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Thread: 1.9 (150) swirl bar question....

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    Default 1.9 (150) swirl bar question....

    Hi

    I have a 2006 Saab 1.9 TiD (150) which has had the swirl bar attached fine for the last 18 months of ownership but recently come off and I have oily deposits round 2 of the swirl flap tops so I know its leaking.

    My question is which is better;

    1) Bar re-attached using number plate caps but leaking boost

    2) swirl flap 1,2 & 4 bonded at 10 o'clock position so not working but no boost leak

    I will replace the manifold in in the next few months but as the doesnt feel as though its dropped any power since the bars detached I'm edging towards option 2.

    Any thoughts or backed up (rolling road) experience?

    Thanks in advance

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    IMO bonding the flaps is far better...

    My old 06 elite had issues with bar falling off, I did a lot of research & talking to lots of mechanics & engineers... the swirls have gunked due to the mix of egr soot & the oil vapour in the ccv system, the swirls are closed on idle & open as the revs increase... the whole idea behind this is to create a leaner burn at idle or low revs, purely emissions based.

    After bonding the swirls in the 10 oclock position & unplugging the egr, the motor ran much better & although i don't have the car any longer i did over 40k with no issues, i only plugged the egr back in for the mot & it flew through mot's no problem.

    There's a chap on here who actually removed the swirl operation completely & welded the manifold up then re installed it, he's running much higher bhp than most remapped vectra's in the uk.

    hth

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    Thank you for your advice - Did you disconnect the control for the 3rd swirl flap or just leave it operating? I'm thinking of using a 2 part epoxy resin to bond them unless there's a better product to use.

    Having come from an E46 BMW to the Saab I'm happy that at least the swirl flaps cant kill the engines as they can with the BMW diesel engines!

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    I left the 3rd as it wasn't leaking, imo the best to use is the evostik liquid metal put a tube on the end of the nozzle to help getting down the tight area & got plenty on, the car was ok to drive after an hour & it had fully cured/set the following day.

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    Have a read HERE buddy

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    Spent Sunday afternoon cleaning the top of the inlet manifold and bonding the 3 swirl flaps open (the 4th one controlled by the actuator is moving fine). The car seems far more responsive now, pulling a bit harder and more eager when pulling out of junctions. I'm going to leave it for a few days and check for signs of leaking where I sealed them.

    Thanks for your help.

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    have you unplugged the egr?

    If not then before you fire the motor up, unplug it... yes you will get an emission warning light but the engine will run with no other issues, by doing this you are preventing any further deterioration of the inlet & the motor will feel more responsive, i only ever plugged mine back in for the mot... never had an issue.

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    is there a tutorial on this? with pics if poss?

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