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Thread: Fitting new parts at the weekend, advice needed...

  1. #1
    Regular Member Kev_A's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : Z20NET

    Year : 04

    Default Fitting new parts at the weekend, advice needed...

    So....

    First of all, I've bought a 314mm brake upgrade from LMF, I'm wanting to fit this kit on saturday and I'm wanting to know how to go on, from speaking to a couple of mates who've done brake replacement's on other cars they've told me to: Pop bonnet and remove brake fluid reservoir cap, Remove the wheel, unbolt old disc, unbolt old calliper but support as brake line will still be attached, bolt on new disc, swap brake line on to new calliper, bolt new calliper to car, it's when they're explaining the bleeding process is where I get confused, I need a "brake bleed hose" which will clip on to the bleed nipple, I then need to start the engine and pump the brake pedal until all air has purged out of the bleed hose from the calliper and there is only fluid left?

    Is all the above correct? Also what other tools will I need? I.E sockets, spanners, torx fitments, what sizes etc.?

    Also I'm wanting to fit new drop links, the spring sleeve mod and ARB bushes, going from previous threads this has been done many times so presumable SOMEONE knows how it's done? I think I'll leave the spring sleeves to a pro as I don't have spring compressors etc. but what tools are needed for the other jobs?

    The last thing I have to fit is a new Lambda sensor which I've been told is to replace the faulty one in location "Bank1 Sensor 1" from my previous thread this was determined as being the 1st sensor in Bank 1 (the manifold next to the bulkhead at the back of the engine bay) I remember GSi mentioning there being a special tool you can get for loosening off sensors to avoid sheering the bolt head, would Halfrauds sell such a tool?

    Just trying to compile myself a list of tools that I'll need for the jobs in hand, I will of course report back with plenty of pics

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev_A View Post
    So....

    First of all, I've bought a 314mm brake upgrade from LMF, I'm wanting to fit this kit on saturday and I'm wanting to know how to go on, from speaking to a couple of mates who've done brake replacement's on other cars they've told me to: Pop bonnet and remove brake fluid reservoir cap, Remove the wheel, unbolt old disc, unbolt old calliper but support as brake line will still be attached, bolt on new disc, swap brake line on to new calliper, bolt new calliper to car, it's when they're explaining the bleeding process is where I get confused, I need a "brake bleed hose" which will clip on to the bleed nipple, I then need to start the engine and pump the brake pedal until all air has purged out of the bleed hose from the calliper and there is only fluid left?



    Is all the above correct? Also what other tools will I need? I.E sockets, spanners, torx fitments, what sizes etc.?
    it's NEARLY close..the procedure on how to start is the same as the how-2 on front brakepad replacement..but then when the caliper is off you will need to remove the caliper carrier (e20 socket, v v tight ) and then remove the disc mounting screw (t25 bit iirc). tap the disc off it's flange and then clean the flange up with sandpaper/abrasive to get all traces of rust off..degrease the new disc and then reattach to hub flange with screw..remount new caliper carrier and use loctite on the bolts.. do bolts up FT.

    New calipers..use a brake line clamp ( NOT MOLEGRIPS)and clamp the flexible line above the caliper..using a spanner undo the brake hose, but allow the caliper to turn or you'll twist the brake line..remove old caliper.. CHANGE THE WASHERS on the banjo union and then attach the line to the new 314mm calipers makin sure the bleed nipple on the piston is facing uphill....do up tightly but not FT..be careful of stripping the threads.remove hose clamp..re assemble the brakes as per the how-2(all you will need is a 7mm allen key ), then go on to the other side and repeat..

    To Bleed them..DON'T use your mates method get a device called an easybleed as you'll need to be by the caliper when it's bleeding so you can't be on the pedal at the same time....follow the instructions on the easybleed and once all air is expelled you should have a good pedal..Don't forget you have to start at the rears and bleed all four calipers..so use this order..nearside rear/offside rear/nearside front/offside front..
    Quote Originally Posted by Kev_A View Post
    Also I'm wanting to fit new drop links, the spring sleeve mod and ARB bushes, going from previous threads this has been done many times so presumable SOMEONE knows how it's done? I think I'll leave the spring sleeves to a pro as I don't have spring compressors etc. but what tools are needed for the other jobs?
    drop links.. 18mm socket and 17mm spanner..socket for the nut and 17mm spanner for the two flats on the back of the joint to stop it turning..have a look at the new parts to see what i mean..

    Antiroll bar bushes..either a torx socket or a 10mm ring spanner....will do nicely.. while the antiroll bar links are off undo the front bolt on the bar clamp and remove it, undo the back one ( fiddly) but only 1/2 way..push bar forwards..remove clip, swap the bush and put some fairy liquid on the outside of it.. put clip back on, slide backwards into the bolt.. replace front bolt and tighten down evenly....poor access job but very 'dooable' withou some of the subframe horror stories i've heard on here..
    Quote Originally Posted by Kev_A View Post
    The last thing I have to fit is a new Lambda sensor which I've been told is to replace the faulty one in location "Bank1 Sensor 1" from my previous thread this was determined as being the 1st sensor in Bank 1 (the manifold next to the bulkhead at the back of the engine bay) I remember GSi mentioning there being a special tool you can get for loosening off sensors to avoid sheering the bolt head, would Halfrauds sell such a tool?

    Just trying to compile myself a list of tools that I'll need for the jobs in hand, I will of course report back with plenty of pics

    Cheers
    Halfords MAY WELL sell a Lambda sensor socket.. if you can't get one thou, i'll get one for you and post it, from my tool guy..
    Last edited by Gsi3.2; 1st February 2008 at 08:54. Reason: spelling

  3. #3
    Full Member Big Sig's Avatar
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    Mark, what a helpful bloke
    Now I need a turbo to keep up!

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    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    all part of the service..

    if he wasn't in newcastle ( and several hunderd miles away) i'd show him how to do it in person..

  5. #5
    Regular Member Ste's Avatar
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    Default

    If you're quick, and prepared for a little brake fluid spillage, then you don't need the brake clamp. (or Mole Grips ) But you gotta be quick. Also, by not removing the brake res cap, you will slow down the leaking of the hose whilst not attached. You don't need the engine running to bleed, but you will need to press the pedal harder (if you don't go down the easy bleed route as Mark suggests), you will need a friend to operate the pedal though.

    Whilst all the brake components are disassembled, it may be a good idea to give them a dab of copper grease to avoid any foul ups (or squeal) later. But don't get any on the friction surfaces.


    Remember to support the vehicle whilst working underneath, DON'T rely just on the jack, even if it's a proper trolley jack - use axle stands or strong blocks of wood (NOT bricks !)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ste View Post
    If you're quick, and prepared for a little brake fluid spillage, then you don't need the brake clamp. (or Mole Grips ) But you gotta be quick. Also, by not removing the brake res cap, you will slow down the leaking of the hose whilst not attached.

    Little trick on this is bewfore you start, take the brake resevoir cap off, place a couple of sheets of cling film on top and screw the cap back on. You still have to do the whole bleeding of the brake proceedure that Mark talks about, but in theory you'll loose a lot less fluid (stains on the drive that my misses goes mental at).

    Andy

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