Rear engine mount (Z20NET)

[08estate]

I'm feeling some vibration through the gearstick and pedals/floor and had a friend rev the engine when I noticed the engine moving front to back more than it should so checked out the engine mounts - or the 'torque arms' as the Haynes manual refers to them!

Rear mount is a bit perished. Nothing major - it's not falling apart but there is some cracking in the rubber. Thought I'd change the front one too as they seem to be a more common failure.

Replaced the front one today. Very easy job done in 10 minutes. Surprised to find the old one still looks perfect and flex seems the same as the new replacement part.

Was going to change the rear one but the downpipe seems to be in the way of the bolt that goes through the mount rubber

I don't really want to remove the downpipe but if I have to then OK. Is there a way around it?

Also, I didn't have much luck feeling around for the top of the bolts that go through the subframe - it was getting dark by this point. I guess you need to access these through the engine bay? All seems pretty awkward.

[08estate]

Thinking about this some more...

It seems pretty dumb that the bolt through the mount wasn't installed the other way around - ie. if the bolt was pushed through from the NS and the nut fitted next to the downpipe, there would be no issue.

Hoping that when the two bolts securing the mount to the subframe are removed that there's enough flex in the deteriorated mount rubber and play in the unsecured mount structure for the bolt to clear the downpipe. I'll give it a go and refit the bolt that goes through the mount rubber in reverse - unless anyone can think of any reason I shouldn't do that?!

[LastOne]

I once bought four new mounts for my Z20NET, just as preventative maintenance. When it came to removing the back one, I found it impossible like you have. I concluded that it can only be fitted or removed with the subframe and engine lowered out of the car.

[08estate]

I once bought four new mounts for my Z20NET, just as preventative maintenance. When it came to removing the back one, I found it impossible like you have. I concluded that it can only be fitted or removed with the subframe and engine lowered out of the car.

Looking at the Haynes manual for the Vectra 2.2 which seems to share the same mounts as the Z20NET, it says the downpipe has to be removed but doesn't mention anything about the subframe. The photo suggests it's possible to access the bolts from the rear of the subframe but it didn't seem possible when I was feeling around with the front jacked up! I'll give it a go tomorrow with the rear on ramps - there's often a way around the 'correct' method that achieves the same goal Surely the Z20NET wouldn't use a engine specific front subframe!?

The Saab 9-3 manual that I use for specific engine related stuff (at least the closest available) isn't much use in this case. Saab used 'torque arms' on the rear left and right and no front mount, so that's a completely different arrangement for the mostly identical B207 engine.

[08estate]

Looking at it again today, the two bolts through the subframe are accessible through the engine bay. No way from behind the subframe. It looks really awkward as one bolt head is very close to the steering rack and is obscured from view by one of the power steering hoses. This is a job that would be so much easier with two people - one to counter-hold the top of the bolts while the other undoes the nuts under the car. So, that's a job for the weekend.

Still not sure if the other bolt will be possible to remove without first removing the downpipe but I'll find out

[Jon1796]

Changed mine a few times on the 2.8 to get it powered coated.
Undo roll bar links.
Undo front engine mount.
Drop the front end a bit then the back end, three bolts on the flex you flange and drop it out the way.
Then rear mount.
Undo the 2 bolts on rack don’t loose washers.
Then you’ve got a chance to unbolt rear mount.
Might have to drop sub frame more to get bolts out. You can do it by yourself dropping it off but a right arse ache to get it back up again trust me lol


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[08estate]

Changed mine a few times on the 2.8 to get it powered coated.
Undo roll bar links.
Undo front engine mount.
Drop the front end a bit then the back end, three bolts on the flex you flange and drop it out the way.
Then rear mount.
Undo the 2 bolts on rack don’t loose washers.
Then you’ve got a chance to unbolt rear mount.
Might have to drop sub frame more to get bolts out. You can do it by yourself dropping it off but a right arse ache to get it back up again trust me lol

I'm starting to see why there's not much info around about how to change these mounts. Sounds like a right PITA.

Thanks for the advice. There's a fair bit of room around the back of the engine in the 2.0T (apart from the turbo bit!) so the rearmost bolt is quite plain to see and looks like it would come out without messing with the subframe. The other bolt is only hard to see as one of the PAS hoses is in my line of sight but it is visible when leaning right over the engine and seems to have a clear path up & out...

but you've done the job and I haven't so I'll approach the job with your advice in mind. Still, I'm hoping that the VXR is just more difficult as it's so tight in that engine bay

[Ian-Highlander]

When I did mine many years back now, on the Z20NET, all I did was disconnect the downpipe and undo the bolts holding it on the engine bracket and moved it to one side, it was enough to get to the bolts without fully removing it.