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Thread: Digital auto ranging multimeter Qs

  1. #1
    Regular Member SlowCoach's Avatar
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    Default Digital auto ranging multimeter Qs

    Ok, the instructions with this new item i got, is clap crap! (without swearing!) and basic information's crap. I'm trying to understand what each of those the dials points at means... ?

    New at this thing so hopefully will help others when they are clueless like i am! :-D



    image-1788412624.jpg

    I'm planning on testing each wirings to find why i get battery on dash light on 3-5 minutes after starting and driving. (no its not any starter motor/alternator/battery fault)

    Thanks in advance kind sirs :-)

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Dcv= direct current voltage ie what you want to be testing vehicle electrics with
    acv= alternating ie this is for mains electrics but can also be used on alternators and certain sensors
    Hz/ duty= is frequency and duty cycle so the amount of on signal a sensor is getting etc
    the last one is ohms this is for resistance checking sensors wiring etc. note the part needs to be isolate from power source before doing so.
    a better way to confirm circuit resistance is voltage drop

    I have a feeling you'll require a scope but you can do a lot of testing with a multimeter providing you no what the meter is telling you

    ie the voltage reading is just potential difference between the two points of where the leads are.

    i hope this is of some help

    feel free to pm me or ask question here if if may help others and ill do my best to explain

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    Regular Member SlowCoach's Avatar
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    Thanks man! You're kind to help with this... Which one to find earthing and how do i use this to test for like nearly broken wiring etc so i can test ranging to ensure its not breakage in wires if that makes sense?

    What i want to do is ...

    Find source of issue that causing battery light on dash to stop appearing!!! So testing wirings from alternator to end point check no breakage in wiring and test ground is good, starter motor same and battery with ground as well.

    Thanks :-)

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Best way is voltage drop

    circuit has to be operating or trying to operate no volt drop if theirs no current flow

    type in voltage drop testing and their will be various demos on YouTube picture paints a thousands words and all that

    but basically test I would do would be batt voltage work to 2 decimal places

    then check voltage at the alt on both cables

    then red lead on batt pos and black lead on alt cable that'll tell you you positive side volt drop

    and then again neg to alt casing

    you can then narrow it down by moving the probe position along various parts of the circuit

    ill get laptop out tomorrow and see if I can do some paint diagrams to help.

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Mk1 renault scenic... I know I know but it drives

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    Just found a photo I sent to someone its basic testing of a charging system


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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    If theirs anyone on the forum that's relatively serious or some of the pro techs that do electrical diagnosis have a look a load pro leads

    videos on you tube by dan Sullivan

    awesome bit of kit and makes electrical diagnosis some much quicker

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    Regular Member SlowCoach's Avatar
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    Thanks mate, great help :-)

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    Regular Member TonyP2020's Avatar
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    Hi Adam, interesting diagram, but I have a couple of questions if you dont mind.
    What is the connection W and why is it connected to/across 2 of the windings??
    Thanks

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    Regular Member Critch's Avatar
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    If I remember rightly its from older vehicles to drive the tachometer

    will pull my book out and check for you.

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    Regular Member Hue Jarse's Avatar
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    Surely the circuit as drawn above couldn't possibly work with two of the stator coils shorted together, could it?

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