Vectra C Rear Calipers.

[Castiel]

Hey all.

Found some answers i was looking for on other threads but one thing i cannot seem to find.

My rear left brake caliper has been showing signs of seizing and due to family commitment i have, well i suppose the only way to say it is, ignored it.

Now it's time to fix it. I have already fitted two new rear brake discs and full set of rear brake pads.

The piston was sticking and stiff to move but did move, now it's basically seized. I have sourced a caliper repair kit with new pistons and have ordered it.

One thing i need know. On some models the brake line/pipe goes into the back of the caliper. Means you undo the brake line and use a punch to tap out the piston. Mine has the brake line fitted to the top of the caliper housing. I was thinking of using the brake pedal to push it out as far as i can then "pulling" it out.

It might be tough going but will this work or is there a better way. I have had the entire unit off before but never noticed if there was any sort of inspection port/hole to use to tap out the piston.

Also some models have the piston with the "flat" piece facing inward, into the housing, while others (mine included) have the flat face outward towards the brake pad. Are there internals or is it just the "hollow" piston.

Never completely stripped the caliper before hence the questions.

Thanks in advance for any input.

[bigmac]

Would it not of been cheaper and easier just to replace both calipers? I’m sure the kit was quite cheap but time and effort compared to replacing? I’ve seen some cheap ones on eBay plus our membership includes a trade card for money off at stealers

[Castiel]

Joys of being disabled. Working on a fixed income at all times.

New calipers (and not forgetting i'm in Ireland where everything is taxed to death as well as being more expensive because, you know, its Ireland) start at €110 per caliper. The kit costs €50. Believe me its not my first choice, however the alternative is to wait a few weeks, get the few quid together and buy two new calipers, which as i'm talking about it might be the better solution.

Still, i'm curious if the old ones can be stripped, or more accurately how one would go about it (removing the piston part is all i need).

[Jon1796]

They twist out there on a thread.
You can get a tool to help or mollers on or make something to fit the holes.


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[Castiel]

I have a push back kit, but may have to use something a little "stronger" as when i used it to fit the new brakes (and discs) i bent the bar on my tool trying to push the piston back in.

But good to know and thanks.

Had the night to think about it and i believe i may just go with bigmac's idea and get the new ones. Can "mess around" with the old ones when i replace them.

[JagRigger]

Resealed mine a couple of years ago and popped the pistons onto a block of wood whilst still on the car ( pads out ) Should have just changed them as there must have been some grit or something in them, as one let go a few months later - amazingly I didn't loose any fluid as such. Got a low warning on the dash, and the N/S rear dust cover had swollen like a balloon - full of fluid - at which point I threw in the towel and went for an exchange pair from GSF - around £100 with exchange and their 'deals'

[Castiel]

I have sourced a caliper repair kit with new pistons and have ordered it.

Seems the motoring Gods are with ye lads.

Got an e-mail last night to say i still had the seal kit in my basket and instructions on how to finish the order. When i checked the site, and my bank, the order did not process so i haven't actually ordered them.

Then i get another e-mail, newsletter, from a motor factor site i use frequently and they are having a sale with up to 45% of various parts including braking parts. So i can order two new calipers for €140 (£120) instead of the regular price of €260.

So i've ordered them.

Thanks for the help and information.

[Castiel]

Quick update and hopefully as quick a question.

Got the new calipers and fitted them. All good and the handbrake is holding perfectly now. The brake pedal was a little soft, so i went back and bled the brakes and the pedal was much firmer. There was little to no air a few bleeds had it done on both sides. I also checked/bled the front ones too, just to be sure.

Thats the update, now for the question.

I noticed even after bleeding, with the car running but stationary, that the pedal was "soft" and went down a little more than i'm used to but not in one go. It would go down the "remembered" amount then slowly drop a little more. However when i drove at low speeds and touched the pedal it was much firmer and, from muscle memory, exactly where it should be. I took it for a spin out on the "main road" and the brakes are perfect. Got home, car running but stationary and the pedal is firm but will go down a little more when held, but do so slowly.

Now it never reaches it the floor, and i know the difference between a poor pedal and a correct one however it seems the brakes are back to normal as soon as i start to move, but a bit softer when stationary. Does this seem right (if you can follow my explanation)? Is the car designed to have a firmer pedal when moving and not so much when stationary.

I also only push the pedal once so as not to engage the ABS. In other words its not a touch of the pedal and then a harder, second, push.

As i think back, it done something similar before i changed the calipers. Almost like the car knows i wasn't moving so "backed off" the pressure of the pedal if i pushed the pedal harder, while stationary.

Excuse the noobie question. I've done plenty of brakes over the years and bled plenty of cars, but i'm just double checking as i've never actually removed and replaced entire calipers and not on a Vectra.