Help-Antiroll bar bushes fitting.

**installer** · 30th January 2008, 16:04

Well as some may know by my recent posts I`ve the front end clunk.So drop links or anti-roll bar mounting bushes.
Vxl quoted me £278 for drop links and anti-roll bar bushes.

So I got the parts to do myself with assistance of retired mechanic friend.
Drop links look very easy in effect just nuts to tighten etc - is there a correct torque wrench setting for thses or is not applicable?

BUT after reading - own worst enemy that - and then talking to an independant garage-it suggests that the front subframe needs to come off - which needs a jig to put back correctly.Then once thats done the car needs it`s tracking etc done.All to replce 2 rubber bushes that cost £5.

Then I came across this posted by the site mechanical messiah GSI3.2
"Top Tip..if you're changing the anti roll bar bushes yourself..disconnect BOTH sides of the antiroll bar links first, then just work on one end at a time..slacken the rear of the two mounting bolts and leave it in, but fully remove the front bolt as it's easy to get to with a long extension bar from the top of the engine bay..then slide the bar and it's hoop forward, remove the hoop, swap the bush and push the assy back into the rear bolt, refit the front bolt and tighten the back.. easy as pie, but access is poor.."
Is this true?
Pain in the rear but can be done without removing subframe and the need to get it tracked etc?

so can anyone help me

**installer** · 30th January 2008, 16:41

Found this for torque wrench settings -
Anti-roll bar link;
to strut = 65nm/48lb
to anti-roll bar = 65nm/48lb
Is this correct?
Also was told should replace all mounting bolts/nuts etc.Is this true?

**simon1** · 30th January 2008, 16:43

as above can be done that way did mine 2wks ago when i put new suspension on.. rear bolt is limited space ..i used a ratchet spanner to undo.. very fiddily job ..as limited space but can be done .. took me about 30 mins aside to do on top of suspension... did have a tad more room on mine as strut was out of car..

**spuddevans** · 30th January 2008, 17:18

Originally Posted by installer

Then I came across this posted by the site mechanical messiah GSI3.2
"Top Tip..if you're changing the anti roll bar bushes yourself..disconnect BOTH sides of the antiroll bar links first, then just work on one end at a time..slacken the rear of the two mounting bolts and leave it in, but fully remove the front bolt as it's easy to get to with a long extension bar from the top of the engine bay..then slide the bar and it's hoop forward, remove the hoop, swap the bush and push the assy back into the rear bolt, refit the front bolt and tighten the back.. easy as pie, but access is poor.."
Is this true?
Pain in the rear but can be done without removing subframe and the need to get it tracked etc?

so can anyone help me

Yes it is true, I did my ARB bushes, front and rear a few months ago. I got a set of ratchet torx spanners from halfrauds which made the job possible. It took me and my friend a couple of hours to do on my 2003 2.0Dti, but I reckon now that we know what we're doing it'd take half the time the next time.

I had to lean on the hoop from above with a bar in order to get the front bolt back in.

Access is VERY poor, and it is soooooooo frustrating to find that the ratchet spanner is the wrong way and undoing rather than tightening.

On the other hand, the rear ARB bushes are a doddle to do.

Tim

**Gsi3.2** · 31st January 2008, 08:51

as they have said access is poor.. but there is NO reason on this earth why the subframe should have to come down to do them..

...done loads of sets now like this..

another top tip is to smear the outside of the bush in fairy liquid.. this will help the steel bridle to sit down over the bush easier..

**LAV6Y** · 2nd April 2008, 17:06

Originally Posted by spuddevans

Yes it is true, I did my ARB bushes, front and rear a few months ago. I got a set of ratchet torx spanners from halfrauds which made the job possible. It took me and my friend a couple of hours to do on my 2003 2.0Dti, but I reckon now that we know what we're doing it'd take half the time the next time.

I had to lean on the hoop from above with a bar in order to get the front bolt back in.

Access is VERY poor, and it is soooooooo frustrating to find that the ratchet spanner is the wrong way and undoing rather than tightening.

On the other hand, the rear ARB bushes are a doddle to do.

Tim

Can you help a fellow member out with a few tips to change the rear bushes??
I take it when the wheel is dropped off the bushes are obvious??

Thanks

**simac** · 2nd April 2008, 17:44

Haynes says:

To strut = 65 NM
To anti-roll bar = 65 NM

So yeah, the figures you've found sound right !

**LAV6Y** · 2nd April 2008, 19:42

Is this what the bush looks like??

Also: what do you call the bar it mounts too, is it the drop link??
Do you only need to replace the bush (generally) or does the whole bar need replaced??

Thanks

**spuddevans** · 2nd April 2008, 20:02

Originally Posted by LAV6Y

Can you help a fellow member out with a few tips to change the rear bushes??
I take it when the wheel is dropped off the bushes are obvious??

Thanks

Is this what the bush looks like?

That pic is not what the rear ARB bush looks like, it looks like the rose-bush that the Vec B's use in the rear susp'.

As far as I remember ,when you take off the rear wheel, imagine the hub is a clockface, the ARB bush is around 2 o-clock on the drivers side or 10 o-clock on the passenger side.

If you follow the Anti roll bar from the drop link you will see the ARB bush and the metal U shaped clamp that holds it in place. It has 2 torx bolts holding it on, just loosen and remove, take off the metal cover and the bush will come off easily, it is split to allow removal and re-assembly.

Tim