Vecta 1.8 ecotech stalling / idle problems

[baznap]

Hi, im new but have been reading this site for a while trying to sort my Vectra out, all very helpfull tips and im finally getting there.
Problems were as follows:-

Stalling coming upto junctions/lights etc.

1) Cleaned out TB and cleared 1mm pipe on the underside of TB.
2) Replaced idle air valve.
3) Replaced various worn/cracked pipes connecting to TB and engine. (air pipes, not water pipes)
4) Checked plugs all ok.
5) Checked all liquids and are all ok.
6) Cleaned out crap from the black box that sits on top of engine (i think it goes to the purge valve? there was ALOT of crap in there)
7) cleaned air filter / and filter thats in the round box near battery. (not sure what this is but works when engine is cold and goes off as engine warms up)
8) checked MF and all looks clean and clear.
9) reset ECU by removing leads from battery and leaving for 1hr.

problems were solved for about what felt like half a mile, but the following problems still occour.

1) Still stalls but less frequently, tends to stall while stationary.
2) when approaching junctions with cluch in idles at about 1200 rpm, once stationary comes down to 800 (ish) rpm and is perfect. needle stays constant without a glich.
3) Orange engine light is 95% of the time on. when its not on car drives perfect but will without warning judder, as if its missfiring, stall and once re-started (at 50mph once) will work but with the light on!.

im at a total loss now what to do next? are the following cheep replacement from a breakers worth trying?
1) purge valve
2) air flow sensor
3) coil pack

any help would be greatley appreciated. PS im on the tightest of buget as just had a baby (so you can imagine my fear when car is stalling at 50mph!!!)

thanks for any help it will be very much appreciated.
Barry

[merikiito]

You really do need to go to the dealers and get it the Tech II on it. There is a cheap oneon ebay which will give you codes http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OBD2-...QQcmdZViewItem

[Gsi3.2]

it sounds like the ICV still.. maybe it needs a more agressive clean?..

without codes we'll never know why the EML is on.. so get them read and i'll help all i can from down here..

[baznap]

Hi Gsi3.2
its a new ICV i put it on after cleaning the TB while it was appart.

done the school run this morning and it feels very old school rotor problem like its not firing properly. can the coil pack be tested by a garage to see if its working as it should? It looks good under the hood but while engine is running i can hear a wheeze, gonna do a thorough check of air hoses again.

one more thing if any one can help. on the TB bottom right as your looking at it there are 2 air hoses, the top on goes back into the engine and the bottom one goes to what i beleive to be the purge valve, are these the correct way?

thanks for any help.
barry

[ed taylor]

Have you replaced the leads. I had one brake down on the wifes Vectra B it would miss a beat every now and then. Mind you I have known a plug to give the same symptoms too.

[baznap]

hi again,
had a look again, pushed down on coil pack leads (while engine running) got a shock, but juddering has stopped, might have been a lead not quite plugged in correctly! will keep an eye on it.
went to breakers and they had 3 vectras, i noted where the air pipes went and checked against mine. notices mine was slightly incorrect so changed them accordingly.
light remains on but not constantly idles at 1200 rpm! will keep an eye on it and see how it goes before i spend more money.
ill re-set the ecu tomorrow morning before work and see if that cures it!

barry

[baznap]

Hello again,

i have done some more testing and found out the following.
the air line to the purge valve were indeed incorrect and i swapped them about to the correct position. car worked fine for about 3 miles (if that) and then car juddered very serverly and nearly cut out, light came on and i hobbled home.
what i did notice was that the temperature was Just 40 - 45 Deg C. this seems to be when most of my problems are occuring, 3 Ish miles from cold start. Ie first journey in the morning. or after work. i have however found the following which has to an extent answered my questions

QUOTE
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR)
EGR System
EGR system operates by returning some exhaust gases to engine
to be mixed with air/fuel mixture. This exhaust gas, which is
basically inert at this stage, lowers combustion temperature. Reducing
combustion temperature reduces amount of oxides of nitrogen (NOx)
released into atmosphere.
EGR Solenoid Valve
When engine coolant temperature is less than 115 �� F (45 �� C),
solenoid receives no current and EGR system is inactive. With engine
at operating temperature, solenoid receives current from relay and
opens vacuum line to EGR valve. EGR valve is opened completely by
negative pressure. Even the slightest throttle opening opens idle
switch. Time relay cuts current to solenoid, disconnecting EGR system
for about 5 seconds and avoiding HC and particle build-up during
acceleration from idle.
UNQUOTE

will keep trying and will keep you posted.

Barry

[Gsi3.2]

have you had it's codes read Baz?...

[baznap]

fault codes are
p0335 is this cranshaft position a
p0340 camshaft position sensor malfunction

help me please guys what should i be repairing / looking for?

[Gsi3.2]

Crankshaft and camshaft sensors are common...the faults you identified are related to the timing of the engine..

I'd swap the crankshaft sensor out...they're about £50...one bolt to hold it into place..sensor is located on the front of the crankcase about 3" in from the timing cover..

usually the crankshaft sensor goes and then the car flags both faults..