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Thread: Vacuum Solonoid

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    Default Vacuum Solonoid

    This post is also in my car/spanner light thread. The car is a 2002 2.0dti LS (y20dth). Just had a vacuum gauge on the outlet of the solonoid that control the flaps in the inlet manifold - does anyone know if there should be a vacuum there when the engine is cold? I revved up to around 3500rpm but still no vacuum. Would this cause my car/spanner light to come on when accelerating hard? I removed the vacuum pipes and linked them together and the actuator operated and closed the flaps which I believe rules out split vacuum pipework. The vacuum system on the turbo is pulling the rod in (whatever that connects to) when at idle - don't know if it moved when revved up as cannot see it when my foot is on the accelerator!

    Thanks

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    hi holtie , yes there should be a vacuum , normally it is only at about 0.7bar but should be detectable with a wet finger over the vacuum hose
    Driving vauxhall,s for 30 + years
    and still loving it

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    I've had the solonoid in bits today to clean it but it all seemed clean so put it back together and made no difference. Just been out and checked voltage at the plug - its 10.77 volts - does anybody know what it should be? Also the car/spanner light came on as soon as I unplugged it but went off again when plugged back in.

    Thanks

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    Also, does anyone know if the turbo actuator solonoid is the same as the inlet manifold flaps one - if so I could swap them over to see what happens. I don't have the car here at the moment so cannot have a look. Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by holtie View Post
    This post is also in my car/spanner light thread. The car is a 2002 2.0dti LS (y20dth). Just had a vacuum gauge on the outlet of the solonoid that control the flaps in the inlet manifold - does anyone know if there should be a vacuum there when the engine is cold? I revved up to around 3500rpm but still no vacuum. Would this cause my car/spanner light to come on when accelerating hard? I removed the vacuum pipes and linked them together and the actuator operated and closed the flaps which I believe rules out split vacuum pipework. The vacuum system on the turbo is pulling the rod in (whatever that connects to) when at idle - don't know if it moved when revved up as cannot see it when my foot is on the accelerator!

    Thanks
    Check the pipes are installed correctly and something's not perished and blocked somewhere and the valve vacuum solenoids ok.

    I drew this up ages ago as I was getting customers in that had completely lost the plot trying to mess with the vac system.

    I would get Vec B's in with vac pipes everywhere so I made my own laminated vac pipe sheet.

    Hope it helps your testing and maybe others.

    Disclaimer > To the best of my knowledge this is a correct diagram, I am not responsible for damage to persons or vehicle s as result of this image

    Last edited by C-Owner; 11th January 2013 at 18:35.

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    Regular Member C-Owner's Avatar
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    Please note although its Vectra B it should be the same principle for that engine.




    PS: I hate that 15 min post edit timer.....................

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    All the pipes are OK. Mine has only got 2 solonoids - one for the turbo wastegate which pulls in when the engine is running - the other goes to an actuator on the inlet manifold which closes some flaps inside the manifold - this is the one that isn't operating at idle (it is also the one that had a split pipe for I don't know how long (only got the car last week) - if i bypass the solonoid valve the actuator moves and closes the flaps. Does anybody know what these flaps are supposed to act or what their proper name is so I can search this forum better? It will be another week until I can get any codes read.

    Thanks

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    Regular Member C-Owner's Avatar
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    You need to check the whole system, those flaps close to help shut down the engine and prevent overrun.



    Field remedy(2058)

    Vectra-C 2002...2004,Signum 2003...2004,Frontera 2002...2003 Y20DTH| Y22DTR,Y20DTH| Y22DTR,Y20DTH

    Bad throttle response, bad performance and sometimes about black smoke. After engine shut down and next ignition cycle the problem is gone. In most of the cases DTC: P0638 (5B) was set, sometimes together with P0234 (5B).

    Leakage and or malfunction within the vacuum circuit detected. Most likely a cracked T-connector or a cracked vacuum hose. In some cases a blocked air filter element was found.
    If this happens the vacuum line can not properly be ventilated and therefore will not actuate the throttle flap in a proper way (throttle flap get´s stuck in nearly closed position).


    Fitted to the inlet manifold that acts like an exhaust brake , closing on over run.

    Have fun.

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    I don't want anyone to say 'I told you so' but after properly repairing the vacuum pipe my turbo is back and I can't get the car/spanner light on. The wastegate valve was moving when the engine was running but it looks like it wasn't completely shutting (I wiggled the suspect vacuum joint and saw it pull in a bit more). At least I've now got a clean inlet manifold, boost sensor and EGR valve

    Happy again with my Vectra - can't say the same for the wifes Alhambra - just had to pat £500 for a new front spring from Seat as my local MOT garage couldn't get the strut out due to corrosion and limited space - you can't even see the nut at the top, then the handbrake cable jammed on so been under the car in the snow, and its just recently had a new clutch/flywheel and alternator.

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    Told y.......



    Nice cheap fix well done .
    Last edited by C-Owner; 17th January 2013 at 22:15.

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