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Thread: Could someone confirm this Hub will fit.

  1. #1
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : 9-3 Wagon

    Trim : Turbo Edition

    Engine : TID (1.9 16v)

    Year : 2010

    Mileage : 137000

    Default Could someone confirm this Hub will fit.

    My hubs been rumbling for the past couple of weeks so took it to my local indi and he confirmed its my Drivers side Hub. Cheapest Hub ive found is THIS. Could one of you nice guys in the know pls confirm its the right unit for my car. Its a 53 plate (2004) without sports button (i take it that is what the IDS+ relates to).

    Cheers steve.

  2. #2
    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    that'll fit....don't worry about that....

    just be prepared for some swearing as the 32mm hub nut ( deep socket required) is FFT and will take some undoing to get the driveshaft out... best to remove the brakes from the hub carrier and the strut, allowing you to swing the hub on the trackrod end and the lower balljoint to get the best access to the 3 torx bolts that retain the bearing to the hub casting.. the old assy will be tight as it corrodes in..emery the hub carrier recess clean before refitting and allow the bolts to draw it into the recess.. only top tip is watch the alignment of the old ABS wire, and locate the new bearing in the same rotational alignment....

    hour a side, easy....
    Last edited by Gsi3.2; 17th May 2008 at 16:53.

  3. #3
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : 9-3 Wagon

    Trim : Turbo Edition

    Engine : TID (1.9 16v)

    Year : 2010

    Mileage : 137000

    Default

    Thanks for that Mark, garage only want £35 to fit it for me but I would like to do it myself. Will I need a tool to press the drive shaft out or anything else, ive got a torque wrench and know all the settings?

  4. #4
    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    i normally drift out the shaft with a copper mallet.. works every time for me..

    Special tools?.. not really.. they are quite easy to do if you can stop the hub turning..I've even done two on a campsite, so they're not that hard..

  5. #5
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : 9-3 Wagon

    Trim : Turbo Edition

    Engine : TID (1.9 16v)

    Year : 2010

    Mileage : 137000

    Default

    Thanks again mate.

  6. #6
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : 9-3 Wagon

    Trim : Turbo Edition

    Engine : TID (1.9 16v)

    Year : 2010

    Mileage : 137000

    Default

    Well got my Hub (the one in the link), got my E socket set as I needed an E18 for the hub bolts and E20 for the caliper carrier bolts, got 2 new carrier bolts as advised by Garys how 2 then the thread lock and finally the 32 mm deep socket for the driveshaft bolt.

    So im all set, secured the use of a my stepfathers pit garage a torque wrench and every possible How 2, digital guides and paper guides as I could find.

    Car up on axle stands, caliper off at carrier and cable tied up, had a good look at everything that I had to do then this came back to haunt me!
    Quote Originally Posted by Gsi3.2 View Post

    just be prepared for some swearing as the 32mm hub nut ( deep socket required) is FFT and will take some undoing to get the driveshaft out...
    Ferk me, your not joking! Put a Metre extension on my breaker bar and all that happened is the breaker bar bent! Called for the next door neighbours help and he broke out his 3/4 inch professional socket set with a breaker bar I could only dream of. Did that work, did it hell! We even put an extension on that and nothing happened. So last ditch effort was a big hammer and an impact drive to try and shock it loose, no joy.

    So its off to my local indi, for £35+ vat I really should have just got it there in the first place.

  7. #7
    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    they aren't normally 'that' tight rushy.... i mean, Big phils camping feild bearing change only needed Deano on the brake pedal and me on the breakerbar (with mtr extension) to get them to move.. and his shafts were very rusty..

    i try and soak the shaft overnight first with WD to let it creep up the threads a bit too.

  8. #8
    Regular Member opel_estate's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Opel Vectra C Estate

    Trim : Enjoy

    Engine : Z22YH

    Year : 2007

    Mileage : 55000

    Default

    This wouldn't happen to be a left hand threded nut ? Often one side may be RH and the other LH treaded.
    I know i bent a breaker bar, thrashed 2 sockets, broke a ratchet, while changing a driveshaft on my Mazda once. some of the first items were broken wihile actually trying to tighten the nut (not that it actually moved...)

  9. #9
    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    nope.... they are both conventionally threaded..you can see this clearly by looking at the end thread one you have removed the bearing cover cup..

  10. #10
    Regular Member rushy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : 9-3 Wagon

    Trim : Turbo Edition

    Engine : TID (1.9 16v)

    Year : 2010

    Mileage : 137000

    Default

    Id wd'd it the day before, to lock the wheel just took the centre cap off the alloy, at one point we were actually spinning the wheel while it was under full load on the ground.

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