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Thread: Rear swing arm

  1. #1
    Regular Member LAV6Y's Avatar
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    Default Rear swing arm

    Well i found out today what the noise is in the back of my veccy.
    Its the rear swing arms. They both are on the way out.
    The car is due for Mot in June and i have been told that it may go through or may not?????
    I can change them now or take my chances?
    Anyway, back to topic. Is it common for these to make a noise when they need replacing. When you pull on the 2 rear wheels at the top there is play on the wheels. It as though the bolts havent been tightened properly. When i shake them quickly it does knock but the noise i'm hearing is pretty loud. The anti roll bars are spot on. They are pretty solid.
    Option 1: I have been told that they are around £65-£80 for each arm and about 2 hours labour to change. So at a local garage i'm looking around £200 to get them repaired.
    Opion 2: If i take out an aftermarket warranty for £200, then Mot the car and it fails, would this cover the rear arms? This way i'm getting a years warranty too???

    Your opinions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks for your help guys.

  2. #2
    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    Right.. well, from the described problem, i'd say top suspension arms...Dead cheap to buy (£35 a side) and they take about an hour to do if you've never done them before...if you're anyway good on the spanners and have a decent toolkit then you can do them on your driveway easily...

    they are a popular 'wearing' favourite and yes, the MOT should pick up on them..... parts are avaliable easily from your local motor factors..

  3. #3
    Ex-Staff Full Member Ian T's Avatar
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    Default

    I recently changed mine, I was getting the same movement at the top of the wheel, also knocking in corners.
    I bought aftermarket ones for about £35 each as Mark said.
    Took me a couple of hours approx to change both & front anti-roll bar drop links.

    When mine was MOT'd back in September, it passed but these were an advisory, along with the anti-roll bar drop links.

  4. #4
    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    what ian doesn't tell you is he's a devil with the spanners.......

    seriously thou, they are very DIY'able if you have torx sockets..

  5. #5
    Ex-Staff Full Member Ian T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gsi3.2 View Post
    what ian doesn't tell you is he's a devil with the spanners.......
    Thanks Mark, I've been learning by watching the master at work on these Vectra's

  6. #6
    Full Member merikiito's Avatar
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    Default

    Yep easy to do and they are one of the things that need to be checked before the warranty runs out. They can go from as low as 20k on the clock. Every Vectra I have come across and checked has wear in them! There is meant to be no movement in them at all, but with slight movement they will still pass the MOT. My did but they where still swapped under warranty which was just about to run out.

    £35 or even less on Ebay, as said in earlier posts easy to fit. should be less than an hour for both sides.

    Think I need to do a "how 2" on checking the rear suspension arms to help people out. Lets see what the weather is like at the weekend and maybe do a video.
    Last edited by merikiito; 20th March 2008 at 09:37.

  7. #7
    Regular Member LAV6Y's Avatar
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    Thanks guys......i'm up for doing them myself!!!!Only thing is though i would need a bit of a ''how 2''. The money i would save by doing it myself would get me a lovely set of torx sockets too!!

  8. #8
    Regular Member LAV6Y's Avatar
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    Right dudes....I have priced these locally and can get them for 40 quid each so i'm goona tackle these myself.

    Can anyone (IE: Gsi 3.2 haha) give me some pointers, PLEASE??????

  9. #9
    Regular Member LAV6Y's Avatar
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    BUMP!!!!!

    Please guys...can anyone give me some info that will help me to change these myself??

    Thanks

  10. #10
    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    easy tiger....

    right.. dead easy to swap..

    Raise car and support on a stand..remove the roadwheel..

    have a look along the top arm, you will see some plastic clips holding a loom onto the arm, spread them and pull them up..they will come out of their securing holes..

    Inner bolt...spray liberally with WD40....then, using a long extension.. work over the top of the subframe with the ratchet/extension/socket and hold the bolt head with a spanner. It will be tight and access isn't great but you CAN undo it.... then remove the bolt out.

    Outer bolt.. it's a big bolt, so plenty of WD40 again..

    much better access.. so yet again, rachet and spanner...remove the cross bolt.. the arm will now come out..

    aligning the bolt on the inner is dead easy..just push it through and do it up...tight...

    the outer one ( as it's a void bush) will need aligning before the bolt will go through, so expect to have to fiddle with it..replace the nut and do that up tight again..

    replace the wiring harness along the new arm clipping it into the holes..Replace roadwheel and lower the car, put the kettle on for a brew and start on the other side....

    Sit back and think of all that dosh you just saved..

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