car won't start :-(

**michael_linford** · 29th December 2012, 11:09

Hi guys,

Been having trouble since Christmas day with my petrol vectra 1.8 ( z18er).

Went out for lunch to mother in laws, came out to start the car and only got a click, suspected battery was flat so got a jump and all was well.

Got to my parents about 8 miles down the motorway, stopped the engine, tried to start and it was fine.

Came out to go home about 2 hours later and click.

Got another jump and off we go. Got into my garage, stopped the engine, tried to start and click.

I took the battery off and put it on charge ( it had around 15 hours), put it back on reading 12.3V and click.

Called the aa. It will not start with a jump now. Long story short, he said starter motors goosed. Got engine going with a bump start, back into garage, turned off, turned on - click.

Got a new starter and fitted it yesterday.
Turned the key and I cannot tell you how annoyed I was when I heared that click again!

Everything works with ignition on, lights, blowers, DVD player etc.
But when i give the key a turn to start the engine, it just sounds like a relay clicking under the bonnet.

Even tried spare key, jumped fine from two separate cars with matching batteries initially, but no longer jumping. New starter fitted.

I'm running out of ideas and patience so any help would be really appreciated!!

Thanks in advance,
Michael.

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**Leemarksmith** · 29th December 2012, 11:17

Sounds more like a battery issue then starter to me? Is it the original?

**michael_linford** · 29th December 2012, 11:32

No, it was changed just over two years ago. I went out from work one lunch, parked up. No more than 5 minutes, came back and it just clicked like it's doing now. Local garage came out with a booster pack and it started no problem.

The fact that it's not jumping now swayed me away from battery :-/

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**TonyP2020** · 29th December 2012, 11:40

12.3V after charging is a little low.
What voltage across the battery with the key held in the start engine position?
You would expect the clicking relay to operate and then drop out repeatly when the key is held in the starting position, but this is a vectra.......
If you have a multimeter it should be easy to check the ohm's reading across the old and new starter motor, just in case both have the same fault.

**Critch** · 29th December 2012, 11:41

Your low battery isn't helping matters 12.3 is less than 20%  Do you a multimeter?  You need to confirm that all the cabling is ok. Did you ask the garage to fit a starter or did you ask them to look at it?

**Critch** · 29th December 2012, 11:48

I apologise for that mess above phone thru a wobbler

12.3v is only 20% charge so after that length of time on charge means battery's got a fault.

but at the same time you need to check full operation of the system

you will require a second person to operate key in crank position while you carry out voltage tests on starter system

**michael_linford** · 29th December 2012, 12:03

I don't have a multimeter, just one of these things that has crocodile clips and a voltage readout.
There aren't any garages open round here until next week, my usual garage is 15 miles away and can't fit me in until the second of Jan.

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**michael_linford** · 29th December 2012, 12:04

Originally Posted by Critch

I apologise for that mess above phone thru a wobbler

12.3v is only 20% charge so after that length of time on charge means battery's got a fault.

but at the same time you need to check full operation of the system

you will require a second person to operate key in crank position while you carry out voltage tests on starter system

No worries bud!

Father in law is coming round after lunch, will see if he has a multimeter.

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**Critch** · 29th December 2012, 12:21

If he does you need to confirm what voltage you have on the large wire at back of starter an on the smaller solenoid wire (key in crank position)

also check voltage on earth side.

You can then put you red multimeter lead on starter wire and black on batt pos. this will then give you the read out voltage dropped in the positive side of the circuit.( remember key need to be in crank position for tests- needs a load. No load means no current flow. No current flow)