Z19DT where is the Engine control module?

[rodor]

The car is very hard to start, but once it gets going, it runs beautifully. It seems the problem is slightly less when the engine is warm, but the difference is marginal. It sets two codes:

P0340-28 Camshaft position sensor circuit range/performance
P0380-08 Glow device general error

Since it is summer, and also the problem does not go away with a warm engine, I have focused on the cam sensor message for now. I have found that there is no 12V on any of the three pins in the sensor's connector with the ignition on.

Now I need to find the other end of the wire that is supposed to deliver power to the cam sensor. According to Haynes Autofix, this is the engine control module. But their information on where it is located is incorrect.

Where do I find the ECM?

The car is a left-hand drive, if it matters. We bought the car like this, and the previous owner says it has been like this for as long as he can remember.

[sulten]

The ECU is located in the front right corner, behind and above the fog light.
The camshaft sensor is a 5V sensor, not 12V

[rodor]

The ECU is located in the front right corner, behind and above the fog light.

Thanks. Will I need to remove the front bumper cover to get at it? I don't have the car with me at the moment, so I can't take a look right away.

The camshaft sensor is a 5V sensor, not 12V

You may have saved me from cooking that sensor. I was considering connecting 12V directly to it. Thank you.

I can't believe how many errors there are in that Haynes Autofix product. I have only just started using it, and I have already found several errors. They have also swapped the positive and negative terminals for this sensor.

Wrong information is worse than no information. I'm going to demand my money back.

[sulten]

Thanks. Will I need to remove the front bumper cover to get at it? I don't have the car with me at the moment, so I can't take a look right away.

You can see it from underside, and access the connector, not sure if you can remove the ecu with out removing the bumper cover.

[rodor]

So, the conclusion is ready:

The bad voltage measurement turned out to be a false lead. I don't exactly know what went wrong. Bad probing, maybe. In a new measurement, with an oscilloscope, we could see a perfect signal from the cam sensor. If we disconnected the sensor, a different code would set: "P0340-20 Camshaft position sensor Circuit open". This, along with the oscilloscope result, suggested the fault was a cam/crank correlation issue. So, we bought a new crank sprocket and bolt. On disassembly, our suspicion was confirmed. The little knob inside the sprocket was sheared off, and the sprocket had moved on the crankshaft. We even found the sheared piece still sitting in the notch in the end of the crank. Fortunately, the crank is much harder steel, so it was not damaged.

After repair, the car would start much better, but still not right. A new starter cured the problem completely. It now starts easily, even on a nippy autumn morning with no preheat.

So, if you see the "P0340-28 Camshaft position sensor circuit range/performance", it is a serious problem and needs to be addressed urgently. It represents a cam/crank correlation fault. Do not throw a cam sensor on it without checking, as it will probably not solve the problem. The fault code could be caused by a slipped timing belt or a slipped crank sprocket. A slipped cam sprocket will not trigger this fault code, since the cam sensor measures the sprocket position, not the actual cam (bad design choice).

The locating method for the cam sprocket is a terrible design. The key is not a proper Woodruff key. It is simply a tiny notch machined into the end of the crank, and a corresponding protrusion cast into the sprocket. No wonder it failed. The new sprocket was installed with the updated torque of 340 Nm (left handed), in addition to some Loctite retaining compound. Fingers crossed.

The locating method of the cam sprocket on the camshaft is a very similar design to the crank.

The "P0380-08 Glow device general error" was simply because of a blown glow plug. We replaced all four, but only one of them was actually bad. Replacing the glow plugs did, as expected, not make any difference to the hard start condition.