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Thread: Circuit board removal 2 button flip key fob Vectra C

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    Default Circuit board removal 2 button flip key fob Vectra C

    Can anyone give the steps required to split the key fob case to get at the remote/immobiliser circuit board? So far all I have managed to do is split the case to get at the battery.

    Is it glued, screwed, clipped together or what ? In other posts on the net it suggests something might be under the vauxhall logo.

    Thanks for your help on this one.

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    Glued / thermal bonded together.

    You'll have to cut it.

    http://www.yellowdawg.co.uk/flipkey/Untitled-1.html

    .

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    Big Dave,

    I managed it without cutting (see below). But this is at your own risk if you follow it, as I guess you could easily crack the plastic case, or put the screwdriver in too far somewhere and destroy the PCB and so on, so its tricky and really it's very judicious brute force which is required.

    Ok brute force was required, at the end where the metal arch is (where you attach it to a key ring) I put a smallish (normal not jewellers) flat-bladed screwdriver in. There's a narrow lip on the plastic case behind that metal ring, which is on the side that the metal bit is not attached to (oh before I did the following I put hand pressure on the case a few times using that metal ring to lever against the rest of the case and it creaked and gave a bit). By doing this the case parted a little bit more. Then I put the screwdriver in the gap at the side of the flip key hole, and levered here. By repeating a shallow lever at different points round the case eventually it fell in half. What you have on one half is continuous trenchlike slot and on the other half a male plastic 'wall' that fits in that slot. Examining the slot and the 'wall' you could see that a very small amount of glue must have been placed at a few points in the slot (or on top of the male wall).

    Inside I found the transponder chip PCF7946AT made by Philips

    http://www.immobilisers.co.uk/media/file/pcf7946-pp.pdf

    Bad news is that even if you are nifty with surface mount devices not only is it soldered in place, but its also glued.

    The chip is an EEPROM - Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory

    In the case of the Philips chip it has EEPROM read/write in cipher mode and EEPROM read/write protection capability.

    I guess that's where the advice arises with old keys from a different car that you need to know the security pass number relating to the prevuious car it was paired to in order to pair it to a new car.

    Anyway assuming you can remove the chip without destroying the PCB, the replacement virgin chips are for sale either on Ebay, or from here

    http://www.dalbani.co.uk/catalogue/p...s.php?id=35335

    When you add in postage etc. it comes to about £13 to £14 for the chip.

    Another guy on Ebay can cut a new blade either from a photo or the key's security code Z**** in the car pass.

    So total cost ~£10 for an old key, £13.60 for a new chip, £10 for a new blade and somebody with software to pair the key up to your car . If you buy the cheapo gizmo yourself that seems to be about £20.

    The alternative is a new key from the dealer guaranteed to work at £120
    Last edited by pedro26; 21st December 2012 at 12:31.

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    After some digging at using a magnifier the glue isn't glue but a soft plasticy substance, so avoiding the tracks I scraped it off.

    Here's one way to remove SMDs

    http://www.infidigm.net/articles/solder/#desoldering

    But looking at this circuit perhaps you can somehow snip off each leg of the IC then de-solder the legs one by one

    soldering another guide

    http://www.infidigm.net/articles/solder/#pinbypin

    Warning if you get the IC too hot then you've fried it.
    Last edited by pedro26; 21st December 2012 at 13:56.

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    Pedro, I may be wrong, but I don't think it is a case of just replacing the chip with one that has never been programmed before, I understand the chip needs some minimal Vauxhall coding to make key programmers and other devices see it as a new GM key fob waiting to be programmed.
    I can let you have details of an auto locksmith who will replace the chip onto the circuit board ready for a suitable GM keyprogrammer for around £15.
    Also you can get a replacement fob case on ebay for a few pounds if you damage the original while taking it apart.
    As said, after that, a new blade cut to code, and a suitable gadget plugged into your car, and hey presto, a new key in seconds

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    Thanks Woodpeck, please send me the deatils, but darn it I've already ordered the virgin chip, is the guy's service supply and replace the chip ? I have an EEPROM programmer, but its not for configured for SMD devices, plus I wouldn't know how to program for this application. That was for doing radio control chips.

    I don't recommend this as the way to remove the transponder chip, but as I was using a pair of tweezers to get the plasticy gunk out from behind the one of the IC legs, the leg actually broke free of its solder pad (the tweezers are slightly special, they are curved sideways and come to a pretty fine point). So I rested the curved end of the tweezers on top of that leg (sort of pushing back down on to the PCB) whilst hooking one of the tweezer tips under the adjacent IC leg. On levering up that next leg the solder broke & that popped off also. Another 12 similar leverings later and the chip was free. I think I was lucky all the pads and tracks were undamaged by this crude method. However because of previous experiences (see below) I was using minimal force to do this.

    NB On other circuits I have had pads and tracks part company with the PCB when roughly handled, then its knackered and the best you can hope for is a crude repair to the track and superglue for the pad.

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    No problem, I'll send you the info by PM as I don't want to upset anyone by naming names etc.
    Yes, the last time I had a price for this, I had to send off the fob and it was returned "virginised" 2 days later.
    Cost at that time all in was £15 but it may have changed.
    Let me know how you get on m8.
    BTW he is an ok and genuine guy and I have recommended him to others who have been as equally pleased

    Cheers

    Woody
    Last edited by Woody; 21st December 2012 at 16:36.

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