Heater motor and resistor

[Billythebubble]

You need to remove the footwell duct (one T15 holding it to the fan casing, then pull and wiggle)

Is this located in the centre side casing?

Appreciate your help or a pic.

[Billythebubble]

what are you trying to do? if you just trying to change the resister you leave the motor in situ... its just behind the motor but visible and accessible if you push the seat all the way back and lie back into the footwell..

sorry I didn't explain myself.

Usual fault, water in foot well caused by blocked drain plug blowing the resistor, replaced and blow within 4 days and squealing like mad on No. 4 setting so bought a replacement blower motor.

I'm not sure how to remove the black footwell duct so halted the removal process until I find the solution.

Also, the flaps are clicking when selecting the lowest cold air setting, where is this motor located? which of the 4 motors is seized?

Final question, what cost is the flap motors?

[rich r]

The footwell duct is held on by a single screw to the bottom of the fan enclosure. If you get your head into the footwell and look up you'll see it.
Once that's removed, you just pull the duct off the white flap/heater unit in the centre of the dashboard and wiggle it out.

[Billythebubble]

The footwell duct is held on by a single screw to the bottom of the fan enclosure. If you get your head into the footwell and look up you'll see it.
Once that's removed, you just pull the duct off the white flap/heater unit in the centre of the dashboard and wiggle it out.

Thanks for that I should have the old blower motor removed in no time and the new one fitted.

Any info on the sticking flaps?

[Billythebubble]

7 screws later, footwell duct took a bit of gentle pulling & wiggling and finally the blower motor came off.

What a struggle to refit! I suggest having a cuppa before refitting because you want a clear head, took about 5-7 minutes to negotiate the refit.

Second hand motor had signs of small squeak on start up so may need a little lubricating, trouble is I'm selling the car in January and it's only done 54,000 miles!!

Thanks for all the advise on the above posts it was very helpful!

[Saturn1071d]

Resistor Pack repair for less than £0.50.
Thermal fuse replaced on resistor pack following water ingress. See pic attached. Used terminal blocks to securely fasten the new fuse rather than crimp or soldering.

[john7461]

Hi I used a little Henry to suck up all the water works a dream
thank you all for your help

[grimblet]

thanks to everyone on the forum. I took out said resistor pack and ground off the broken resistor (my soldering iron wasn't melting the weld!), used the hacksawed terminal block trick and refitted. Hey Presto fan 1-3 now work fine. Still squeaking on speed 1 though. Couldn't work out how to take out motor to check it - took out 2 screws and tried to release clip which snapped but motor still firmly attached. Will wait and see if thermal fuse blows again. Maybe have to buy a haynes manual!!

[coylo5]

the thermal fuse doesnt have to be put on in any special direction does it??

[iss101]

Just to say thanks for the assistance on this forum, saved me a trip to the garage and likely a few hundred pounds.

One word of caution (more as a result of laziness on my part) -

I replaced the thermal fuse on the resistor pack and was keen to get it back in the car, so did this one evening, I couldn't see much and didn't realise that I didn't actually place the resistor pack in it's rightful slot (there is a gap just under the correct slot).

Heater settings 1, 2 and 3 were sorted (very pleased) but after a few minutes I noticed a burning smell...

Basically, because the resistor pack was in the wrong place, it gets to such a high temperature that it started attaching itself to a bit of plastic in the foot well.

Had to yank it out and place it correctly. All seems sorted now though.

Cheers all