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Thread: Bit off topic… Shed insulation?

  1. #1
    Regular Member coldo's Avatar
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    Default Bit off topic… Shed insulation?

    Way off topic here guys…

    Im using my garden shed more and more since we have a garage conversion completed last year. Right now its packed to the gunnels with a full car interior, wheels, tyres, bikes etc.

    My problem with it is damp and cold. I lost one jet wash due to frost damage and cant store any tools in there without them rusting. The car interior apears to have mold on it due to the damp also although I have checked and can confirmt here are no leaks.

    The shed is big 10” by 6” and is tong and grove with a tared and felter roof, raised floor and perspex single payne windows. The walls and roof have straps which are 40mm deep. The walls and roof are gap free but the door is very poor for drafts, seal and with some gaps in the frame.

    So my plan is to insulate the shed but this needs to be done on the cheap.

    I have a role of 50m * 1.2m of foil buble wrap, foil tape, builders moisture barrier sheeting, loft insulation (200mm thick), expanding foam, door draft seal strips and some old carpet to deliver the project.

    So my plan is as follows…

    * Clean walls down and assess for Gaps, breaks, damage
    * Expanding foam all air gaps including join in the roof at the apex
    * Fit Perspex across the windows to double glaze them
    * Cut and fit the membrane for the walls and roof. Fit over batons and staple to walls
    * Cut lower level foil buble wraps and fit.
    * Pack with loft insulation / Thin layer's only (strip it down to allow for this)
    * Fit next level seal and tape join
    * Repeat on other side around windows, back wall and around door frame
    * Pack with loft insulation again
    * Fit lower roof foil and again pack
    * Fit one side of roof cross over and pack first then do the other side
    * Skin doors in membrane
    * Fit draft seal around door frame (possibly pack out with more wood to allow for packing
    * Foil doors back filling with insulation where possible

    So my questions for you are…
    Does my plan make sence or would you do different?
    And how should I put the moisture barrier on etc. Should this go against the wall first, then loft insulation, then the bubble wrap or should I just go with the loft insulation then moisture barrier followed by the foil buble wrap?

    Col

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    Trim : SXi

    Engine : 2.2


    Default

    If you insulate the shed and it is warmer than outside will that not cause condensation that will esculate the problem as there will be no air in there either? Thats why houses and lofts have vents to allow some colder air into the house and allow it to breathe. Coldness does not lead to mould (Otherwise your fridge that is air tight and cold would allow things to rot quicker than if left outside in the kitchen) normally its warmth lack of air and moisture that allow yeasts and bacterias to grown forming mould spores.

  3. #3
    Regular Member coldo's Avatar
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    Ahhhh... ok... So adding venting to my hut will be key (the front door does that with all the gaps).

    any idea then how I can store things in there without them freezing in winter? Things like my jet wash for example.?

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    Regular Member chewy71's Avatar
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    Default

    what about the floor? pointless doing part of the structure. cold and damp mainly comes from the floor. And as mentioned, if the shed is not ventilated, you will attract mould.

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    Trim : SXi

    Engine : 2.2


    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by coldo View Post
    Ahhhh... ok... So adding venting to my hut will be key (the front door does that with all the gaps).

    any idea then how I can store things in there without them freezing in winter? Things like my jet wash for example.?
    Jet wash probably freezes as there is still water in it? Can you attach the inlet hose to a bucket with Antifreeze in? Then suck some through and stop it so any water left has antifreeze in it. Other than that I would put it indoors.

    Normal stuff in the shed won't get effected by the temp. If you look at a house they should have air vents and a lot now have vents under the floor.

    Coldness as chewy says is normally from the floor upwards. I'd get something on the floor. As for the car interior you are on a loser there had the same problem many a time. just have to keep cleaning it if its not stored indoors.

  6. #6
    Regular Member coldo's Avatar
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    Would undelay damp course followed by some old capet work well on the floor of the shed then?

  7. #7
    Regular Member d_ghedia's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vauxhall Signum

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 1.9 CDTI 150. Manual

    Year : 2006

    Default

    My old man had the same problem as part of his shed is used as an aviary. He insulated by using wall insulation (tall, thin blocks) on the walls and floors and on the floor he put a few 18mm ply boards over 400mm spaced beams. He also put vents at either end to let the air flow through. He added an electric radiator that comes on for 30 mins, 4-8 times a day depending on the weather

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    Regular Member azacbr6's Avatar
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    I have a purpose built metal motorcycle shed, it has air vents (louvre style to stop rain getting in) on each side so there is always a current of air to keep the inside coldish and dry any moisture. the floor is made out of chipboard with plastic underneath, in yours just get insulating material underneath and line the floor with chipboard normally used in lofts and make sure it's all contained in the insulation material to stop water getting in from underneath.You don't realy need to insulate from inside as it's not going to make a difference, as said here before it'll still get damp, air circulation and prevention of water leaking in are the key. My shed still gets damp sometimes but most of the water sticks to the metal roof and and leave the bike and tools dry plus it's easy to wipe dry of the metal surface.

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    Regular Member boba's Avatar
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    Insulation won't really make the shed any warmer. It may take longer to cool down but it will still get to the same temperature as outside in the end unless you have some sort of heating. In wet weather damp air will enter the shed and when it gets colder it will condense on anything handy. The only way to prevent this is to have plenty of ventilation. Unless you're prepared to spend money on heating the shed there isn't really any way to stop things freezing - just need to make sure nothing can be damaged by sub-zero temperatures.

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    Regular Member Munkey's Avatar
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    Best thing I have done was for my old mans in Plymouth. Was a little bigger - 12 x 12, but similar issue. First thing was to raise the shed - its now on railway sleepers with gaps between for airflow. Then sealed the wooden floor with PVA, then carpeted. Used spray foam insulation (was getting his loft done so stole some for the shed) on the walls and roof, then lined with thick MDF - to easily hang shelves on. Left the window as it was but added one of the sliding vents under and over it. He has loads of bits in there with no problems now, uses a oil filled radiator if its really cold.

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