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4th April 2019, 21:51
#11
Regular Member
You have a point on the pictures. To be sorted soon. The roof lights don't work. Oddly enough, the swapping of the switches made all the other bits work. So, Its just the roof lights.
Old car or not, I've always quite liked everything to work on all of my motors, mainly toys, as it were, coz I could never afford/bring myself to lash out oodles of cash on something really new.
Oh and I teach Biology and Chemistry and a bit of Physics when I need to. But only until July. Then, I'm retiring. Probably to another part time job. Mortgage to pay. Still. The Vectra stays.
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20th August 2019, 14:44
#12
Regular Member
So, partly to keep a record somewhere, over the last week or three, I've managed to do the following bits.
Removed and cleaned the EGR and MAP sensor. The garage i used to use told me that maybe the replacement EGR from just before I bought the car was a duff cheapo one. It isn't. So I cleaned it properly (covering myself in c%£p when I hit it with carb cleaner and it blew back at me). The MAP sensor was cruddy too.
Replaced the £19.00 (each) VX EGR bolts with stainless ones (£$.40 from B and Q for 10!!!). Thanks for the suggestion Dog Book.
Cleaned and Waxoyl/Hammerite undersealed all brake pies in the wheel arches. The ones underbody are all new to the car before I bought it and look mint, but I will be doing the same when we get back from the Lakes.
Cleaned down, rust treated and then undersealed as much of the rear subframe as I could get at. Tow bar left in place and similarly treated, since I don't really want to interfere with any wiring bits until I properly know my way around. Also, It does act as a sort of low speed extra bumper!
I then took it in today for a new tyre, since thaere seems to be a little cracking in the o/s rear tyre, sort of inside the tread, even though it's only 12 months old and still very meaty. On closer inspection, it looks ok, but I will replace the back axle set for Falkens, when I know how cash will pan out (now I'm semi-retired). But the tyre guys noticed that the fronts were scrubbing a little and sorted the tracking.
The same chaps also replaced a front drop ling to the anti roll bar, which I had paid for to be replaced by my ex-garage back in March. It clearly hadn't been touched, or the rate of rusting in Staffs Moorlands is defying the laws of chemistry!
Whilst it was up on the ramp I had a look at the pipe to the DPF, which is used by the DPF sensor to see if it had any splits, but couldn't find any. The diagnostic at ex-garage said negative pressure, which suggests that the pipe is split, they said. So, the next step will have to be to replace it with 8mm id hose (on my ramps at home - oh joy.) I still have an EM light on the dash.
After hols, it will be cleaning the front subframe (ramps again) and then painting as much as possible with either Hammerite or epoxy mastic (after rust treatment where necessary). A look underneath today did reveal some surface rust on bits, but as Dog Book also reminded me, it is 11+ years old, so I'm going to get as much of and treated as I can.
I intend to post some pictures as I go through bits now to show you guys how a real amateur works! It's great when you finally get a bit of time to do stuff and find out how stuff works.
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14th October 2019, 20:13
#13
Regular Member
SO, today I swapped out the wiper motor and mechanism (thanks dog book for parts numbers and the diary for yours, most useful again). As ever the wiper arms were seized on, a puller didn't touch then but a small hammer and persistent blows (not too hard either) shifted them. I took the opportunity to clean out the scuttle drains again, which had becom completely clogged with bits of leaf and silt on both sides fo the car... I carefully hosed them through to make sure.
I fitted the stuff first time, but the wipers moved up one inch and then tried to wipe into the engine bay. SO, I disconnected the drive 'bar' from the motor, ran the motor until it parked and reconnected it. All smiles (this was advice from a pal - I'm not that smart, but looking at it afterwards and looking at dog books images, the wrong 'geometry' was obvious.
I also cleaned out the groove in the plastic scuttle trim panel, since the amount of silt (well, mud) in there was mad. Needless to say, the tril now slots on dead easily. Especially when you have to take it off again (see muppetry above.....).
So, literally just as I finished, storm Sodoff arrive and i now know that the wipers are go again. I did use genuine parts - abit expensive, but spot on fit and, oddly, the Bosch wiper blades don't seem to drag now. There should even be pictures to prove it!
wiper mech 1thumbnail_20191014_133132.jpgwiper mech 2thumbnail_20191014_133146.jpg
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14th October 2019, 20:16
#14
Regular Member
Also, on the second fitting episode, I moved the wiring showing on the second image, so that it is now clear of the mechanism. Simple enough to do, but left as you see it and the mechanism would have chafed it - not good!
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16th October 2019, 16:53
#15
Kero up the good work mate, always good to see someone getting stuck in and having a go at repairs themselves, cracking big motor the estate, I had one a few years back and loved it, boot is amazing in them
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16th October 2019, 21:15
#16
Regular Member
May i suggest when you come to tackle the front subframe is remove the front bumper and the under tray and replace all the torz screws with stainless ones and the washers ,i bought them via ebay cheap as chips and make any further removal alot easier, also unbolt the torz bolts that hold the bottom alloy radiator mounts i've had 1 that had broken through due to corrosion and another well on it's way to failing. I've 3 vectras to keep in top shape so i'm seeing similar problems on all 3 ( we did have 4 but some one wrote it off).And you did right replacing the complete wiper linkage with brand new as i've replaced all 3 of our's with just the replacement rods that are sold on ebay BUT the ball joints have wear AND the spindles have wear and consiquenty our vectra estate has one side that is very loose and i'm going to have to either dismanle it and machine up a new bush or spend £66 for a new linkage assembly
Last edited by autov; 16th October 2019 at 21:21.
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21st October 2019, 11:29
#17
Regular Member
Thanks for that, I had thought about changing any crappy vx fasteners for stainless as I go along. All that i need now is some dry weather again......
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14th November 2019, 22:11
#18
Regular Member
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12th December 2019, 22:38
#19
Regular Member
So, driving to work today and I hear the sound of something bumping at the back. Now, I'm up to Geordie land to pick up the lad for Christmas on Saturday so mild panic ensued. A quick look underneath and I could see a fubar rear o/s spring. SO, I thought about it (and I did want to do them myself, but timing just won't let me right now)and nipped up to the guys that do my tyres and exhausts. "Yeah we'll do that - £98.00 fitted' So it's in tomorrow. The question then is, is it worth swapping both, or do I do the bust one and then get some better quality jobbies in the spring, when it isn't such cruddy weather? Suggestions on a post? Also, what might be the springs of choice, anybody?
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12th December 2019, 22:43
#20
Originally Posted by
Sciteacher
So, driving to work today and I hear the sound of something bumping at the back. Now, I'm up to Geordie land to pick up the lad for Christmas on Saturday so mild panic ensued. A quick look underneath and I could see a fubar rear o/s spring. SO, I thought about it (and I did want to do them myself, but timing just won't let me right now)and nipped up to the guys that do my tyres and exhausts. "Yeah we'll do that - £98.00 fitted' So it's in tomorrow. The question then is, is it worth swapping both, or do I do the bust one and then get some better quality jobbies in the spring, when it isn't such cruddy weather? Suggestions on a post? Also, what might be the springs of choice, anybody?
Eibachs, slightly lower than sri but not daft and an excellent ride and improved handling work very well with any shock and when i had ones of yours i had new genuine sri shocks all round. Depending where the spring is broken it should be safe to drive. To be fair if its a cheap spring its quite a lot for fitting as its only a job of jacking it up and 1 bolt.
Vectra VXR estate 2007 Sapphire Black
Teapot Tuned 255/300
Eibachs B8's, fully loaded factory options
Tech2 & MDI diagnostics + SPS
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