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Thread: Suction Control Valve SCV Replacement

  1. #1
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    Vehicle : Signums

    Trim : Elite / Exclusiv

    Engine : 3.0 V6 CDTi / 2.2

    Year : 2005

    Mileage : 102000

    Default Suction Control Valve SCV Replacement

    I have managed to put it off for several months now, but the running problems have got gradually worse, to the point where I don't want to rely on it getting me back home again.

    So parked it up in the drive and will start stripping everything down over the next week or so. It is off the road for as long as needed to fix it and I am very busy with work at the moment, so it won't be a quick fix.

    Up until last week, I could drive around the problems by keeping the revs below 1600rpm and avoiding full throttle. It drove fine this way and could still make reasonable progress on the motorway for several trips down south.

    But the last few trips it started hesitating even on light steady throttle and misfiring occasionally when having to push it a little up hill. After a short trip last weekend, I noticed the engine bay was very hot. Heat radiating out to all ancillaries, the ecus, air filter housing, battery cover and even the wings and bonnet were hot to touch. Presumably it is running very lean, but diesels are a mystery to me, so may be wrong on that?

    Strangely, it has only thrown a warning light once in the last couple of months. But I was pushing on a bit above 2000rpm to get to a meeting. It is possible that keeping the demands on fuel supply low might have avoided diagnostic checks or kept the required fuel pressure out of the check range?

    After removing the engine cover and having a look around the engine to get an idea of what needs to be removed to access the scv's, I noticed that the inside of the boost pipe is very dirty with a thick gungy residue and there are signs of oil/fuel around the plastic intake/boost solenoid housing. This will be getting into the dpf as well I think, so glad I have decided to stop driving it to avoid blocking the dpf again.

    I can't work out how the oily residue is finding it's way into the metered air flow post turbo. Would vacuum pressure pull fuel back into the inlet track this far? Or does the egr send exhaust gases back upstream of the inlet pipe?

    At least by removing everything, I will be able to thoroughly check over the intake plastic pipe and hoses for splits, the vacuum pipes for leaks and the egr mechanism. I'll also give the inlet manifolds a good clean and clean the swirl flaps, as I expect these will be thick with gunge, if the inlet pipe is anything to go by.

    Will take plenty of photos as I go and try to post a how to once everything is back together. Probably sometime in August at this rate!

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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

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    Engine : Z30DT

    Year : 08

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    If you have a spare half hour I would remove the hard plastic pipe going to the inlet valve, as I went to change my scv at the beginning of the year and when I took the plastic pipe off it had a split underneath that I couldn’t see until I took it off.

    My car was running like a pile siht, very gently on the throttle and it was normally ok, a little bit of pressure on the engine then it would misfire badly, car would literally jump, changed the pipe and it was like a new car.

    i was going to take some picks but tbh I just wanted to get the job done.

    I would advise getting some plusgas to aid getting the bolts undone on the scv’s slong with a decent short 5mm alien key, I had to grind mine down to get the bottom one off on the red valve, if you like I could measure it and let you know how long I had to make it to get it to fit.

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    Have you got the code from the warning light?

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    gsmb - If you could measure the length of the cut down allen key that would be much appreciated. I was hoping I'd find a split in the plastic boost pipe but no such luck. Everything removed so far looks fine.

    Hi Nick - When the warning light was on I got P0093 (52) present. I replaced the fuel filter at the time and it seemed to cure the problem for a month or so, but it is now running so badly it is almost undriveable. I managed to limp back up the motorway on my last trip at 60-65 mph, but any pressure on the accelerator to carry speed uphill caused a lot of juddering and loss of speed down to 50-55 mph. The odd thing was I could get it up to 2000 rpm in 6th downhill with no sign of juddering or a misfire if accelerating very gently.

    After a recent 2-3 mile trip it was juddering very badly under any acceleration and the engine and everything else under the bonnet was very hot when parked up, I decided to leave it in the drive and prepare to replace the scvs. Looking back carefully through the service history it was a one owner car from Oct 2005 until 2015. There were a few reports of juddering and loss of power in the service notes around 55,000 miles and it had the ecu reflash and a replacement dual mass flywheel and clutch. The service history is patchy after that, but it appears to have changed hands at least 3 times in 15 months. I suspect the running problems were the reason for it being sold on each time.

    I managed to get a few hours to work on it yesterday afternoon and got the intake pipes off, wiring loom disconnected, ecus removed, throttle body, top manifold/housing and egr all removed. Everything looks pretty clean and there are no obvious splits or cracks in anything removed so far.

    Just the fuel rail, egr heater and two manifolds to remove now. But it all looks a bit tight for space, so I suspect it is going to take me a bit longer to get these out. I won't be able to work on it again until next Friday, but hope to have everything removed by next weekend and will get the scvs and replacement gaskets for the egr and manifolds ordered.

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    Did you check stainer tank?

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    Thats the code I got too and finished up changing the scv.

    I highly recommend that you clean the area around the scv prior to dismantling ie brake cleaner then carb cleaner to make sure absolutely no dirt can get in the hole where the scv goes in. Be very patient with the bolt for the scv nearest to you and be prepared to cut down a good quality fitting allen key to remove this critical bolt... !

    While you're in there give the swirl flaps and inlet manifold a good clean too.

    Patience is key, and lay out or store everything labelled up if you're going to be distracted by work.

    I finished up removing the turbo actuator to get the egr cooler out, and managed to do the job without removing the wiring loom that goes across the manifold.

    It took me 11 hours altogether bit I am a bit particular about cleaning it all up before reassembly.

    Good luck with the job, the transformation will be worth it.

    P.s. since the scv job I've personally added 2 stroke semi synth oil to the tank since 200ml per tank full. I always full the track to the brim, then let it run to the low level warning light as for my car this makes the regen more repetative 5 week intervals at 500 miles per week etc

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    I assumed it did not have one since the pump is at the engine and not in the tank. Is it accessible from under the rear seats?
    Last edited by GaryK220; 17th June 2018 at 12:28. Reason: Sorry, response to junckman's post

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    Quote Originally Posted by NickT View Post
    Thats the code I got too and finished up changing the scv.

    I highly recommend that you clean the area around the scv prior to dismantling ie brake cleaner then carb cleaner to make sure absolutely no dirt can get in the hole where the scv goes in. Be very patient with the bolt for the scv nearest to you and be prepared to cut down a good quality fitting allen key to remove this critical bolt... !

    While you're in there give the swirl flaps and inlet manifold a good clean too.

    Patience is key, and lay out or store everything labelled up if you're going to be distracted by work.

    I finished up removing the turbo actuator to get the egr cooler out, and managed to do the job without removing the wiring loom that goes across the manifold.

    It took me 11 hours altogether bit I am a bit particular about cleaning it all up before reassembly.

    Good luck with the job, the transformation will be worth it.

    P.s. since the scv job I've personally added 2 stroke semi synth oil to the tank since 200ml per tank full. I always full the track to the brim, then let it run to the low level warning light as for my car this makes the regen more repetative 5 week intervals at 500 miles per week etc
    I plan to clean everything while it is all disassembled. So far, everything is pretty clean apart from the usual sooty layer inside the manifolds. I am toying with the idea of removing the fuel pump to replace the scvs on a bench to avoid any chance of contamination, but if the area around it is not too dirty and access is OK I'll just do what you suggest and clean everything thoroughly.

    I have the petrol Signum also, so lucky I can take my time and do the job properly without having to rush it.

    I am hoping this will solve the issue once and for all, as ti has been a while since I have been able to enjoy the full performance of the engine.

    Thanks for all the comments guys. I am sure I will be posting up a few more questions when I start putting it back together again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryK220 View Post
    I assumed it did not have one since the pump is at the engine and not in the tank. Is it accessible from under the rear seats?
    Yep, no lifter aux pump, that is why it is a problem with clogged fuel intake on these engines. It is significantly harder to suck thru long long set of tubes and pipes

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    The fuel pump is geared from the cogs that are at the front of the engine and will take longer to undo than just replacing the valves in situ, plus the timing can be awkward.

    Good point about the fuel pick up in the tank. Fortunately mine was very clean but worth looking at the course filter. I used silicon lubricant on reassembly of the puppies in that area to help reseal the quick connectors

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