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Thread: AMP going into protect mode

  1. #1
    Regular Member coldo's Avatar
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    Default AMP going into protect mode

    SUB: SONY XPLOD SUBWOOFER XS-L104P5R 1200W
    AMP: Fli 450s 2 Channel Amplifier 450W Amp
    HEAD UNIT: JVC KW-AVX840
    WIRING: Recommended heavy duty cabling rated to sub and amp.

    Having a few issues with my install today.

    I had noticed that every now and again my AMP would go into protect mode. This would happen at most once every couple of months and would last for 30’s when it would come back on as normal. I assumed it was all down to playing ACDC a bit to loud for the system causing the issue.

    Anyway, today on my way to work the AMP cut out but this time did not come back on. I turned the unit off and waited till I got to the work car park to check it. Sure enough the AMP has the red protect light on. I checked the remote wire at the head unit (as I had the glove box out yesterday to change the blower motor which the cable passes right by) and all seemed fine. I checked the terminal at the batter and again all seems fine (glass fuse all sound etc). I checked what I could of the wiring at the AMP but as it has a protective case it was hard to feel the wires behind until I get this removed.

    So tonight I will empty the car and spend a bit more time trying to sort it.

    Things I am going to check….

    EARTH: I am going to check the connection of the earth cable to the body making sure it is clear and well fixed
    AMP wiring: I am going to check the AMP wiring is all secure and has not come loose
    Behind the glove box: I will take this out to double check I have not damaged anything behind the glove box (wiring being kinked / broken etc)
    SUB: I am going to check the terminals at the sub in case these have come loose etc

    What else should I be checking folks?

  2. #2
    Regular Member coldo's Avatar
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    Default

    Small update...

    This is the user guide...

    http://www.fliaudio.co.uk/manuals/450.pdf

    My kids prams had shifted in the boot and were up against the AMP. It didnt feel particuarly hot but but am wondering if it prehaps had over heated causing the issue?

    So adding that to the list.

  3. #3
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    Vehicle : Dodge Journey

    Trim : SXT

    Engine : 2.0Tdi (VW Engine)

    Year : 2010

    Mileage : 53000

    Default

    I would start by checking the power and remote wire with a multimeter (witheverything all in place and running) i have had it that a fuse had broken at one end and only letting millivolts through. If thats all ok turn off power and check what you said and the rca leads aswell.

  4. #4
    Regular Member coldo's Avatar
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    Will do....

    I checked the earth point on lunch and it is sound. I checked the remote connection at the head unit also and it is fine. Next steps are to disconect the speakers and see if this makes any difference. I disconected the sub wire and it made no difference so I am hopeing it's down tot he RCA lead. If that's not at fault I will put the multimeter accross the conections to see if power is getting tot he sub from the remote wire as when refitting the glove box I was fanying about with this cable something fearce!

  5. #5
    Regular Member coldo's Avatar
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    Default

    Oh and on the off chance this doesnt work and the AMP is infact dead... I have been looking online and for my budget (which is not very much) I was thinking of getting this...

    http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro..._id/13009.html

    http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/8454.html


    Not sure if this capacitor will work or not...? Thoughts?

  6. #6
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    Vehicle : Dodge Journey

    Trim : SXT

    Engine : 2.0Tdi (VW Engine)

    Year : 2010

    Mileage : 53000

    Default

    I wouldn't even entertain the power cap, all they do is hide a problem that already there. If you think you need one because your down on power it could be that your main battery is not up to the job, wiring is too small. Have you done the big3 ?, if yes and still have problems I would upgrade your main battery to the biggest one you can fit or add a second battery.

  7. #7
    Regular Member coldo's Avatar
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    Default

    Hi all,

    Right... Took the amps and install to pieces tonight. Connected just the power, remote and earth back up (earth is mounted to the car boot floor on bare metal - 100% checked this) and nothing else and the AMP powered back up imediatly to protect mode.

    I wondered if I may have caused this by "clipping".... Now I understand the concept of "clipping" ie overdriving the amp till it reaches its maximum output and can produce no more but how have i done this. Is it pushing the volue so loud from the head unit that i have made the AMP clip?

    Anyway, given I have tried the basic power test and it's still going into protect I can only assume it is knackered! Time for some shopping I think. Do you rate the BOSS amp I listed?

    Oh and the lights only flicker when the volume is high most noticible on the CID screen. I have done the big three (power altinator to battery, batter neg to earth and engin to earth which improved things massivly. I had just wondered if the power cap would refine it so no flickering at all could be seen and take that final extra bit of load from the altinator...?

  8. #8
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    Default

    All I can say is Google about power caps and make your own mind up or ask on TA. If your made up on getting one I have one here if you want it ( will have to collect). As for the clipping it normally kills the sub because the amp is giving out a clipped signal ( I can also set up your amps so they will not be sending a clipped signal to you speakers using a scope metre). It will be the way you have setup your system that may off killed it, either your head unit is sending a clipped signal or your amp because the gain is set to high ( the gain is no a volume dial its to match your head units output, normally between 2 and 6 volts pre-outs).

    As for the boss amp I have never had one so can't say.

    Your lights flicker because of the drain on the battery, look at it this way your alt is a tap on full and your battery is a resivior, your taking out the resivoir more than what the alt can put in. So you need a bigger tap/alt or a bigger resivior/battery.

  9. #9
    Regular Member coldo's Avatar
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    Default

    My game was almost at max on the AMP.... The head unit and AMP were never set up right from day one... dead trebbily sound and no deep base. I am planning on setting this one up perfict and have been looking at guides for this.


    I will wait till the amp is through and take you up on the offer of setting the system up.

    If you think the CAP is a wais of money I will leave this out also!

  10. #10
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    Year : 2010

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    Default

    I brought a cap in my younger days thinking it was a good idea and it made no difference to my setup in the slightest, mind you I did have a pretty digital display with numbers on it which went up and down in time with the bass lol.

    Not a problem setting it up for you.

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