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Thread: Battery and Cable

  1. #1
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    Default Battery and Cable

    Hi chaps looking for some advice if possible.

    I am about to fit a cable from the battery to the boot for installation of a sub amp, just wondered if anyone had any suggestions as to best route.
    I have not looked too deeply but there are a number of grommets that seem to pass through from the engine compartment to kind of passenger foot well area which could be good news any one have a suggestion on that. Cable is 4 AWG which is about 5.1mm diameter + insulation so about 9-10mm I guess.
    Next question, while looking around battery area I noticed what looks like a clear window in the top of the battery, I know it is a sealed unit I wonderd if this were some kind of health indicator looked in the manual and got nowhere, and I vaguely remember seing a post on here about it but don't remember the conclusions?

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    yes it very easy to get the cable into the car as the pic show .
    you might find it better to take the glove box out when you do this part.

    the cable uses the car gromit that is already thereand down behind the glove box

    the cable will run down the side trims in the white holder all the way down the car to the by the rear seats ,then you can pick where you want the cable to run from there.

    you should you be able to run the cable down the car in under a hour

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    Regular Member breezephil's Avatar
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    Pretty much what Chris Said is what I was gonna Say, there are a Number of Grommets that you can Run through, Im about to Re-do it Soon as I have bigger Cable to Be run (1/0 Gauge)as well as additional batteries lol... I Have used one that comes out directly behind the Glovebox where as the one chris used comes up a bit higher in the dash IIRC.

    All fun and Games, will take about an Hour or So if you dont have any problems, just watch out for sharp edges behind the dash and anything that might trap the cable itself when you are putting the trim on.

    Another Tip - When you take off the Black plastic trim along the sides, you will see another cable run, this time in White Plastic - this is another place you can run the cable, also makes it easier to put the black trim back on. I will attempt to Get some Pics soon when I start the Rest with the additional Batteries and Whatnots

    So what you Planning to Install - Sub and Amp Wise

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    Regular Member parapaul's Avatar
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    I did a how 2 for an amplifier install....here

    HTH

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    IBarFoot, just an advice here.....if posible make shure the the cable from the battery (live) does not run near the signal cables (RCA´s) if you have them, this is because you will probably get a discusting signal noise comming out of your speakers. IMO you should run signal cables in the opposite side of the car if posible.

    Hope this helps mate.

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    That is another good tip - But not Entirely Neccesary IMO, Ive wired a Number of Cars with the RCAs close to the Power and never had a Problem - this is of course affected by the RCA Cables themselves - there are lots of Different types about, the best will have a foil shield around the cable (within the plastic insulation) which help to prevent Electromagnetic Interference (big words I Know lol - it hurts my head)

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    Regular Member BlueRob's Avatar
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    Good point mate.....I probably used not shielded RCA´s but since I had a problem like the discribed above, it´s like a rule of thumb for me to run the cables on different sides....you know it´s a pain to re do the wiring twice.

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    Chaps that is all excellent stuff, all duly noted, great to have a picture to confirm the exact grommet, also the size of cable it will take. To be fair to me I have routed the RCA cables down the other side (Drivers) of the car, and the only cable in the same area is for the CD changer. as I believe this to be on a Coaxial data network it should not be affected by radiation noise from the 12V feed cable. I am trying to leave the car looking pretty standard so no large door builds though it was a bit of a struggle to get the Kicker mid high sets in the front doors. I have used the high power Alpine head so as not to fit a four channel amp and so far it is working OK, I do need another pair of the SS65.2's for the rear doors now (ouch!) The current sub is a Kicker Solobaric 12 inch in a kicker box from a previous install which is going to take up too much space in the boot so I am looking at either building a 6th order bandpass for the boot using 4 X 5 inch low frequency speakers (rare but do exist) or the other possibility is to build the sub into the tail gate.
    The only Amp I could find that would fit in the rear driver side accessory housing (firts aid kit location) was a Genesis Profile Two. Not very powerfull but as I listen to mostly classical don't think it will be an issue.
    I will try to post some pictures of this when I get it done if I eve find out how to do this, not very computer litterate you see.
    Ian B.

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    Default

    OK chaps got the amp fitted in space, slow day at work.
    So if I can work this you should see a picture of the amp on it's little stand, CD changer fitted oposite side and one of the head unit.
    All that I have left to do is run cable from battery compartment (power block on the back of the Amp stand) and find a nice grill to insert in the side trim panel in front of the amplifier.
    I put a Neutrik speakon connector (pro loudspeaker socket) to connect the speaker to the amp for easy removal on those days when maximum boot space required.

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    Regular Member breezephil's Avatar
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    Looks good.

    I like the idea with the Speakon Connector - I have contemplated that myself on numerous occasions, it will be something I will do soon, as soon as the boot build is completed - I HAVE NO BOOT LEFT LOL.....

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