-
New Member
Vectra c 1.8 cooling fan problem
The cooling fan does not kick in when water reaches 90° so coolant comes out of the expansion tank and the coolant light comes on so needs topping up. The fan has been on a machine for testing and was told it is ok so was was more than likely an electrical fault. Last year I had water pooling in the passenger footwell then figured out it was a blocked drainage hole by the wipers. Would this of been related or is that a dumb question?
The heater works fine.
Thanks for any help you can give.
-
Is it supposed to come on at 90? Can’t remember what mines set at but normal running temp is 90, have you searched for other 1.8 posts on water temps and fan coming on? Sounds like the coolant cap needs replacing.
I don’t know who did your testing but it sounds like I know more about car engines than they do given the story above.
Yes it is a dumb question a scuttle drain hole being related to a coolant system issue.
I would guess you’ve not looked at others posts yet as this thread has been created in the header section for troubleshooting not in the engine and drive train so have a look in there.
Last edited by Dog_Book; 22nd May 2022 at 09:21.
Vectra VXR estate 2007 Sapphire Black
Teapot Tuned 255/300
Eibachs B8's, fully loaded factory options
Tech2 & MDI diagnostics + SPS
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 2 Likes
-
That has nothing to do with it... that just means the drain holes were clogged so the water came rushing down the cabin filters housing and in doing so flooded the interior and the interior fan....
3 things you need to check the thermal switch on the fans themselves replace the cap on the expansion tank and of course the cooling system itself. check the NS of the engine where the waterpump is located for coolant leaks... especially if the bottom engine compartment protector is still in place. It hides any leakage...
Than there is the flow of both the radiator and interior heater matrix that need to be checked... they might be blocked... but you can buy a coolant flushing agent from any motor factor run that drop the coolant and replace it with fresh new coolant...
That is all that should be done to solve the problem,but 9 put of 10 times the thermal switch is the problem or bad wiring when there are no leaks or blockages in the coolant system.
Note the expansion cap has been designed to release pressure and if that has failed you can have the same symptoms as what you are describing here. And if it is that well be ready to pull off the timing cover to check the waterpump as that probably is leaking because of said pressure.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
You should look in hidden menu in order to get the right engine temperature...dashboard gauge indications are somehow funny...these engines are running ordinarily at 107 C degrees(especially on summer days), even you'll see only max. 92 on your gauge, but that's Ok, this is how is designed to work as far as you're entire cooling system is doing its job.
As @northpole already mentioned I would check firstly radiator thermal switch: it is placed on the bottom right corner of radiator with 2 wires on it, somehow in same zone with water pump. Also expansion tank cap should be in perfect working condition otherwise your cooling system will be messed up.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Mine normally kicks in at the last line before the red ( if that makes sense ) Twice it didn't - once it was seized ( you can put 12v to it and check it works ) the other time it was the fan control unit on the radiator pack
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Originally Posted by
troutybrown
Change expansion cap
I’ve already said that, but seems to have been ignored as I didn’t get a reply
Vectra VXR estate 2007 Sapphire Black
Teapot Tuned 255/300
Eibachs B8's, fully loaded factory options
Tech2 & MDI diagnostics + SPS
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 2 Likes
-
New Member
Originally Posted by
bibu16v
You should look in hidden menu in order to get the right engine temperature...dashboard gauge indications are somehow funny...these engines are running ordinarily at 107 C degrees(especially on summer days), even you'll see only max. 92 on your gauge, but that's Ok, this is how is designed to work as far as you're entire cooling system is doing its job.
As @
northpole already mentioned I would check firstly radiator thermal switch: it is placed on the bottom right corner of radiator with 2 wires on it, somehow in same zone with water pump. Also expansion tank cap should be in perfect working condition otherwise your cooling system will be messed up.
I agree, mine kicks in at 105 degrees exactly
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
Bookmarks