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Thread: creaking noise above rear door?

  1. #11
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    Vehicle : Vectra SRi T estate

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : 2.0 Turbo

    Year : 2008

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dog_Book View Post
    Yup the 2.0t is amazing, you seen mikes 255bhp one @MCD I drove it when it was just mapped and it’s nuts so can’t wait to try it now it’s got a 14T. It’s got to be on par with my mapped Vxr there was little in it before just the 2.8t pulls at higher speed more that’s all really. And yes he reports back better mpg so it’s a good win, the normal vxr’s don’t have much kit anyway it’s only things like seats and brakes and the bumper brake ducts make them different
    All that stuff looks very nice though Expensive to retro fit too so I'm not going there...

    On the open road the 2.0t is great. Pretty decent off the line considering the size and weight of the car. Reliable too - never had a problem other than a broken fuel line. In London traffic, sometimes I'd prefer normally aspirated as it's got so little power off boost but that's a small price to pay.

  2. #12
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    Vehicle : Vauxhall

    Trim : Best

    Engine : 2.0T

    Year : 2008

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dog_Book View Post
    Yup the 2.0t is amazing
    When I write my book, called "Dog Book Says", the above sentence will be the title of the foreword.

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  4. #13
    Full Member GreenMeansGo!'s Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra 1.8 estate

    Trim : Design

    Engine : 1.8VVT

    Year : 2008

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    I have the same issue on the rear left of my estate. I discovered I can induce the creak by pulling hard on the rear roof interior hand pull. That's screwed into the curtain airbag assy, so I'd guess it may have something to do with the fixing of the airbag assy to the body structure or the airbag assy itself. Hopefully that and not some welds coming apart in the structure. It only affects my Veccy when I take the left rear wheel over a curb, twisting the body.


    From my cycle maintenance days I've found that creaks can be trouble-shooted by going around each fixing or interface, one by one, and squirting something like WD40 at it. Then try and recreate the creak. Eventually the creak will killed and silence will be achieved! Do not spray more than one point at a time, otherwise the creak may temporarily disappear but you'll never find out where it was.


    Ideally the creak would be properly fixed, but silence may permanently be achieved just by using something like teflon loaded GT85. The residual teflon left around the creaking part may be enough to kill the creak for good. Or you could reapply periodically when the creak returns, if it's too difficult to fix, like a dodgy weld for example.

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