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Thread: Brake Pad Change

  1. #1
    Regular Member dti owner's Avatar
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    confused Brake Pad Change

    I followed a thread on how to change brake pads and discs, well today I changed my rear brake pads, actually really easy, but i couldnt change the discs because of 2 stupid shaped bolts so I need to what tool I need for that?. Also do you have to bleed the brake fluid because i guy in halfords said you did?. Next problem did everything as the thread said put it all back together drove my car and what do you know my brakes are slow to work and it feels like the rear ones arnt working, but when i fited them i pushed the brake pedal and the pads tightend on the disc, so what could that be? I want to rectify the problem before i do my front brakes. Please help someone

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    Regular Member mhvcbv's Avatar
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    Default

    hi
    the 2 stupid bolts are torx (i think some-one will tell you the size shortly)
    you will need a long handle bar for these as they are very tight.

    you do NOT need to bleed the brakes.

    i think the brakes are slow to work because the front brakes do most of the braking.
    change the front pads and you should feel the differance.

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    VIP-Member Johnsdutton's Avatar
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    Remember new pads don't usually work at their best until they have been bedded in usually between 50 -100 miles, so no harsh braking or speeding.
    3.2 v6 Signum and loving it

    http://www.freewebs.com/johnsdutton/

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    Regular Member dti owner's Avatar
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    I saw on a thread somewhere about brake fluid and using more of it when the pads are low, so surely because i have changed them i need to top it up and that may make a difference. also does anyone know the size of the torx bolts on the discs so that i can remove them, because im sure my car would like to have new discs aswell as the new pads not those horrible rusy ones that are on now lol

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    Regular Member david.aka.judas's Avatar
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    new pads take time to bed in, try to measure the lip of the discs, that will indicate if you need to replace them.

    to bleed if you really need to, you may not. just get a mate to press the pedal while you undo the bleed nipple, that will push any air out. do not let the fluid pot run empty it will bring air in and you will have to start again.

    when you undo the nipple dont let your mate take his foot off coz it will suck air in again.

    or you could buy and easy bleed and read the instructions.

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    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    you should not USE brakefluid, it's a sealed system...if the level donesn't return to the correct (max) limit when all the brakes are replaced, then add some more..

    You should only bleed the brakes if the fluid hasn't been changed in the last 2-3 years...but if you are in any way unsure on how to do it, take it to a garage...it's not worth doing it wrong at home..

    to echo Juda's post, the new pads on old discs will take a while to 'bed in' and feel 100%, so take it really easy and don't brake hard for the first 100 miles if you can avoid it..

    caliper carrier bolts are torx sockets E20 at the front and E18 rears.. they are VERY VERY tight and you'll need to put loctite on them when you put them back in..

    as for the guys at halfords 'advice'...they don't know squat...

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    When you wound the brake pistons back in, did you clamp the flexible pipes and release the bleed nipples to stop fluid being forced back into the master cylinder? What can sometimes happen is that the rubber seals in the master cylinder can flip over and result in poor / no brakes.

    As you've only changed the pads and not the discs yet , I wouldn't drive around too much as the pads will shape themselves to the old discs and you'll end up having to put new pads in again when you do get around to changing the discs.

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    Regular Member dti owner's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
    When you wound the brake pistons back in, did you clamp the flexible pipes and release the bleed nipples to stop fluid being forced back into the master cylinder? What can sometimes happen is that the rubber seals in the master cylinder can flip over and result in poor / no brakes.

    As you've only changed the pads and not the discs yet , I wouldn't drive around too much as the pads will shape themselves to the old discs and you'll end up having to put new pads in again when you do get around to changing the discs.

    Yeah i didnt clamp the pipe of release the bleed nipple. so what do I need to do now to sort it out? I am going to change my discs in the next couple of days, luckily my work is 5 mins drive so i wont do much damage.

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    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    i'd not worry too much about running the new pads on old discs, then going on to the new discs...if you're only doing low miles then it won't hurt..

    provididng you didn't go 'mad' winding the piston back in, it is extremely unlikely that you have reversed the seals ( they are now double lipped to avoid this)..

    if it was my car, i'd not run it round too much till i get the new discs in..then bring the pads up again and adjust the handbrake..don't worry if the pedal is still soft, as long as it pumps up hard after 3 or 2 pumps with the engine off ( proving that the brakes are working and the seals aren't flipped) .. and then change the fronts..

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    Regular Member dti owner's Avatar
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    Default

    ok well yeah the brake goes hard after 3 pumps when not moving. erm why are the brakes soft then? can i release the bleed nipple and release any air would that sort it? How do you ajust the handbrake to the brakes?

    New problem i cannot even take one of my front wheels off because of the stupid locking nut. It releases the back 2 wheels but 1 front one it won't and its starting to damage the security nut. Its a stupid McGuard wheel bolt from halfords and there based in F**king germany.

    You buy these things to protect you alloy wheels but then when you want to get a replacement its impossible

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