1.9 CDTi Swirl Flaps - What, Where, Why and How Much?

[Blackie_No1]

FYI ...my swirl bar popped off around 40k. My mechanic set the flaps to a set position and left it at that. I have had to clean the egr (stripping the solenoid and lubricating as well) a few times over the years but am now up to 208k miles.

I’ve had my car three weeks tonight and I’ve found someone appears to have done this with mine, three of the flaps appear to be set in the “open” position just leaving the number three flap to do it’s thing on command from the actuator with no eml at present.

My car is sitting at 170k now. I’m hesitant to fit a new bar in case it ruins how the car runs or puts on an eml! I haven’t even tried moving the other flaps for fear of breaking something lol

[michale_kid]

Is their any guide to remove the swirl flaps from a manifold??

Dont want to damage anything by using force... Any simple guides??

Thanks

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

[HoustonUK]

Is their any guide to remove the swirl flaps from a manifold?? Dont want to damage anything by using force... Any simple guides?? ThanksSent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

You have to remove the Manifold from the car first..How2 here.

Then its either 2 screws per flap or smash them out (this makes sense when you can see inside), either way you need to have the manifold on bench

[michale_kid]

You have to remove the Manifold from the car first..How2 here.

Then its either 2 screws per flap or smash them out (this makes sense when you can see inside), either way you need to have the manifold on bench

Thanks for the reply I have the manifold in my garden as we speak.. need to deflap and clean to take to the welder tomorrow morning.

So hammer and small bar and knock the flap out first the pop the top bits out from the inside??

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

[ep1centre]

Hi all,

A few months after i bought the car i found out that the connecting bar on mine had fallen off too, I checked and all swirl flaps were free and moving so i bought and fitted one of the brass kits from ebay, it worked great and I've now done about 10/15k without problems however recently (2-3months) i started getting hesitation on cruise / acceleration, the boost leak code P2279 and smell of fumes in the cabin so i started investigating.

It seems I have a pretty nasty leak on one of the swirl flaps, so i'm thinking of replacing the manifold and doing it properly, it also gives me an excuse to replace the alternator as the bearings are shot (really noisy), my question is; do I really need to replace the swirl actuator motor since it's working fine?

The original post recommends doing do but i can't understand why you would, it is as far as i'm aware either a stepper motor or a solenoid, neither of which are parts that "wear" so why should I replace it if it's working?

If it was a cheaper part I wouldn't think about it but they're quite pricey. :/

[AL21784]

Hi all,

A few months after i bought the car i found out that the connecting bar on mine had fallen off too, I checked and all swirl flaps were free and moving so i bought and fitted one of the brass kits from ebay, it worked great and I've now done about 10/15k without problems however recently (2-3months) i started getting hesitation on cruise / acceleration, the boost leak code P2279 and smell of fumes in the cabin so i started investigating.

It seems I have a pretty nasty leak on one of the swirl flaps, so i'm thinking of replacing the manifold and doing it properly, it also gives me an excuse to replace the alternator as the bearings are shot (really noisy), my question is; do I really need to replace the swirl actuator motor since it's working fine?

The original post recommends doing do but i can't understand why you would, it is as far as i'm aware either a stepper motor or a solenoid, neither of which are parts that "wear" so why should I replace it if it's working?

If it was a cheaper part I wouldn't think about it but they're quite pricey. :/

Hi and welcome,

First off, you can actually get to, and replace the alternator without removing the intake manifold, it's reasonably easy job to do and it usually takes me about a hour to do.

Secondly, I would recommend replacing the manifold with a welded one, or if you can find one (they don't come up very often), a manifold from the Alfa 156 1.9 16v , these were never fitted with the flaps and the manifold is a direct fit.

people usually charge about £160 to supply and fit a welded manifold, if you go down the route of fitting a welded manifold, you won't need to worry about the actuator, it stays plugged in, but not connected. it is not a requirement to replace this when having a manifold changed, unless it has actually failed, however it can actually be mapped out by @Teapot and others.

Alan

[ep1centre]

Hi and welcome,

First off, you can actually get to, and replace the alternator without removing the intake manifold, it's reasonably easy job to do and it usually takes me about a hour to do.

Secondly, I would recommend replacing the manifold with a welded one, or if you can find one (they don't come up very often), a manifold from the Alfa 156 1.9 16v , these were never fitted with the flaps and the manifold is a direct fit.

people usually charge about £160 to supply and fit a welded manifold, if you go down the route of fitting a welded manifold, you won't need to worry about the actuator, it stays plugged in, but not connected. it is not a requirement to replace this when having a manifold changed, unless it has actually failed, however it can actually be mapped out by @Teapot and others.

Alan

Hi Alan,

Thank you very much for your reply - do you have any recommendations on a how to or video showing how to do the alternator without the manifold, I ask because if that's the case, it can be done without removing the manifold, I might decide to do it at a different time.

Re the manifold, I think I'll still replace it with the standard parts (ie with swirl flaps) I've messed around with cars a lot in the past and I found from personal experience that modifying something from original spec always leads to more hassle than it's worth. In this case for example I need to find a welded manifold, then find someone to map it out and find the time to go see them and I have a nagging feeling that there's bound to be other knock on effects (poor / different running of the engine, worse fuel consumption, etc). My theory is, if this manifold and swirl flaps have done their job for 180k and i replace them with new parts now, they shouldn't cause me anymore problems for as long as I own the car...

Just to confirm then, no wearable parts on the swirl actuator that would warrant replacing it as a "serviceable part" at the same time? - essentially if it works, leave it?

Thanks again

[AL21784]

Hi Alan,

Thank you very much for your reply - do you have any recommendations on a how to or video showing how to do the alternator without the manifold, I ask because if that's the case, it can be done without removing the manifold, I might decide to do it at a different time.

Re the manifold, I think I'll still replace it with the standard parts (ie with swirl flaps) I've messed around with cars a lot in the past and I found from personal experience that modifying something from original spec always leads to more hassle than it's worth. In this case for example I need to find a welded manifold, then find someone to map it out and find the time to go see them and I have a nagging feeling that there's bound to be other knock on effects (poor / different running of the engine, worse fuel consumption, etc). My theory is, if this manifold and swirl flaps have done their job for 180k and i replace them with new parts now, they shouldn't cause me anymore problems for as long as I own the car...

Just to confirm then, no wearable parts on the swirl actuator that would warrant replacing it as a "serviceable part" at the same time? - essentially if it works, leave it?

Thanks again

The engine will run better and there are no negative side effects to having them removed and welded, if anything the engine will run better.

There are plenty of people on here that will tell you the same, it's quite a common mod/repair that is done to the engines, plus it;s considerably cheaper.


Alan

[ep1centre]

The engine will run better and there are no negative side effects to having them removed and welded, if anything the engine will run better.

There are plenty of people on here that will tell you the same, it's quite a common mod/repair that is done to the engines, plus it;s considerably cheaper.


Alan

Alright, you got my attention... cheaper is better when it comes to a daily runabout, so suppose I decide to either weld or otherwise blank mine or buy a blanked one, presumably the car still runs so that i can get to someone in order to map it out.

How would I go about finding someone local (ish) who would map it out and what are (roughly) the costs involved in doing so?

Also who supplies and fits them for £160?, after a quick look on ebay the manifolds alone cost £220... there are some blanking kits for £30 so i suppose i could blank mine myself.

[BIGMJA123]

Looking in my engine bay tonight after doing the front bulbs I have realised my swirl bar is off... after reading all
the comments on here it looks a big job..
didnt run car as I wasn’t sure but I’ll check tomorrow