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13th January 2021, 18:58
#1
Regular Member
Car won't start
So had the dreaded text message today from the other half, Morning the car won't start !!!!
Got home from work this evening, got in the car (sri Z18ZER) switched on the ignition and eml light flashed rapidly think 8 times then stayed on.
Guessing this telling me there are stored codes ?
Does this mean there are 8 codes ?
Right, car turns over but will not start.
Thinking Fuel Pump as there was no "priming" whirring noise when ignition switch on.
Fuse for the pump in the boot is ok, anywhere else I should look before trying to get to the pump to see if it has a voltage ?
Before going out and doing the pedal test, wanted to find out if I need to do at least 8 codes ?
Guessing I could have loads of old codes stored ? eml hasn't been on tho'
Cheers
Shaun
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13th January 2021, 19:16
#2
Read codes properly with tools we've been talking about for a long time otherwise your guessing
Vectra VXR estate 2007 Sapphire Black
Teapot Tuned 255/300
Eibachs B8's, fully loaded factory options
Tech2 & MDI diagnostics + SPS
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13th January 2021, 19:29
#3
Regular Member
Not got the budget for a Tech2, and the last time I looked the cheaper options from the "bay" etc don't run from a mac.
Better go check now so I maybe back hanging my head in shame !
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13th January 2021, 20:13
#4
Have a look at fuses under bonnet
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14th January 2021, 12:01
#5
If it's the car/spanner light, then flashing indicates there is an immobiliser fault.
Reason why it's not starting is because the key isn't being recognised.
This info is mentioned in the handbook.
Have you got a spare key you can try?
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14th January 2021, 12:21
#6

Originally Posted by
ShaunB
the cheaper options from the "bay" etc don't run from a mac.
all the macbooks now use standard pc hardware, meaning you can create a dual boot setup with windows 10... on your macbook.. meaning you have the right gear you just need to run it natively as i tried to run it before on a macbook virtually and that doesn't work right (the virtual port to hardware bridge doesn't work properly in a virtual environment) but you can create a dual boot system and than you can use that...
another option is to use an andriod device with BT, an ELM327BT OBD2 device and some software of the google playstore called ScanMyOpelCan... the cheapest ELM327BT is around 5 pounds send to your home, the software is free, unless you want to wipe the fault codes, than it cost you 8 pounds a year... i use it and it's the only software that actually reads my ECU on my half-canbus 2.0 DTI... it only has Engine, CIM,ABS and automatic gearbox options but all in all it does the job quite well...
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14th January 2021, 16:54
#7
Regular Member

Originally Posted by
Big Dave
If it's the car/spanner light, then flashing indicates there is an immobiliser fault.
Reason why it's not starting is because the key isn't being recognised.
This info is mentioned in the handbook.
Have you got a spare key you can try?
It's the other engine light but already ahead of you there, had exactly that issue on a previous Vectra, my one worked but the other half's didn't (I had great joy in telling her the car just didn't like her !!!!!) so used both keys "just in case"

Originally Posted by
northpole
all the macbooks now use standard pc hardware, meaning you can create a dual boot setup with windows 10... on your macbook.. meaning you have the right gear you just need to run it natively as i tried to run it before on a macbook virtually and that doesn't work right (the virtual port to hardware bridge doesn't work properly in a virtual environment) but you can create a dual boot system and than you can use that...
another option is to use an andriod device with BT, an ELM327BT OBD2 device and some software of the google playstore called ScanMyOpelCan... the cheapest ELM327BT is around 5 pounds send to your home, the software is free, unless you want to wipe the fault codes, than it cost you 8 pounds a year... i use it and it's the only software that actually reads my ECU on my half-canbus 2.0 DTI... it only has Engine, CIM,ABS and automatic gearbox options but all in all it does the job quite well...
Oh blast, hangs head in shame............. thanks for the heads up
So, hopefully Tech2 via a friend either tonight or tomorrow (depending on his work commitments) just to make sure,
Pedal test has thrown up
0564 cruise control issue, known about that as it can trip out. Needs removing and cleaning I hope
0601 ecu hopefully find out more later
0615 Starter relay circuit........
0684 ????? maybe miss counted but,
await the real diagnosis with the proper tools,
Thanks guys
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Regular Member
Just an update to see if anybody can throw some light on a couple of issues.
So friend comes out in the evening, quick check on the fuel pump to make sure its all working fine (which it is) reads all the stored codes. Whilst reading these, he's sat in the car and I'm stood outside and the brake lights are on !
Anyway clears codes and turn the car over, to see what flashes up. Wanted to make sure things like the crank sensor is not stopping the car from starting, reading whilst cranking, so all good.
Not sure the numbers but something ecu and starter relay again, and some others. Brake lights still on !
Quick dig around behind the pedal to make sure the brake light switch is ok, all seems normal.
Anyway various tests on the starter relay, power to pins etc this is all working fine.
So we ran out of time.
I came in and searched about for brake lights staying on when ignition is on.
Found some info on a 10a fuse in the engine bay which is for brake light circuit, reads that if this fuse is blown the lights will be on. Is this correct ?
This fuse (F14) also has a path to the ecu ? Is this correct ?
Anyway checked the fuse, all fine !
Whilst doing this had the other half outside and had her turn the car over, when she put the ignition on (the original eml flashing) this corresponded with some clicking from the fuse box (relay trying to work?), or so I thought but on further investigation it seems to come from, what I think, is the ABS control unit behind the battery compartment.
Did some more searching and looks like this ABS control can cause starting issues, need to remove the big black "plug" on the top and get some switch cleaner apparently !
Battery is now flat, hopefully over the weekend get it charged (and a powerpack on hand) to see were I go next.......
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