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Thread: 1.8 Gearbox-help/advice Needed!

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    Default 1.8 Gearbox-help/advice Needed!

    Hi All,

    Ive got the lovely job of changing my Vectra C 1.8 gearbox on an 03 plate. The problem with the old one was that the sump plate on the gearbox had cracked, allowing the gearbox oil to drain away. Needless to say, its absolutely knackered, I have taken the plate off to expose the dif, there are teeth missing with lots of shards of metal lying about.

    Anyway, Im hoping to attempt this at some point over the coming weekend. Firstly, can anyone tell me which model gearbox I will need, F18 ect?

    And secondly, is there anything I need to know before jumping in feet first, does the gearbox lift out the top or can I drop to remove, any tips or hints would be really apprecaited as I can see this being a big of a nightmare. Is there a set procedure?

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    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    F17...

    before you jump in feet first, get an engine beam, a tall sturdy set of stands, some strong mates to help you and a degree in paitence..you'll struggle less if you drop the subframe, so support the radiator/AC pack and disconnect the feeds to the steering rack and the column link...remove the exhaust downpipe..secure the engine to the beam and take up the weight..remove the driveshafts ( pop the hubs out) and the driveshaft support bearing, break the bottom balljoints to release the lower arms....unclip all the pipes etc off the subframe and get them clear.. unbolt the engine mounts and then the subframe is only held in with it's own bolts, but it will bring the rack down with it..now you can attempt the gearbox..if you don't disturb the clutch you won't need any alignment tools, but you'd be wise to have a look at it while the box is off..and inspect the hydraulic release bearing for leaks as well..better now than in 6 months time..

    if you're fairly handy with plenty of dry space and muscle, allow a full day..if it's less than ideal conditions allow a whole weekend..
    Last edited by Gsi3.2; 29th October 2007 at 20:01. Reason: getting me facts right..

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    Default Vectra C 03 Gearbox

    Thanks for your advice mate.

    It's not just a case of lowering the gearbox side of the engine and leaving the drivers side engine mount in place then like on some motors then?

    All I need to know now then (hopefully) is what quantity of gearbox oil is required to fill the new box, and do you fill the diff seperate to the actual box itself?

    I'll let you know how I get on, wish me luck!

    Thanks

    D

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    Regular Member Gsi3.2's Avatar
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    nope, you can't just let one side of the gearbox down..the subframe will block it's travel....the diff and gearbox use the same oil, so just fill in one place..

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    Any advice on how to deal with the twonk next door that has just driven in to side of it? How's your luck!!

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    sounds like your luck is the same as mine today.....time to 'invite' him to get his wallet out..

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    Quick updat, Ive finally got the old box off and Im currently waiting for a new slave cylinder to be delivered before I reassemble with the new clutch etc. Three questions...

    1-as I have disconnected the steering rack, when topping up the power steering fluid, is it just a case of leave the cap off the reservoir and turn to full lock both ways to bleed the steering system?

    2-Where do you refill the clutch fluid?

    3-And finally, is there an easy (set method) to reconnecting the gear selector assembly on top of the box to ensure that its in the same gear as the gear leaver inside the car?

    So close, but yet so far...........................

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    1, yes... top the reservoir up, lock to lock a few times, then recheck the level and correct to bleed..

    2: it fills from the brake master cylinder reservoir..pressure bleed the clutch in the same way you'd do the brakes and the nipple is by the hydraulic union..

    3: if you haven't disturbed the cables lenght then they should reconnect in the same manner as when the where removed..where did you disconnect the gearchange mechanism on the old box?..

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    thanks mate,

    point 3, I just literally removed the four small bolts holding the whole selector unit to the top of the geabox lifted it clear before then removing the box itself. See the thing is, Im not sure that the replacement box Im putting on is already in neutral.

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    right, it's play with the selector time.... you'll be needing to make sure that as you turn the input shaft by hand, there is no movement on the output's of the diff...time for a brew and a play......just work the selector by hand as you turn.. you'll soon figure it..

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