Vectra C 2.0 DTİ not start

**ludovico57** · 28th August 2023, 01:08

Hi everyone,

My vehicle is vectra c 2003 model 2.0 DTİ. Last year the car oil cooler exploded. The engine was rebuilt because it was an oil/water mixture. But the car didn't start. The master said that he started the car by hitting it. But he could not finish the car repair. We took it to a different master. Oda said that the engine did not turn and the engine would be rebuilt. We had it done. The car still didn't start. Both masters said that there may be a problem with the fuel pump.We were unable to make this change due to both cost and the need to code the used part. We took the vehicle to another master, the car has been there for 2 months. The master has not yet looked at the car as he is busy. In order not to waste time during this time, I had the ignition system cables disconnected. I had it repaired by another master. This week he will lay the plumbing again. Then we will try to start the tool again. They see this vehicle as chronically problematic in Turkey. Most of the masters did not want to repair the car. I have been following this forum for a long time and looking for a solution to my problem. Finally, I became a member of the forum and decided to make my voice heard. Please help me.

List of errors that the vehicle has given before

P0340-FC
P0070-71
P0380-04
P0380-0C
P0195-07

**northpole** · 28th August 2023, 06:48

all your fault codes are ECU related... i would check the ecu on the vp44 pump ( the connectors of the ecu and the cable to the ecu) if all fails use the original one... also car not being able to start, after a rebuild of the engine could be a simple problem with air in the fuel system, or either the crankshaft- or camshaft position sensor is not connected or defective. These old DTI's don't self bleed, so what they needed to do is loosen the injectors nuts to let the air escape when someone is turning the engine over...once that is done and it won't start off the key... usually a tow start will work. Providing the ecu isn't a problem and both camshaft and crankshaft sensor can be read by the ecu.

**horaa** · 28th August 2023, 06:49

As far i know P0340-FC is related to the infamous pump. The rest of the error can be ignored as they are not important(temperature errors and glowplugs)

**ludovico57** · 12th September 2023, 20:50

Hello, I did not have the opportunity to try your recommendations. We got the car ready to start. The engine locked up as soon as we started it for the first time. The mechanic removed the engine and the situation was not pleasant. A new engine was needed. I have it now. This week we will pack the car and try to start it again. I have new questions for you;

1.jpg 4.jpg

So far I have not received any pump fault codes or similar errors. Experts who handle this job say that if there is no fault code, your diesel pump is working. Now I will install the old pump on the new engine. To avoid getting an immobilizer error. The new engine I bought also has a diesel pump. If my diesel pump is faulty, how can I use this new diesel pump? How is the coding process done? What steps should I follow?

5.jpg

**northpole** · 13th September 2023, 07:47

you'll need to have a bench setup and clone your old pump's ecu... than you flash ( read overwrite) the ecu on the pump that has come from the new engine.... to do all of this you'll need at least KESS v2 as that is the most reliable flashing tool for these ecu's... sure there are a few others that are available but most people have this done at a specialist because the chance of ending up with a bricked VP44 edc16 ECU is very high.

So i won't tell you it's a simple task... and no it can not be done through the OBD2 port... the ecu needs to be opened up than you need to attach the breakout wire to certain connections on the ecu to do the job (that is the reason why it is done on a bench)

So reuse your old pump if it's working fine, if it doesn't find a dieselpump specialist so they can clone your old pumps ECU to the replacement pump.

**horaa** · 13th September 2023, 08:28

That valves looks bad, like really really bad

**northpole** · 14th September 2023, 07:24

Originally Posted by horaa

That valves looks bad, like really really bad

I didn't comment on the engine for the simple reason that if that is the replacement engine internals i wouldn't even buy it. That said it doesn't look to bad... it probably has been sitting for a longtime hence the rust on the surfaces...

**ludovico57** · 20th September 2023, 21:26

Hi! I have good news for you. Finally the car started. We still have problems.

The car blew smoke after starting. After working for 3 hours intermittently, the smoke decreased. There are still some but really few. Currently there are the following errors. The car did not exceed 3000 rpm at first. It is much better now, but there is low traction. I think errors P0638 and P0660 are related to this. While the engine was being assembled, 1 sensor remained idle. For this reason, we think that the engine is protecting itself. What do you think we should do about these problems? Is there any other reason for the low traction? Thank you for all your help.

error codes

P0070 (continually)
P1483 (intermittent)
P0638 (continually)
P0660 (continually)

**northpole** · 21st September 2023, 07:29

P0638 =throttle sensor (pedal position) yeah that will cause the car to go into limpmode... aka not going past 3k rpm.
P0660 = intake manifold tuning valve circuit open (aka the flap mechanism in the intake) check the connection to it worstcase take the old electric bits from your old engine and swap them over
once you sort these 2 out the car will run normally

P0070 = ambient air temperature sensor.... probably the thing isn't connected but won't cause the car to go into limp mode ( the outside one is in the bumper, the interior sensor is somewhere around the mirror)
p1438 = A/C Evaporator Air temperature Circuit Range/ Performance not weird if the interior temp sensor isn't working.. but not a limp-mode trigger...

basically if you sortout P0070 the P1438 will go away.