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17th July 2019, 09:12
#11
once you got opcom erase the faults and try and start it again... it won't since it's a non runner but all real issues will show up...
PS throttle body errors could be as simple as you taking it of and cleaning it.. not just the valve but check the gears inside the motor.. if they are missing teeth than you need to replace it, if they don't than it is just so dirty it doesn't move within spec and that means you can clean it (use brake -or carburettor cleaner)
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17th July 2019, 09:36
#12
Regular Member
Originally Posted by
northpole
it won't since it's a non runner but all real issues will show up
Apologies if my definition of "non-runner" wasn't strictly correct ... the car does actually start and idle... but it idles badly. and it's in limp mode, so I cant rev past 3000
Originally Posted by
northpole
throttle body errors could be as simple as you taking it of and cleaning it.. not just the valve but check the gears inside the motor
This is good news (... i think)! Hoping for the best... but not getting carried away... this was always gonna be something of a project for me to get it going.
My plan of action was gonna be to find out whatever I can about these codes and then list them in order of how easy it is to attempt a fix ... then tackle the easiest one first, and move down the list.
I've only done minor things on cars in the past (oil change, filters, clean ICV, that kinda stuff), so I have to take baby steps
But, like i said, i am ready to give things a shot (after learning as much as I can)
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17th July 2019, 12:16
#13
you might want to bookmark this page for reference and seeing how to fix stuff on your engine... i know it is for the Astra H but they had the same engine so repairs, timing marks, procedures, needed tools etc are all on there since it is a workshop manual.
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17th July 2019, 15:45
#14
Regular Member
Originally Posted by
northpole
you might want to bookmark
this page for reference and seeing how to fix stuff on your engine... I know it is for the astra h but they had the same engine so repairs, timing marks, procedures, needed tools etc are all on there since it is a workshop manual.
niiice!!
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18th July 2019, 07:27
#15
Regular Member
Originally Posted by
Inevitability
303 01 = engine misfire Cyl 3
1191 5A : fuel pump or pressure regulator (as mentioned above)
0105 06 : MAP sensor
0120 02 : throttle body
1550 01 : throttle body fail
1112 64 : swirl flaps malfunction
0460 71 : fuel gauge reading incorrect
Updated info on my fault codes after further Googling and reading forums...
P0303 01 : engine misfire Cyl 3
P1191 5A : Fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Sounds more like the regulator cos the car does start and holds an idle, abeit badly… need to check voltage at the fuel pressure sensor. If it’s more than 1.2V, then fuel pressure regulator is possibly dead.
P0105 06 : MAP sensor , try to clean it and see what happens.
P0120 02 : throttle valves / pedal position sensor switch ; clean and hope
P1550 01 : electronic throttle control reduced power ; I think this means the car has been put to limp mode
P1112 64 : swirl flaps malfunction
P0460 71 : fuel gauge reading incorrect
So I got my OBD2 scanner yesterday and hooked it up. But I used the Torque Lite version... just to make sure it connects and i can do useful things. No point paying for the Pro if it doesn't do the job.
Strange thing is that only 2 error codes showed up, P0303 and P0301... the rest don't show up.
I cleared them, and then read them again , and it showed no fault codes.
But then I re-tried the "pedal test" and am getting fault codes on the display : 1191, 1112 , 0301 , which are not showing up on Torque.
And the car is definitely still in limp mode on startup.
So I'm just gonna wait for the OP-COM to arrive and scan again.
In the meantime, it looks like the MAP sensor fault is the easiest one to tackle, so I'm gonna see what I can find about removing and cleaning it . It's winter here, and sunset is just after I get home from work, and I don't have a closed garage to park the car... so there's so little time to do anything useful except if it involves sitting inside the car, unless I wanna freeze my <ahem> off.
Hmmm... than gives me an idea... Think i'll sit down with the fuse box diagram and check all the fuses today.
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18th July 2019, 09:57
#16
About the fuses I had some problems on my vectra and even though the fuses looked fine some of them had to much resistance.... I replaces them with new ones... than I bought myself a **** load of extra fuses and replaced every single one in my car. No more electrical gremlins after that.
You might want to do the same... but my car is from 16 years old... and was 13 years old when I decided to replace every single fuse... it stopped blowing light bulbs, voltage on the main power is now steady 12v not fluctuating etc... all these things were a first for me I never encountered this on any other car... also I had to clean the UEC on my car... that took care of my constant foglights bulbs malfunctioning.
But since yours is a Zafira you might not have the UEC (it is the fusebox in the engine compartment)
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18th July 2019, 10:28
#17
Regular Member
Originally Posted by
northpole
About the fuses I had some problems on my vectra and even though the fuses looked fine some of them had to much resistance.... I replaces them with new ones... than I bought myself a **** load of extra fuses and replaced every single one in my car. No more electrical gremlins after that.
You might want to do the same... but my car is from 16 years old... and was 13 years old when I decided to replace every single fuse... it stopped blowing light bulbs, voltage on the main power is now steady 12v not fluctuating etc... all these things were a first for me I never encountered this on any other car... also I had to clean the UEC on my car... that took care of my constant foglights bulbs malfunctioning.
But since yours is a Zafira you might not have the UEC (it is the fusebox in the engine compartment)
That's a good idea... definitely will do it. Fuses are dirt cheap anyways, so there's no downside to doing it.
I have the main fuse box at the back and a second box under the hood.
How did you clean it? ... Disconnect battery and spray like mad with carb cleaner? Or do you mean taking the whole thing apart?
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18th July 2019, 11:54
#18
I took the thing apart... and found some slightly corroded bits... cleaned it off with an electrical cleaner and a few cotton buds looked a lot better afterwards.. but if you don't have electrical problems... a good electrical cleaner should do the trick, spray it liberally and as well as you can and let it dry properly before reconnecting the battery... that should get rid of any crud and old dirt. My mate did the same on his Astra G and was surprised with the amount of dirt that came out... PS he didn't have any problems he just thought the car is old and I have seen what can be in there so best to give it a preventive clean..
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28th July 2019, 18:20
#19
Regular Member
Ok, so after more reading I tried something...
I disconnected the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the car immediately comes out of limp mode.
I'm hoping this is the clear sign that the FPR being the issue. I'm lucky to have the Continental High Pressure Fuel Pump on my car.
Anyways... I'm still waiting for the OP-COM to arrive to confirm it using the method that I've seen being prescribed, which is to disconnect the FPR and then use OP-COM to read the fuel pressure voltage.
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31st July 2019, 09:48
#20
Regular Member
Ok, so this is unrelated to the running of the car, but it's still part of the project.
Got myself up to the car's roof cos i wanted to clean it up, and i found that the grooves on the inner side of the roof racks were chock-full of small leaves, some kind of tiny seed, and some kind of hair-like flower strands.
I wonder if there's supposed to be those exposed grooves there to catch debris, or if something is missing (maybe those grooves are meant to be filled with a rubber?)
Zafira roof 2.jpeg
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