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Thread: Trying to fix my leaky sump rim

  1. #1
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    Vehicle : BMW

    Trim : 320D

    Engine : .

    Year : 2009

    Default Trying to fix my leaky sump rim

    So after finally chiselling my sump plug out, I damaged the rim so now the new plug leaks oil.

    I've now taken the Vec off the road to drain the oil and try to fix it. (Currently driving an E36 compact... )

    Here's a couple of pics I took tonight:

    So tonight I took the vec off the road to drain the oil, il leave it a couple of days then try & seal it with something.








    I planned to drain the oil, let the surface dry out, clean it up & fix it with chemical metal, file it smooth & try again.

    BUT

    After looking at the surface, do we think a copper crush washer may do the job? I have taken out 7 days insurance on the BMW so I need to get this fixed ASAP.

    Cheers!

  2. #2
    Regular Member Beardy's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Astra

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 1.7 CDTI

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 110,000

    Default

    Tbh mate its worth a try with a washer/rubber ring to seal it temporarily but will need a new sump in the long run as will bo doubt fail with age.

  3. #3
    Regular Member Neve'o's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra SRi 150 Hatch

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : Z19DTH

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 69'000

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    If it was me I would use a fine metal file to get that mounting face nice and smooth, remove all the gashes, refit plug with new washer/sealing compound such as RTV. It doesn't look all that bad tbh, I've repaired worse!

  4. #4
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    Vehicle : SIGNUM 1.9 CDTI ELITE

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    Engine : 1.9 CDTI 150

    Year : 2005

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    deffo file it down...just enought to take the rough off then get some fiber washers (2 of as thick as will go on) place copper wash on sump plug, then two fiber washers and tighten to the sump, warm the engine up and re tighten a little, that should cure it.......sometimes helps to soak the fiber washers in oil for a few hours before you fit.

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    Vehicle : SIGNUM 1.9 CDTI ELITE

    Trim : ALL OPTIONS ELITE

    Engine : 1.9 CDTI 150

    Year : 2005

    Mileage : 140,000

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    chemi metal will not work! the idea behind the fiber washers is that they soak up the oil that seeps through the gap and they will only soak up what they can hold....they then block and seal, they were mainly used on old machinery with rough sealing face tolerances.

  6. #6
    Regular Member AntSSSS's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra Estate

    Trim : SRI

    Engine : CDTI 150 (Z19 DTH)

    Year : 2008

    Mileage : 100k

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    Dowty washer - like this:

    l_hsu21.jpg

    and PTFE tape on the thread may just seal it...

    Filing the face will be OK if you can be sure to get the face flat. Very difficult with a hand file.

  7. #7
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    Vehicle : Signum

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 3.2

    Year : 2003

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    Dunno about the Vec but I had to replace the sump pan on my bora and it was pretty cheap.

  8. #8
    Regular Member frasedeb's Avatar
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    Default

    That doesn't look too bad, try the washer route if i were you.
    And what bladeage1 said chemical metal won't work, he's right cos i tried it on the wifes hyundai coupe, ended up putting new sump on it, surprisingly cheap at £40 from stealers.

  9. #9
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    Vehicle : BMW

    Trim : 320D

    Engine : .

    Year : 2009

    Default

    So I filed the surface down..



    crush washer was too small.. ******. Cut it, fitted it & bent it back together.

    The chip at the bottom is too big to draw out, so I had to try chemical metal putty. After a lot of thinking, I decided the best route was to seat the putty, screw the plug back in while soft so it moulds to the shape.

    This actually worked, but as I plan to change the sump anyway, I wanted to make it as leak proof as possible...




    Left it to set for an hour to set, put some oil in, seems dry, filled it up, ran the engine for 10 mins.. Still no sign of oil.


    We'll see how it goes!

  10. #10
    Regular Member Teapot's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Signum

    Trim : Design+

    Engine : 1.9 CDTI 150

    Year : 2007

    Mileage : 101000

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    I know its a bit late for you now, but when mine got stuck I used a dremel with cutting disc to carefully cut off two sides of the plug flange, leaving flats that an open ended spanner will fit on and . Its a bit more accurate than a chisel, as long as you have a steady hand.

    And yes, i did break about 6 dremel cutting discs in the process. If anyone can do it with less than 3 discs, I take my hat off to them

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