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19th November 2013, 16:04
#21
Regular Member
Originally Posted by
Seeman
Hi, just bought the de-flap kit and a new inlet gasket but someone mentioned online about a new pump but that needed to be fitted as they needed to remove it when fitting the kit, also is there anything else I need and what time if sealant do I need to crack open the manifold to clean it and put back together.
thanks
As you've already bought the blanks and manifold gasket the only other things you'll need are a few jubilee clips. I think you'll need a few 10-15mm and a couple of 18-25mm I think. Of course you could replace the egr gaskets if you were inclined but they tend t reseal fairly well and aren't strictly necessary.
Don't know what pump you may have to replace - the only pump that you'll need to remove is the high pressure fuel pump (be careful not to drop the woodruff key when removing the pulley).
If you haven't had the cambelt kit and water pump replaced recently it is a good idea to do these at the same time as you are most of the way there anyway.
Before using the sealant on the plugs, make sure that the surfaces are THOROUGHLY CLEAN
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19th November 2013, 16:47
#22
Regular Member
I also bought the cam belt and waterpump, thought I'd do this at the same time, do you know what sealant I should use to reseal the inlet manifold after I take it apart to clean?
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19th November 2013, 16:51
#23
Regular Member
Originally Posted by
Seeman
I also bought the cam belt and waterpump, thought I'd do this at the same time, do you know what sealant I should use to reseal the inlet manifold after I take it apart to clean?
I would probably just use a very thin smear of silicone based sealant
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12th December 2013, 15:23
#24
New Member
Hi there , I change my inlet manifold on my 57 vectra today but I don't see big improvement , the egr is new a swell , what else can be?
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15th December 2013, 14:32
#25
New Member
Originally Posted by
leemarksmith
Below is the list of parts required under the TSB (technical service bulletin) and current retail prices (+ VAT).
1 x Manifold - 55210201 £197
1 x Manifold Gasket - 93179058 £12.90
1 x EGR gasket - 93181665 £2.80
1 x Throttle body gasket - 55205453 £2.01
1 x Swirl actuator - 55205127 £159
1 x Sealer/Locking compound - 90542117 £9.55
1 x Actuator arm - 93186274 £6.50
1 x HP fuel pipe - 55215517 £30.75
1 x HP pump pulley nut - 93178824 £2.63
1 x HP pump pulley washer - 93178879 £0.12
12 x Manifold nuts - 93178880 £0.35 each
Is it really necessary to change all these parts when the swirl flaps fail?
Cant the manifold be switched only?
I see in the Pitsburg bulletin that the actuator is learning and therefore needs to be replaced, anyone tried not to change it?
If i want to change it later, is it then the same operatio as to change the entire manifold, or do I easily get access to the actuator?
Why do I have to change the fuel pipe?
and where should the sealer/ locking compound be used?
Thanks
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16th December 2013, 08:13
#26
Regular Member
The only bits that you really need to replace are the manifold and manifold gasket. I've done the manifold on both of my estates and haven't replaced the actuator on either and both work fine. If you read through some of the other threads for replacing the manifold most people haven't replaced the actuator. I believe the sealer/locking compound is a threadlocker and I used some Loctite studlock on the fuel pump mounting bolts and on the pump pulley nut.
While you are replacing the manifold it is also the ideal time to replace the timing belt kit and water pump. I also stud locked the idler pulley bolt and the tensioner bolt.
I hope this helps.
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19th December 2013, 10:33
#27
Regular Member
I made my own brackets up to keep the bar on the swirl flaps and has been on for 20k after it was falling off by itself..
Just made some right angled bracket out of sheet metal, bent it in to shape, drilled a whole in it, and bolted it down by a rocker cover bolt..
have one at each end if the bar and one in the middle, so 3 in all and they sit in just the right place that it's basically impossible for the bar to fall off..
can take pics if needed
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2nd January 2014, 17:56
#28
New Member
Originally Posted by
Laxxx88
I made my own brackets up to keep the bar on the swirl flaps and has been on for 20k after it was falling off by itself..
Just made some right angled bracket out of sheet metal, bent it in to shape, drilled a whole in it, and bolted it down by a rocker cover bolt..
have one at each end if the bar and one in the middle, so 3 in all and they sit in just the right place that it's basically impossible for the bar to fall off..
can take pics if needed
Sounds good to me Lax, I'd like to see some pics, noticed my bar was off while checking over engine after changing timing belt and waterpump, put it back on buts it,s off again now.
Anybody know where I can find the £1 pound fix details, used the search but that only lead me hear, very usefull all the same, thanks.
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27th January 2014, 12:15
#29
New Member
No need to change the fuel pipe, i re-used my actuator motor, it was fine for 6 months, now getting P1109 code which i believe is to do with the swirl actuator! Based on this experience i would change the actuator motor aswell to prevent doing the job twice, especially as it was a very awkward time consuming job to do in the first place. Many people will say not to bother to change the actuator, but based on my experience, i would. Maybe i am just unlucky ;_)
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19th February 2014, 21:02
#30
Regular Member
Has anybody used the swirl bar repair kit?
I'm looking at some now, and there's an alu one Inc.bar and some machined brass bits to replace the plastic socket things.
Which would be better aluminium or brass?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-X-VAUXHA...item1e85c68002
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-C...-/161139198774
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