both just above the access point for fitting the plastic rivet.



    Load your rivet gun...





    And carefully pop rivet the two holes to attach the mechanism to the door. This literally takes two hard squeezes on the rivet gun and is done in seconds.



    Then fit the stabiliser bolt through the extra hole in the mechanism and the door. (I just bought a couple of standard short bolts with nuts from Halfords for about 50p).



    Tighten the bolt up and then refit the wiring loom to the motor, again using your little spare bit of wire and supporting the glass while you move it (short blue/red to red to lower window or grey/green to red to raise window), position the motor and window so that you can see the plastic rivet point through the small access hole.



    Carefully refit the two parts of the plastic rivet one from each side and make sure they clip together correctly and everything lines up properly. You can then use your wire again to give the window a full test top to bottom and back up again to ensure you have done it all right and left enough clearance for everything.

    Once done, raise the window to the very closed position, this is the last time you can use it until the tech2 has been done. Wrap each individual wire you split securely with strips of insulation tape and then once each is done individually, wrap a final layer round the whole lot to repair the loom insulation.



    With everything else refitted.



    Carefully refit the damp proof layer using spray adhesive.



    Refit the door panel, replace any clips that broke when it was removed, screw the four screws back into place to hold the panel on.



    Connect your new switch (and tweeter if you bought the ones with tweeters in, a bonus of this mod is you get the rear tweeters connected if you didn't before). Fit the switch in place, replace your handle cover and stand back and admire your work.



    So, chuffed bunny, rear electrics fully fitted (and tested) and the car is booked in for a tech2 session tomorrow lunch time to enable them. Just need to buy a couple of blanking plates to cover the old holes left by the winders and it's complete (I've already changed the drivers door switch for the new style one with the rear controls a while back).

    Apologies if this is too pic heavy or boring, I'm kind of using these threads as a record of what I do to my car at the same time as posting it for others to see. I also did the airbox mod to my car this afternoon finally (no pics), so the list of mods done is growing
    Last edited by Ian-Highlander; 13th July 2008 at 16:37.

  5. #5
    Regular Member BigP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Heated, Electric Recaro Leather
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    Thanks for the excellent thread Ian, this is How To material really.
    A great read and very informative will really help people wishing to do the same mod. (On my list but its a long list.)

  6. #6
    Regular Member m_r_shaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sunny Waterloo, just outside Liverpool.....
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    once a again, it's a big thumbs from me Ian , even more in-depth than your (alpine) ice thread i was reading last week, p.s. YOU CAN NEVER HAVE TOO MANY PICS!
    As always, keep up the good work, mike

  7. #7
    Regular Member Baz07's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lancashire
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    Looks like you had a better day than yesterday with the weather, so that helped.

    Hope the Tech2 goes ok tomorrow and everything works..

    Have you now got to get a new battery for your camera..

  8. #8
    Regular Member kenp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Kr. Hyllinge, Denmark
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats

    Vehicle : Vectra C


    Engine : 2.2 Direct

    Year : 2004

    Default

    this is more a complet how2 nice... no problem fitting it when i get the parts

  9. #9
    Ex Vec-C Admin Ian-Highlander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ely, Cambridgeshire
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    61 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats

    Vehicle : Insignia Tourer

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 2.0 CDTI (160ps)

    Year : 2010

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Baz07 View Post
    Looks like you had a better day than yesterday with the weather, so that helped.

    Hope the Tech2 goes ok tomorrow and everything works..

    Have you now got to get a new battery for your camera..
    Heh, I had a second battery charging just incase, but I think I've had enough problems with batteries today

  10. #10
    Vectra-C Obsessed Poster Drinky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    on your momma !!!!!!!!!
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    Spot on how to buddy as said you can never have too many pictures !!!!!

    Back in a V6 !!!!!!!!!!!! And lovin it !!!

Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. help with fitting towbar electrics
    By windy111106 in forum Electrical & ICE (including SatNav)
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 14th January 2012, 16:13
  2. help with fitting towbar electrics
    By windy111106 in forum Electrical & ICE (including SatNav)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 14th January 2012, 01:21
  3. stage one of fitting rear electric windows done today
    By taffy bhoy in forum Vectra C / Signum Car Chat
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 12th October 2011, 22:49
  4. Electric rear windows fitting today
    By soulman in forum Vectra C / Signum Car Chat
    Replies: 42
    Last Post: 31st July 2010, 12:13
  5. Started a new diet today.....
    By Orka The Porka in forum Comedy & Humour
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 28th January 2007, 19:52

Visitors found this page by searching for:

Nobody landed on this page from a search engine, yet!

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •